Thailand 2022

Our Itinerary

16th JuneThursNewcastle to Sydney
17th JuneFriSydney to Bangkok
18th JuneSatBangkok
19th JuneSunBangkok to Lampang
20th JuneMonLampang to Chiang Mai
21st JuneTuesChiang Mai to Chiang Dao
22nd JuneWedChiang Dao to Thaton
23rd JuneThursThaton to Chiang Rai
24th JuneFriChiang Rai
25th JuneSatChiang Rai to Bangkok
26th JuneSunBangkok
27th JuneMonBangkok to Sydney

Thursday 16th June, 2022          

 Newcastle to Sydney

Mark is working today but it’s my day off which is lucky as I can do last-minute packing. Lauren drives us to Broadmeadow station at two o’clock to catch the 2.18 pm train before she picks the dollies up from school. We’re lucky to get the XPT train to Sydney’s Central Station – only $15 each – where we find the escalator to take us down to the light rail and then on to Wynyard. From here we walk to the old Grand Hotel, very cheap tonight at only $94. Even though we have a shared bathroom we have a very cute room – the hotel has been recently redecorated by the Merivale Group. 

On the top floor we have a drink in the Knot Bar then walk down to Circular Quay to see Vivid – it’s busily exciting down here and a clear still night. We wander through the Rocks then to the Bridge where all the buildings are lit up with coloured lights, projections and installations. Especially impressive is the Opera House with changing aboriginal art work every few minutes. 

Dinner is pork rolls and chips (horrible) from one of the many street stalls then we head back to the Grand Hotel after a couple of hours. More drinks at the very busy Knot Bar – good people watching – before an early night.

Friday 17th June, 2022          

 Sydney to Bangkok

Our alarm wakes us at 5:30 am then we catch an Uber ($36) to the International Airport because there are no trains running this early. At the check-in counter we show our Thai Pass and travel insurance, get bag labels and check them in. That over with, we have our usual McDonald’s which takes an hour to order because there’s so many people here. We hang out on comfy lounge chairs by the window to watch planes coming and going.

We’re very excited to be flying international for the first time in three years after being locked in with Covid although it’s still mandatory to wear masks, to be double vaxed and to carry the Thai Pass. We buy duty free Bacardi then Mark splurges on an underwater watch – Citizen for $450. 

We board on time at 9:15 am but then sit on the plane for forty five minutes waiting for connecting passages. The plane already looks full but eventually fifty more people board. This means every seat is taken so no luck with our usual spare seat in the middle this time. We watch movies – The House of Gucci, The Duke, Blind Ambition and After Love – have lunch, snacks and afternoon tea but it still feels a very loooong  flight although only the usual nine and a half hours. 

Finally at Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport we don’t know what to expect as we’ve been told that it could take ages to get through. Some sites say that there is a rule that you have to stay in a hotel close to the airport until your Thai Pass is accepted but instead we show our Thai pass, go through immigration and we’re done within an hour. 

Outside is hot and steamy as usual which we always love. We catch a taxi to Banglamphu $36 and head straight to Villa Cha Cha where we’ve stayed before. It’s an atmospheric guesthouse right on Thanon Rambutri and only $24. Our room is pleasant, decorated Thai style with an aqua tiled bathroom and even a pool downstairs. We change straight into our thongs and summer clothes and head out into the street which is dark by now. 

As we expected, Covid has changed things. The streets are much quieter than they have ever been since we started coming here 25 years ago and only a few places are open along Thanon Rambutri compared to the string of cafes and bars on either side that are usually buzzing.

We walk down to Soi Rambutri and are thrilled to see that Pink is open. Pink is our favourite massage place in all of Bangkok, all the world actually. We have welcome-back cuddles from the girls and promise to come back after we have something to eat.  Dinner is in the laneway opposite Madam Masur’s – beers, margaritas, satay chicken, chicken wings and Tom Yum Goon. Heaven to be back in our beloved Bangkok. 

Back at Pink, we have foot and leg massages on laid-back chairs in the laneway with On and Bong. All the girls are happy as Pink only re-opened two weeks ago after closing because of Covid for the last two and a half years. We drink beers and margaritas then walk to the bar around the corner.  

This is packed with young Thai people – no Western tourists at all which was always the case before Covid. I have an Angel cocktail for Angie but it taste like shit – ha ha, Ange. Walking back to Thanon Rambutri, a guy is playing guitar and singing in a Bob Marley bar but we only have one drink then sit around the pool at Villa Cha Cha. After a swim we’re in bed by 10 o’clock. A great time already. 

Saturday 18th June, 2022          


At 6.30am I’m out looking to buy water and end up with fresh orange juice and fresh passionfruit juice squeezed right on the sidewalk. I notice that all the locals are wearing masks and I need to wear a mask as well before entering the 711 to buy water. I don’t have one on me but a kind lady outside selling Thai desserts hands me one – I give her 30 Baht.

Back in the room we both have showers and book an overnight train for tonight at the Villa Cha Cha desk. The girl is so sweet “thank you for coming back to Thailand”, she says. Like the girls from Pink, she’s only been working back here for a month after two and a half years of no work at all. While we’re here we also get her to book a room at Baan Boo Loo in Chiang Mai for the 20th.

Now we want to check out Khao San Road and walking around the corner opposite the temple we find it absolutely dead, literally a ghost town. We can’t stand to stay so find a small laneway instead and order prawn Pad Thai sitting at plastic tables on the footpath – our favourite thing to do in Thailand.

From here we pass Lackshimi House where we stayed last time when we were on our way to Myanmar in 2019. 

The humidity and heat are over the top as always so we make our way to the temple to sit in the cool prayer hall sitting in front of the big Buddha. In outer halls, monks are reciting lessons in Sanskrit and white robed nuns with shaven heads prepare food in the outdoor kitchen.

Later we climb the Drum Tower then walk through to Soi Rambutri via the back entrance of the temple. To cool down, we buy fresh lime sodas before having one-hour oil massages upstairs at Pink with On and Bong – fantastic basic atmosphere up here with little wonkey windows overlooking the soi and the temple. Next we both have pedicures then a manicure for me with Ni.

Even though it’s sweltering hot we decide to go for a walk through Banglamphu where we come across a street cart near the Fort – chicken drumsticks plus fresh orange and passionfruit juices once again.

Back at Villa Cha Cha we sit next to the pool but soon leave after listening to a pain-in-the-arse American arguing and swearing at a Thai girl and her friends – they’re all drunk. Upstairs we have a nanna nap in the air conditioning then up at 3:30pm for a swim.

Next we wander around to Pink for me to have my hair washed and blow dried (big mistake) while Mark buys T-shirts before both having lime sodas plus fresh fruit and papaya salad.

Now we head back to our room to pack, check out and catch a tuktuk to Hualampong Station. Hualampong will be closed next year when the horrible new Bang Sue Grand Station is supposed to be finished. This is to service the high speed trains which we never want to catch – much prefer the dear old rattlers.

Mark buys food upstairs on a mezzanine level overlooking all the action including my favourite – groups of monks. Before boarding we eat ham and cheese croissants and lovely blueberry smoothies. On the train at 7 o’clock, our bunks have already been made up. The carriage is nearly empty as no Western tourists again. We’re both in bed by 8 o’clock and have a great sleep after many stops as the train leaves Bangkok. The air conditioning is a bit cool at times but lots of blankets keep us cozy.

Sunday 19th June, 2022          

Bangkok to Lampang

I’m awake at 5:30 am and love watching the countryside go by in this soft early morning light. I wake Mark at 6 o’clock when we pack, ready to pull into Lampang Station fifteen minutes later. We’re the only ones getting off the train which goes straight through to Chiang Mai where most passengers will disembark.

In the carpark outside, we find a songthaew to take us to the Riverside Guesthouse where a friendly girl opens the gate and shows us two rooms – we take the cheaper one for only $40. We prefer it anyway as it’s upstairs overlooking the laneway with bougainvillea and pretty teak houses opposite. Two walls are lined with multi-coloured glass windows and all the furniture is teak as well. 

Downstairs for breakfast, Mark orders conchee then accidentally eats my omelette as well – I’m happy with fresh fruit and tea anyway.

Since it’s Sunday, and early anyway, nothing much will be open just yet so we decide to rest till 10 o’clock. Mark then organises for a horse and cart to meet us out in the laneway at 10:15. This way of getting around town with horse drawn carriages is one of the main reasons I wanted to come to Lampang as it’s unique to this little town in northern Thailand.

Our horse man is a sweetie with a big smile and we set off along the laneway in front of the Riverside guesthouse. We slowly clip clop our way to the first wat of the day, Wat Si Rong Mueang, a Shan teak temple built in 1900. A monk tells us that because it’s completely made of wood we’re not allowed to light candles or incense in case the whole thing goes up in smoke. Inside is very elaborate with a wide richly decorated verandah where we spent quite a while looking all the beautiful decorations.

Wat Si Rong Muang was actually built by Burmese immigrants at the start of the 20th century. They came to Lampang to work in the teak industry and brought with them their own ideas about temple construction – hence the Burmese Shan style.

On the way we’d passed more horse and carts. I think it’s cute that all the other horses are whinnying at our horse. The same thing happens when we enter the grounds of the next place. I say to Mark “look they’re saying hello to each other”. Mark says “no he’s a boy and our’s is a girl” just as I notice the other horse has a massive hard on – gross!!! Our girl must be on heat! 

Past the clock tower we pass more horses with more whinnying and more hard-ons – ha ha. 

Along lovely shaded laneways in the forestry area of Lampang, we pull into the leafy grounds of Baan Louis. Louis was the son of Anna Leonowen who was the British tutor to the children of King Rama IV and became famous as Anna through the musical and movie, The King and I.

As for Louis himself, he became heavily involved in a teak trade which this whole area is known for. In 1905 he founded his own company and so the construction started on Louis House as his own home – completely made of teak, what else?

Back in the cart we make our way along more shady laneways with traditional teak houses on both sides crossing small streams and the wider Rachadapisek Bridge. We visit another pretty wat then head back to the guesthouse. 

As we always like to do when we’re in Asia, we want to hire a motorbike to head out into the countryside by ourselves. Nothing is available at our guesthouse but we’re told there are a few places further along the road where we can hire one. We walk for miles but because it’s Sunday nothing is open so we give up and go back to the Riverside for lunch – club sandwiches and croissants for me and a Thai lunch for Mark. While we think about it, we ask the French lady owner to book a train for us for tomorrow morning to Chiang Mai plus a car to take us to the station as we’ll be leaving very early. We also ring Lauren and the dollies. They tell us that it’s freezing at home! 

Because we’re still a bit jet lagged and it’s sweltering by now we sleep till 3pm under the fan in our room. After cold showers we set out to look for a massage place we’ve heard about but it’s closed as well – Sunday again! 

An upside of it being Sunday though is that the Kad Kongta Night Market is on tonight. It only happens on Saturday and Sunday nights so we’re lucky to be here at the right time. We’re also lucky that the market is being held in the same street as ours. This is Walking Street which just means that it’s blocked off to traffic for the duration of the market. Stalls are already being set up on either side of the road. We stop to wander through a couple of interesting museums and art galleries then have lime sodas at Papa Gallery. Papa sees that I’m overly hot so he hurries over with a fan for each of us. He’s a tiny, trendy local man who makes the pottery himself. The gallery is super trendy as well and even the lime sodas are a work of art – crushed ice over slices of orange and lime and tiny edible flowers – I take photos!  

Really overheating by now, we walk back to the Riverside to sit in the air conditioning then sleep till 6.30pm before heading back up to Walking Street and the night market. 

The street itself is wonderful, lined with lovely century-old wooden shop-houses, a mix of Western, Burmese, Chinese and Thai styles. I’ve read that this was what Chiang Mai was once like. 

Just near the entrance to the market, we hear loud music coming from a wat down a short laneway on the left. Here, six ladies are dancing in ceremonial costume with beaming smiles. After one of the dances finish they call us over to have lots of photos while posing in funny shapes with our arms – so sweet!

By now the market is packed with locals, no Westerners at all. The market is very unique with most things locally made – no wooden frogs, if you know what I mean. 

We walk to the bridge at the end of the market where I buy pants and two tops – all very hilltribe. We both buy chicken drumsticks and Mark has pork skewers and spicy fishcakes. He can’t stop eating – there’s so much fabulous food here. I even buy a bug and eat it – a bucket list thing. Ewwww!! 

Now we go in search of ‘party’ street but seem to walk miles in the darkness until we eventually find a group of bars not far from our own guesthouse. The first bar we come across is very cute, all lined with teak and lots of silk Chinese lanterns hanging from the vaulted ceiling. We choose a cozy corner for drinks and then buy peanuts from a little boy who comes in off the street. The next bar is called the Riverside Bar with a deck overlooking the water. A band is playing behind a huge glass screen, to protect them from Covid we suppose. The first few songs are in Thai but because we’re the only people here and because we’re Westerners they actually play Country Roads, my favourite karaoke song. Thank god I haven’t had enough drinks to get up. I do sing along loudly though. 

The water is mirror calm on the river and the bridge is lit up with coloured lights – Lampang Vivid?? – while rows of fountains dance in front of us. The bar next door has more people but we don’t like the band so we head back to our guest house, falling into bed after a great day. 

Monday 20th June, 2022          

Lampang to Chiang Mai

Our alarm wakes us at 5:30 am before we meet our driver in the laneway fifteen minutes later. He charges 300 Baht because he had to get up so early – okay, fair enough. It’s an absolutely gorgeous morning, warm with a clear blue sky and quiet streets.

Outside the station is lovely. We sit at a local lady’s street cart in the shade and buy coffee and Chinese tea. I ask what she has to eat and she points to an egg. I think it might be hard boiled but I get a raw egg swimming in a cup of something hot and milky. She shows me how to add salt and pepper and soy – yuck, still can’t eat it. From another cart, Mark buys pork skewers which are much more edible. An old monk in orange robes is standing behind us holding his alms bowl but soon leaves when none of the stallholders give him anything to eat. They’ve probably already given heaps of food to other old dears. 

Later we walk over to the station, looking pretty with topiary trees and other plants. Again we’re the only people here. Lampang is definitely not on the tourist trail. 

The Bangkok to Chiang Mai train arrives at 6:40 am and we’re soon chugging through the open countryside. Today we have long padded bench seats facing each other and wide open windows. This is always our favourite thing about train travel in Thailand.

The trip to Chiang Mai will take about two hours passing rice paddies, banana trees, small villages, a big white Buddha on a distant hill and lots of small stations where ladies hop on selling roast chicken, sticky rice and water.

Passing through the Khintan Tunnel, we find Mark’s favourite railway station that we saw on our way back from Chiang Mai four years ago. Half an hour before we reach Chiang Mai we travel through the small town of Lamphun where we might stay on the way back to Bangkok in a week or so.

At 8.45 am we pull into Chiang Mai station and actually see a few young western backpackers get off the train – a good sign. 

A lady who introduces herself as Phun approaches us outside and jumps into the back of a songthaew with us. She tries to sell us tours but we tell her that we’ve been here many times before and have truly seen everything she wants to show us. 

We’re off to Baan Boo Loo, the guest house that we’d booked in Bangkok two days ago. We’d actually tried to book it online through but it said there weren’t any rooms left so we asked the girl at the desk to ring direct and supposedly they do have a room for us – will see! 

Leaving the station we head into the old city surrounded by a moat and even part of the old wall that originally surrounded it. Amongst the little laneways of the old city we finally pull up at Baan Boo Loo. We came across this gorgeous place four years ago on our way back from Laos but at that time they didn’t have any rooms at all so we always vowed to come back again one day.

The only thing is, I feel disoriented because there are two gates facing each other on either side of the laneway and I’m sure last time we entered through the opposite gate to the one which is now being opened for us by a young man in traditional dress.

Apparently this is the smaller part which is now being used because of Covid and less travellers. There’s no disappointment though as it’s just as wonderful as the side we’d seen before. I think I’d describe it as elegantly rustic and full of Thai character. My heart seriously soars. 

Inside the gate, the young man carries our bags – he can’t pull them because the ground is rough pebbles, no crappy cement here. He leads us upstairs to an open-sided pavilion where we meet the lovely female hostess called Lamai and, joy of joys, yes we do have a room! Under a vaulted beamed roof we sit at a long wooden table covered in a woven ethnic cloth surrounded by potted palms and flowers. The young man now brings us fresh juice, iced water, tea and coffee and watermelon while beautiful Thai music plays in the background. Next is chrysanthemum tea – oh my god I’m in heaven! Now we’re shown to our room by Lamai’s brother. “I am Gai” he says and we think “yes you are”! Little cutie!

Our room is downstairs next to a rocky pond filled with goldfish and inside we have wooden floors and ceiling, air conditioning, a huge stand-alone bath, a daybed, a king size bed, a fridge and the whole place dripping in Thai culture. The only downside is a mosquito zapper that keeps scaring the shit out of me so we turn it off. We have hill tribe jackets to wear so we do.

Now we’re ready to take on Chiang Mai so we head off through the alleyways and walk for about a kilometre till we come across a massage place called Calm. This is definitely calm and thankfully also cool because we’re sweltering by now. First we’re given cold tea before having our feet washed and changing into loose tops and pants. We both have an excellent massage for 350 Baht each which is about $14 – not so cheap here. Before leaving they give us green tea and an unusual Thai sweet – strangely it’s coloured grey and tastes smoky. 

Off now to Wororot Market in a tuktuk. Wororot is the most well-known and biggest market in northern Thailand. It’s huge and sells everything from local food to ceramics, flowers, embroidery and clothing. Besides this one part of the alleyway market is set up with Hmong and Chinese local products and we even come across a small Chinese temple. 

At each entrance a guard sits to take our temperature and make sure that we wear a mask before going inside. In the vast food hall we sit at a stall where I order fish balls in noodles and Mark orders something indescribable – what the hell is he eating now??!! We also buy an interesting cold blackberry drink. 

I’m looking for a straw hat but no luck although I do buy two necklaces. In the seafood section we watch live fish and tiny turtles swimming around in plastic buckets, pink eggs and very stinky dried fish. 

There’s a very weird toilet in here – I pay 4 Baht then pass through a hot pink roundabout gate in a cage. Once inside it’s squat toilets only – my first experience for this trip.

From here we catch a tuktuk to the bus station to ask about getting to Chiang Dao tomorrow. Apparently we just turn up in the morning and buy our tickets then.

For now we want to see the forest temple that Lauren and I had visited in 2010. Mark didn’t come that day because he’d been sick and stayed in the room. So, in the same tuktuk we drive twenty minutes out of town to Wat Umong where we jump out at the forest entrance. 

Wat Umong is a 700 year old Buddhist temple set within fifteen acres of woodland. Up and down pathways we pass the monastery then come across a large pond where we feed ducks, turtles and hideous catfish. Swarms of pigeons are trying to pinch the fish food and are scaring a group of squealing Thai tourists. Next we explore the ancient tunnels that run beneath the Chedi. The story goes that the tunnels were built to keep a crazy old monk occupied so he wouldn’t keep running away. Apparently true.  

Back in Chiang Mai, we look for Johns Place, our old favourite and a local institution. Sadly it’s gone – probably another victim of Covid. Instead we buy ice creams and drinks from the 711 then walk back to Baan Boo Loo. We hang out here till 6.30pm and have a cool bath together in our luxurious bathtub.

Walking back down to the main street we find a tuktuk to take us to the night market. This is a great disappointment – another victim of Covid.  All that’s left at the moment it’s just a few stalls in the street. I do find a straw hat though and we buy toy kittens on blankets for the dollies.

Ready for alcohol, we take a tuktuk back to the bar area that we discovered a few years ago with Frank from Holland who’d been on our longtail boat in northern Laos. 

Loi Kron Road is the touristy, girly bar area with strings of bars and cafes on both sides of the narrow road. It seems innocent enough on the outside and we just want a drink anyway. In one bar we buy chicken wings and spring rolls while Mark has a beer. One of the girls working here is making everyone laugh by mimicking a guy who’d been drunk earlier. As usual a creepy pervert is lurking around the girls and lots more are walking past – all ugly old bald expats.

Crossing to the tiny bar opposite, we chat with three ladies and ‘woohoo’ they sell Bacardi – although I’ve brought my own as usual. Country music is playing and when Alan Jackson’s “Remember When” comes on it makes me sad. I actually get very drunk stumbling all over the place Mark tells me later – not a great look for an almost 70 year granny. Oh well! Wobble to bed but can’t sleep. 

Tuesday 21st June, 2022           

Chiang Mai to Chiang Dao

This morning where off to Chiang Dao which is the exciting part of our trip because it’s somewhere we’ve never been before and part of the loop we plan to do which will bring us back to Chiang Mai in a week’s time. That’s the rough plan anyway.

At 6:30 we’re up to shower, pack and head upstairs for breakfast in Baan Boo Loo’s stunning dining area. How do I describe this place? It’s really something special. Overhung with trees, vines and plants we feel like we’re in our own treehouse. Everything is made of wood or other natural materials – you won’t find any plastic here!  Hot breakfast food is offered in a row of clay pots displayed on a long antique carved cupboard. Ceramic jars of all shapes and sizes hold dried purple and white flowers while vignettes of Thai carvings, alms bowls, bronze and brass wear fill the space with atmosphere. To top it off, all the crockery is celadron, that wonderful pale green that’s always been my favourite ceramic. 

Breakfast is warm croissants, chrysanthemum tea, coffee, watermelon and fresh pineapple. Gai rings for a tuktuk driver to pick us up in the laneway. It’s a beautiful morning once again with the sun shining through the trees overhanging the gate. A quick drive to the bus station and we soon have our tickets on the Chiang Mai to Thaton bus which will drop us off in Chiang Dao on the way.

The bus leaves at 8 o’clock on the dot with everyone wearing masks – we even have monks up the back and I sneak photos. The best thing about these old buses to out-of-the-way places is that there’s no air conditioning so, once again, we have open windows. We pass lots of small towns until the last forty minutes or so where it’s just open rice paddies and mountains ahead. It’s great to be out of the city. 

At 10 o’clock we arrive in Chiang Dao which is basically just one long street with businesses and shops on either side – nothing too appealing here but we knew that all the gorgeous stuff is just out of town. What we have lucked on, is that it’s the Tuesday Morning Market so getting off the bus we store our bags and then walk up to the market.

It’s busy as all local markets are and we stalk some hill tribe ladies in traditional dress.  We hope to see more hill tribes further north. I buy a singlet top but there’s nothing much else I’m interested in. Mark again buys something indescribable to eat – balls of something on a stick which he burps up for the rest of the day. 

Back at the bus station, the sweet guy on the desk rings Nest Guesthouse for us – this gets good reviews on but there’s no answer – “you have no booking?”,  he says – “no, but we’ll just go there anyway” – he’s confused! 

While we wait, Mark buys a steamed bun while I buy a watermelon ice block and keep myself occupied by checking out an old monk who seems to be lost. Soon a tiny smiling man arrives and introduces himself as Ton. He’s very proud of his bright yellow songthaew. Throwing all our gear into the back we bounce along rough tracks for a few kilometres. Even on this short distance Ton stops four times to jump out and run around the back to ask us a question – do we want to stay here, do we want to go there? – so sweet!

Soon we turn onto a paved road for a few kilometres then onto another small road leading into the jungle. Unfortunately we find that Nest is now only open on weekends because of Covid so Ton suggests we try Marlee’s Nature Bungalows and we’re so glad he did. It’s set in a peaceful tropical garden at the base of Doi Chang Dao, Thailand’s third highest mountain.

It’s a family run business with Marlee herself coming out to greet us with open arms and a beaming smile. We never cease to be amazed by how friendly and genuine Thai people are.

Marlee give us a tour of the gardens on the way to show us two bungalows. We choose the 1000 Baht (AUD$40 a night) the biggest one – it’s upstairs with a balcony all-round and lovely views of the thick jungle beneath. She proudly shows us all the colourful plants she’s grown as well as lots of orchids, “my husband” she says. 

We’ve already arranged with Ton to spend the rest of the afternoon with him visiting all the local sites so we leave straight away.

First is Chiang Dao Cave only a few hundred metres from Marlee’s along a dirt track. The complex also includes Wat Chiang Dao (not a lot of imagination naming things around here) plus a pavilion and other outer buildings. At the entrance near a pretty pond, we feed the temple catfish then pay 55 Baht each to visit the cave because this is a national park. Masks must be worn, so the skeleton at the entrance tells us – a skeleton we suppose to scare the Covid pants off everyone! The cave is large and impressive with Buddha statues plus stalagmites and stalactites. Back outside behind the new wat we find the ruins of earlier temples almost swallowed up by the jungle vegetation. 

The rain has started but it’s fun riding in the back of the songthaew with the tropical rain pouring down around us. Later Ton stops for lunch on the main road – a tuna salad for me and Tom Yum for Mark. The heat and humidity is over the top so we have two soda waters each plus a strawberry shake and a pineapple shake. 

From here it’s a forty minute drive to Srisungwan Waterfalls. The rain has stopped by now so we make our way through the forest down to the first waterfall. I wear a sarong to cover my swimmers then we both make our way to the bottom of the falls before following Ton down to level four for another swim.

Heading fifteen minutes back towards Chiang Dao, we stop at Pong Arne Hot Springs situated in a pretty park. The natural hot springs are super hot so we don’t stay in too long and follow it up with a cold shower – once more we’re the only ones here. Covid is really affecting this area badly.

Now we’re not sure what else is on the agenda but Ton wants to keep taking us to more and more places. He points to a temple on the top of a hill. At first we say no but he talks us into it. Actually it’s really worth it with a Burmese paya and golden rock just like the huge one we saw in Myanmar last year. The views are spectacular as we can see the whole surrounding countryside plus Doi Chiang Dao far into the distance. 

Before winding our way back down the mountain, Ton talks Mark into sitting in the front cabin with him – I think he wants someone to talk to – I’d rather stay in the back – I hate air conditioning. In the first town we come to, Ton pulls over to chat with some friends then because it’s so hot we buy drinks and ice creams for us all. Just when we think we’re on our way back home he turns off the road again to stop at King Nerasuan Stupa in Mueang Ngai village. The stupa was built by the villagers to honour the King’s victory over the Burmese in 1604. Okay, we get that but what’s with all the roosters? Some say that it’s because he won Ayutthaya’s freedom from the Prince of Burma in a single cockfight but in Thailand the rooster also symbolises wealth and good fortune so we don’t know. Anyway there’s roosters everywhere – thousands of big ones, little ones and giant ones. 

I’m melting by now so I agree to sit in the front with Mark and Ton. Ton hasn’t drawn breath for hours and even now while he’s driving he’s reading out the doctor’s notes about his appointment in Chiang Mai tomorrow. 

We say “let’s get back to Marlee’s” – over it by now. “You want to go top of mountain?” Ton asks hopefully making one last ditch effort to keep going. “Nooo!” 

Then not far from Marlee’s we see an elephant camp and ask if we can go tomorrow. Ton says he’ll organise something for the morning before we catch the bus to Thaton. This will be fantastic as we thought we’d miss out on elephant riding this trip. 

We spend the afternoon resting in our room under the fan – no aircon here – listening to the rain falling on our roof. It stops about 6.30pm so we set off to find a restaurant somewhere near here that Marlee has recommended. She doesn’t have enough guests at the moment to make it worth her while to cook. She gives us directions to Jin’s place which is about a ten minute walk through the forest.

With it being just on dark this is all very lovely except for a bunch of scary barking dogs that chase us down the road – hate dogs! There’s nothing else around here just forest and a couple of odd places like Marlee’s, Jin’s and a bar not far away. 

Jin’s is run by Jin and her western husband John. They’re both in a flap with seven customers! Ha ha. Jin is in the kitchen trying to cook three pizzas and pops out every now and again wearing a white coat and a tall white chef’s hat while John is stressing and sweating like a pig – Fawlty Towers eat your heart out. Despite the long menu John tells us we can only have pizza then later on announces that we can have ravioli – whatever, just give us something! This is hilarious then becomes even funnier as more people turn up in cars. There’s nowhere else to eat around here. John turns them away. Meanwhile we chat with a friendly Pommy guy with his Thai girlfriend who can’t believe the circus around us either.

Of course I’ve brought along my Bacardi but they don’t have Coke – surprise, surprise – so I end up having a wine. I only have a couple of sips and give the rest to Mark. If the service and food are a disaster, the atmosphere isn’t. Jin’s sits at the bottom of a tree covered cliff face and we’re sitting in the garden under the stars on this hot still night.

After dinner we walk down the road to a place called Cave Bar. And guess what – they have Bacardi and Coke! A pretty Thai girl is serving and we spent an hour talking to her and to Robert and Elizabeth from Seattle. We have so much in common it’s a shame we’re moving on in the morning.

With a busy day tomorrow we head home walking back through the pitch dark forest. Mark finds a huge stick to fight off the dogs. I’m almost wetting my pants laughing, with the horrible dogs still following and barking like maniacs.

As we pass Jin’s we find her out the front directing traffic in her cook’s hat – there’s only one car and no traffic on the road anyway – so funny – you had to be there. Back at Marlee’s we sit on our verandah for more drinks that we don’t need.  More pants wetting as Mark does a nudie run through the bushes below – ha ha. A fantastic day!  

Wednesday 22nd June, 2022          

Chiang Dao to Thaton

Waking again at 7:30am to another perfect day we can hear birds singing and those funny insects that sound like little chainsaws. Humid already, Mark has a dip in the pool but I’m busy getting ready. Breakfast is in the timber-lined dining area which is open on all sides and decorated with a Buddha statue and fountain. We’re the only guests. 

Marlee comes out to talk to us. She brings her home-made bread and mango jam, scrambled eggs, orange juice plus tea and coffee. Marlee is married to Kurt from Switzerland and has one son studying in New Zealand. They haven’t seen him for three years because of Covid. 

She gives us the local gossip. Poor Ton is sick because of stress because he hasn’t any money due to Covid. He’s not married and lives by himself and yet he’s always laughing and smiling – brave little man. On a funnier side she then tells us that Jin “angry when many customers” then “she very stress – go south for two months but still angry”. Hard not to laugh! 

Marlee is such a sweetheart and we become Facebook friends. We’ve already packed so Ton picks us up at 8:30. We give a warm goodbye to Marlee and Kurt before being waved off. The elephant camp is only fifteen minutes away. At the moment they only have two girls, Boona and Hona, and we meet their mahouts and another man who seems to be the camp owner. To reach the basket on the elephant’s back we climb a ladder to a wooden platform. As we set off the heat is unbearable with zero shade. But here comes Ton running after us with an umbrella, yelling out “hot sun, hot sun!”

I don’t know what we’d have done without it. Boona plods along with us on her back for about forty minutes passing cultivated fields, village houses and ponds with a standing Buddha and a  golden paya in the distance and Doi Chiang Dao rising up behind. Boona picks grass to eat on the way and reaches back with her trunk to take the little bananas that we give her. As we return to Ton’s songthaew, we see Hona throwing dirt all over herself. After photos taken with both of them and feeding them more bananas, we’re ready to leave for the bus station.

But typically, Ton drives us straight to the standing Buddha – there’s always a side track – before dropping us at the Chiang Dao. Goodbye little Ton, we hope you’re not too unwell and hope business picks up for you soon. We pay him well.

At the bus station we talk to the same friendly guy that we met yesterday. He tells us that there’s a bus to Thaton at 12 o’clock but we can catch the 11am bus to Fang then get a songthaew to Thaton from there. This will save us hanging around here for an hour plus give us a bit of time to check out Fang.

In the meantime, Mark walks back up to the market to buy pineapple (no burpy balls on sticks please, darling) while I lie on a bench with my head on our pillow bag and watch monks walking past – I’m more than happy. 

The Chiang Mai / Fang bus arrives right on time at 11 am. We manage to get a window seat each, open windows of course, and again we pass through small towns over winding mountain roads loving the green, green vegetation, temples and schools until we arrive at Fang one and a half hours later.

Here, excited motorcycle taxi drivers are ready to whisk us away to the market on the other side of town. We jump on the back of a bike each while the drivers balance our big packs across their knees. Dangerous? Hell yes, but great fun! We haven’t done this motorcycle taxi thing for years and we love passing each other through town.

The minute we pull into the market these funny guys thrown our packs straight into the back of a waiting songthaew which takes off almost before we can get our bums inside. So much for having time to check out Fang! Ha ha.

We have three local ladies in the back with us. They all have mountains of bags filled with things that they’ve obviously picked up from the market. We smile and wave but because we all have to wear masks it’s a bit hard to make friends. At least there’s not the usual waiting around when we have to be full to bursting before we can leave. Wrong! 

We only drive a few hundred metres and stop again in the middle of town. Two more ladies finally turn up then we only wait another half an hour before eventually setting off. We’re kept amused on the half hour trip by one of the ladies who never stops talking at the top of her voice even though we can’t understand a word she says. 

In Thaton we’re dropped off in the main street but really have no idea where we are or where to stay. The first thing we need is a toilet and something to eat so we find a nice little cafe run by a friendly lady called Joy. She only has one tooth. After using the squat toilets, we order chicken with fried noodles and lime sodas. Joy is a good cook and speaks good English as well. Luckily she has Wi-Fi so we use it to look up and decide to stay in a resort tonight. Very unlike us but there doesn’t seem to be anywhere very interesting around here otherwise.

Joy says “I ring hotel – you pack – you buy water”. Ha ha, she’s very bossy. Soon a truck arrives to take us to the Maekok River Village Resort where we can get a bungalow for only 1500 Baht or AUD$60. It’s on the opposite side of the Kok River so we cross the Thaton Bridge, prettily overlooked by a hill covered in palms and golden temples. We find the resort set in flowering gardens and trees with an arched bridge spanning a small pond. Our bungalow is five star with a verandah that walks straight out to the pond and the pool beside us. Mark goes for a walk to check out the grounds then we both have a swim.

We’ve been told that we’re the only ones here again. The resort has just reopened after a couple years of Covid shut down and they’re hoping that once the Thailand Pass finishes in the next few weeks that tourists will start to turn up – so many places doing it tough. It’s a problem even in these big resorts because they hire local people like the young girl on the desk who said that she had to go back to her village and work in the fields and has only just got her job back. 

At 3:30pm a massage lady from the village comes to our room who we’d organised from the front desk. Mark has a one hour Thai massage and I have a head and shoulders. All good but never really love having massages in our rooms – no atmosphere.

Our original plan was to head further north to Mae Salong and then do a loop to Chiang Mai stopping at Chang Rai on the way. But if we do this we’ll miss out on the four hour boat trip from Thaton direct to Chang Rai and, reading up on Mae Salong, I’m not sure if it’s worth the extra two days of travelling. At the check-in desk we’re told that there is no public boat tomorrow to Chiang Rai but we can hire a longtail for ourselves for 2200 Baht or AUD$90 so we’ll take it. We’re a huge fan of these river trips in Asia.

Back in the room we ring Lauren and then the dollies who are staying with Josh tonight so Lauren can go to work tomorrow. After a rest we get dressed in our posh clothes – I’m wearing my new $7 hilltribe top (very posh!!) and head over to the restaurant built over another big pond. Because we’re the only ones here we can have whatever table we want and sit overlooking the water where hungry fish are waiting below. I order a tuna salad while Mark has chicken soup and some spicy Thai dish. There are beers available for him but no Coke for me so I just settle with soda water and decide to have a no drinking night – my liver needs a rest anyway! The food is good which we eat while watching a bright pink sunset across the river – very romantic! 

Because I can’t drink and there’s nothing else to do anyway we head back to the room at 8:30. Mark has a few beers in bed then we both sleep well with air conditioning for a change. 

Thursday 23rd June, 2022          

Thaton to Chiang Rai

By 7.30am we’ve packed, showered and having breakfast back in the restaurant. This is the usual tea, coffee, juice, watermelon, pineapple, toast with home-made orange and mango jam and scrambled eggs – we feed the fish our leftovers. 

We follow a couple of the staff who take our bags on trolleys down to the river. Our captain is Tun (not Ton like our little mate from yesterday). We’re the only ones in our longtail and leave at 8:30am – hot under a cloudy sky but it looks like it’ll fine up soon. At this early hour it’s even a little bit cool on the river as we get moving.

Apparently, the public ferry isn’t running at the moment because it’s the dry season from May to July and the river levels are too low – no problem, though, for a longtail boat. Like the wonderful river trips we did in northern Laos a few years ago, this is another experience of a lifetime. 

We fly past haystacks, pagodas on a hill, sandmining, fisherman in the shallows and stands of bamboo growing all over the hills. The bamboo looks so pretty from this distance – soft and feathery. The sun has come out by now so colours are more vibrant – blue skies and brilliant green vegetation. 

As we round each bend, mountains appear ahead while we navigate the many rapids and slow down as the river narrows in places. Tiny huts appear on steep hills, small villages and towns, bamboo rafts pulled up onto the banks and banana trees. 

We’re surprised when Tun eventually pulls into the riverbank. He points to an overgrown dirt track leading uphill. We guess that this where we’ll hide in the bushes for a weewee stop. 

But, wow, we’ve walked  into a real bucket list surprise that’s come completely out of the blue. We’re actually in a hill tribe village – a real hill tribe village with no tourists at all! There’s not many villagers around, just a few little boys and a lady hanging embroidered fabrics on a line to fence off her garden. The timber homes are all weathered grey and built on stilts with corrugated roofs and dogs scratching around underneath as well as chickens and little baby chicks. Three little kids come giggling up to us, one proudly producing a baby bird that he’s cradling in his hands.  Mark takes a video and plays it back to them – great excitement! On a real high, we head back down the path to the river. 

Tun starts the boat up again and we’re soon on our way passing more fishermen, water buffalo and cows grazing by the river bank.

After an hour we stop again. Now we’ll change boats with another man who’ll take us from here to Chang Rai. We wave goodbye to Tun who again points to a village sitting above the riverbank – not a hill tribe village this time but a small place with a few cafes and shops and, best of all, there are elephants! We don’t have time for a ride this morning so we just buy bags of fruit and bamboo for 25 Baht and go round to feed each one. There’s about six of them here in grassy enclosures fenced off with bamboo. It’s a lovely setting but we’re starting to wonder about this elephant riding thing and whether it’s the right thing to do – probably not but they ARE fucking huge so does it really matter if someone sits on their back for half an hour? At least they’re getting looked after – that’s my story anyway. 

Just as we’re about to leave and head back down to the water, we stop to buy a drink at a little open-air shop. On the wall we see pictures of longneck women so I ask the owner who shows us some huts about 20 m away. An old lady wearing brass neck rings comes towards us and for 300Baht she takes us inside the tall fence that surrounds the village. Inside is a circle of bamboo and thatched huts where longneck women are weaving in their traditional way on their verandahs. Apparently they moved these villages a few years ago from down near Chiang Mai to up here in the less populated north. We can’t get away without having photos taken with fake brass rings around my neck which I’m not too happy about – it feels wrong but maybe this is how they make money to live – complicated because I know the dangers of putting our Western opinions on other cultures. It’s nice to sit with the girls though and I make up for the neck ring thing by buying brass rings (finger), bracelets, a scarf and a fridge magnet. 

Down at the river we change boats, another longtail and meet our new captain called Mr Zaw. The trip takes only forty minutes to Chang Rai when we pull into a pretty bank overhung with trees which is much nicer than a wharf which we’d expected. We carry our bags up the bank, well Mark does anyway, and ask a man hanging around for a lift into town. We haven’t booked anywhere so he just drives us to the backpacker area in Jetyod Road where we hang out in a rustic restaurant to have lunch.

We chat with the owner and her grandkids then I have chicken soup with warm bread and Mark has a papaya salad and we both have soda waters. We really like this backpacker area with lots of cafes and bars lining Jetyod Street.

Now it’s time to look for somewhere to stay so we walk down towards the temple to look at a few guesthouses but most of them are fan-only and the temperature has soared so we book into the air conditioned Orchid House for only 400 Baht AUD $16. After an afternoon rest we find a little massage place nearby but it’s the worst massage ever as we pay for an hour but only get 30 minutes. The girls are bored stiff and just seem to want to get back on their phones. I have a shower but Mark isn’t even offered one – he tells them how pathetic this place is and chucks them 500baht instead of the 600 they want – they’re lucky to get that! 

On dark we walk to the night market. There aren’t many stalls as we’ve come to expect during these Covid times. Mark does manage to buy a silk shirt for 300Baht – he looks gorgeous, of course. 

Back around in Jetyod Street we drink at O’Kane’s Irish Bar ordering a bacon and cheese baguette before walking down to the Clocktower which is all lit up at night with changing coloured lights. More drinks at the Cat Bar – cat decorations everywhere – where we play Connect Four and drink too much (I guess that’s me). We even have a singer and, guess what, he sings Country Roads with me serenading along – last drinks at O’Kane’s.

A wonderful adventurous day. 

Friday 24th June, 2022          

Chiang Rai

The plan today was to move on but we really like Chang Rai so we’ve decided to stay here another day and night and fly back to Bangkok tomorrow. 

Opposite the laneway to Orchid House laneway we have breakfast at Aw’s Place. She seems to be the same cook from O’Kane’s last night which means we get the same fabulous bacon and cheese baguette plus pineapple shakes and passionfruit shakes. 

After breakfast we hire a motorbike from a place down near the big wat and decide to look for the famous White Temple. From the map we picked up at Orchid, we’re sure we can find it but later realise that the map isn’t to scale. We become lost for two hours driving through open countryside, down little back alleyways, past rice paddies, tiny villages and even flying through the grounds of a big temple. Eventually we’re running low on petrol and give up – it’s been a great experience anyway.

Even though we’ve decided to stay in Chang Rai another night, of course we’re going to change guesthouses so we ride the bike back to check out of Orchid House and move into Baan Jaru just around the corner. The young man on the desk is super helpful and tells us that he can book a flight for us this afternoon. He also gives us the right directions to the White Temple which we’ll visit after lunch.

For this he recommends an expensive restaurant just a few streets away. I have chicken wings and Mark has drumsticks in a spicy curry – good people watching.

It seems that the White Temple is a lot further than we thought and because my bum is sore after this morning’s bike ride we decide to get a taxi out there. The first thing we see as we near the temple is tacky souvenir shops, cafes, fast food restaurants and lots of Thai tourists but then the temple itself comes into view. Wow this is amazing. We’ve seen pictures before but to see it in real life is next level. The strange thing is it’s not a true temple at all but a privately owned art exhibit. The artist who created it has a very very long name so I won’t go there. He built it out of white plaster (white to represent the spirit and the purity of Buddha) then inlaid it with thousands of glass mirrors which are now sparkling in the sun.

We wander inside the temple and around the grounds where we find an art gallery, an ordinance hall, a meditation hall and monks’ quarters – the whole place is dedicated to Buddhist teachings. Most unusual of all, is the over-the-top gold toilet building which is supposedly the fanciest in the world – gold to represent the body (or is it botty – toilet, get it?). We have to give it a go!

Afterwards we grab cold drinks before getting back in the taxi to arrive home about 4 o’clock. Here our guy on the desk books our flight to Bangkok in the morning – easy!

From our guesthouse we walk around to Monmueng Massage. And what a difference to the crappy place we went to yesterday. We usually prefer the really basic places but it’s nice to have something luxurious for a change. After soaking our feet in warm tubs of floating flowers and sliced lemons the young massage girls scrub our feet with salt and rub them with more lemons. Now they lead us into the back section – dark and moody with black walls and brass accents – so exotic for our one hour head, shoulders and neck massages. And unbelievably the same price as yesterday.

At Baan Jaru we both have cold showers then Mark walks over to O’Kane’s while I stop at a funny little hairdresser for a thirty minute hair wash and blow dry. For 100Baht I have my head shampooed and massaged for almost an hour – no kidding! I’ve been in here so long it’s dark by the time I leave and all the bars I pass walking up to O’Kane‘s are pumping with music and coloured lights. There are still a lot of places along here that aren’t open so we can imagine how much more lively it must have been before Covid hit – hopefully it’ll get back to what it once was one day. 

At O’Kane’s we order pizzas and drinks have a long chat with Bill, an expat from England. All these bars are full of expats – actually they’re the only Western people we’ve come across nearly the whole time we’ve been in Thailand.

Next we stop at the Peace Bar which is super cool but they don’t have any Coke zero so we find another tiny place for more drinks and then drinks back on our balcony. Go to bed!!

Saturday 25th June, 2022          

Chiang Rai to Bangkok

So this morning we’re flying back to Bangkok. The alarm has been set for 6 o’clock, we pack and have breakfast in the dining room and catch a taxi to the airport. We’re flying Lion Air and take off on time at 9 am arriving at Don Muang Airport fifty minutes later. Don Muang was once Bangkok’s international airport but for the last ten years or so it’s been domestic only since they built the massive Suvarnabhumi. Instead of a taxi, we catch a bus into the city and get dropped off at Khao San Road and head straight back to Villa Cha Cha – we even get our old room back. 

Breakfast/ lunch is at Madam Masur’s and we find that Khao San Road is much livelier today – what a difference a week has made!

We’ve decided to have a lazy day and have lunch in the street near Villa Cha Cha. On dark we head around to Pink for foot massages and have lots of photos taken with the girls. We’ve become close to them over the years. 

Dinner is back at Madam Masur’s which has become our favourite place around here this trip. To celebrate being back in Bangkok, I have margaritas and Mark has more beers. A young woman selling souvenirs from a tray around her neck comes over for a chat. Her name is Wat and we buy bracelets and have lots of fun – “where from?” – Australia – “ah g’day mate” she says, “the dingo’s got my baby” in a full-on Aussie accent – ha ha. 

From here we wander to the top of Soi Rambutri and watch break dancers in the street. Unbelievably Khao San Road is crazy tonight with loud doof doof music which seems to be what these crowds of young Thai people love – it’s unbearable! To escape the noise we find a quiet table opposite Sawadee House in the laneway. Mark buys dried squid from a guy who cooks it over hot coals on his cart. 

There’s so many more people around tonight compared to only last week. A weird white guy is annoying everyone with a puppet – he’s wearing a rainbow wig – good to see the freaks are back!  An early night.

Sunday 26th June, 2022          


Today we’re going to get off our arses and do some sightseeing. So at 9am we take a tuktuk to the Grand Palace which we haven’t visited since our very first visit to Thailand in 1997 when we were with the Intrepid group. At the busy entrance we pay 500 Baht or $20 each and I have to buy a T-shirt as well as my jacket is supposedly see-through – very strict dress rules here. First we stop at a cafe for Mark to have a coffee then visit the most sacred place inside the palace, Wat Phra Kaew, to see the Emerald Buddha. This is Thailand’s most revered religious icon – but it’s tiny (only 66cm high) compared to most huge Buddha statues in every other temple. Over the centuries it’s done the rounds all over Asia from India to Cambodia to Sri Lanka to Laos to different places in Thailand to finally end up here for the last two hundred years. Outside we both light candles for Angie and incense for Lauren, Abi and Elkie.  

It’s stinking hot so we try to find shade wherever we can. Just before leaving the Grand Palace we’re lucky to come across the changing of the guard, all very serious and looking immaculate in snowy white uniforms. 

Now another tuktuk ride to the 16th century Buddhist temple of Wat Po, a favourite that we’ve been visiting since that first time here in 1997 as well. As usual we get the tuktuk driver who wants to try and scam us – “Wat Po closed. I show you better”. Like a gem shop, perhaps?? We’ve been through this shit before so we dump him and find another driver. 

At Wat Po we head straight for the atmospheric Wat Po Massage School where we’ve been countless times and today we have a wonderful half-hour foot reflexology. This school is extra special as it’s known as the birthplace of traditional Thai massage. 

Later, wandering amongst the many pavilions we find a man doing a traditional dance to an audience of school kids, lots of monks and, of course, we must visit our old friend, the forty-six metre long Reclining Buddha. 

Back at Villa Cha Cha I look up other places to stay and find a wonderful place called Praya Palazzo. It’s on the opposite side of the river in Thonburi so we walk down to Pier Phra Ahtit where a private barge from the hotel will come to pick us up. This feels like luxury but it only costs $130 for the night – couldn’t get a shitty motel room in Australia for that. 

Praya Palazzo is a lovely old Italian-style mansion built in 1923 and is the only heritage hotel along the river. Painted a classic ochre colour, we can see it sitting majestic on the opposite bank of the Chao Praya River. As usual the river is busy with all sorts of watercraft – ferries going up and down, smaller ferries moving back and forth between Bangkok and Thonburi and the inevitable longtails.  We always find it exciting to be out on this busy river but different today on our cute little boat built to match the heritage style of the hotel. 

Pulling up at the small private Praya Palazza wharf, we’re helped ashore with our backpacks and greeted by a man in a maroon uniform – very formal. We follow him past the swimming pool then up a curved staircase to the first floor where he shows us our room. This leads off a wide airy veranda with arches overlooking the gardens and the river beyond. Our room is like the rest of the hotel, heritage and tastefully decorated with dark timber furniture and creaky wooden floors. 

After unpacking, we wander down to check out the hotel and to look for the dining room. This is another wow moment as we enter another world – a mix of Chinese, Thai and tropical colonial which is always my favourite mix of architecture and design. A dining area has smaller intimate rooms leading off and all painted a deep rich Chinese red with antique crystal chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, timber floors and all the furniture a carved ebony with velvet upholstery in rich jewel colours. Instead of sitting in the dining room we choose to sit in one of the alcoves on a purple velvet chaise lounge. 

We order three classic Thai dishes but I don’t love any of them – I am the worst “foodie” in the world – so Mark can have it all. The presentation though is absolutely beautiful and I’m happy taking photos. I also love the old sepia photographs all along the entry walls showing early images of the building which was built as a family home (they had ten children!) then later a private school for girls. 

We’ve decided that we’ll go back over to Banglamphu today to get some food that I actually like and have our usual massages and do a bit of shopping.  Before that, though, we have a swim in the pool which faces the river with gardens of bougainvillea and frangipanis on the other three sides. 

The deal with the hotel barge is that they give us a mobile phone to call them whenever we want to come back. There’s no other way to get to the hotel at all except by boat. Love this!  So crossing the Chao Praya once more, we jump off at the Phra Ahtit pier and head straight for the laneways of Banglamphu. 

Mark wants to watch the State of Origin so we head up to the top of Soi Rambutri to look for a restaurant with a television. To get there we walk through the temple to that hypnotic sound of chanting monks. Mark finds a place to watch the game but I couldn’t care less so I cross to a little beauty parlour opposite for a facial for 400 Baht.  Later we buy chicken skewers in Tanee Road then head back down to Pink for foot massages while I have a long talk to Phin, the owner. She tells me that she’s had an Australian boyfriend for years who has taken her to lots of places all over Asia but she thinks he’s found somebody else as hasn’t come back since Covid finished. “I want him come back because I love him” – poor darling. We decide now to head back over to Praya Palazza so Mark rings them to send the barge back over to pick us up. Stopping at the 711 on the way to the wharf, we buy coke, beer and soda water. 

Crossing is so much fun as it’s starting to rain and we’re surrounded by the lights of the city and all the river craft. 

At the hotel we set ourselves up for drinks under an umbrella next to the pool and have a lovely night on our own watching the dinner boats slide past with bands playing on the top decks. Oh and there are huuuuge snails like the ones we saw in the Four Thousand Islands in 2013.

A lovely ending to our last full day in Thailand. 

Monday 27th June, 2022          

Bangkok to Sydney

This morning we sleep in till 8 o’clock then head downstairs for breakfast – eggs benedict, baked beans, tomatoes, hash browns, fruit and yoghurt. We take the hotel boat across the river and then walk down to the Mahatat Market – this is another old favourite where we always end up buying wonderful things that are heaps cheaper than the touristy shops. I buy a necklace then we bargain for two big ceramic ginger jars before tuktuking back to the pier and ring for the boat to pick us up once again. After showers and packing, we cross back one last to Banglamphu then catch a taxi to the airport.

The plane is late taking off at 7pm but no problem, we’re going home to our gorgeous girls after another wonderful trip in beautiful Thailand. 

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Vietnam, Thailand and Laos 2018

Our Itinerary
02/11/2018FriSydney 10.10pm to Taipei 4.30am
03/11/2018SatTaipei 8.25am to Hanoi 10.35am to Lao Cai (overnight train) 10pm
04/11/2018SunLao Cai 6.15am to Sapa (bus)
06/11/2018TuesSapa to Dien Bien Phu (8hr bus)
07/11/2018WedDien Bien Phu to Muang Khua (bus 6hrs)
08/11/2018ThursMuang Khua to Muang Noi (boat 5hrs)
09/11/2018FriMuang Noi to Nong Kiaw (boat 1 hr) to Luang Prabang (bus 3hrs)
10/11/2018SatLuang Prabang
11/11/2018SunLuang Prabang
12/11/2018MonLuang Prabang
13/11/2018TuesLuang Prabang to Chiang Mai (Lao Aviation)
14/11/2018WedChiang Mai
15/11/2018ThursChiang Mai to Bangkok (overnight train)
18/11/2018SunBangkok 4.25pm to Singapore 10pm
19/11/2018MonSingapore to Sydney

Friday 2nd November, 2018

Sydney to Taipei

A normal weekday. Abi at school (Year 2), Elkie at ‘pweskool’, Mark at work, Lauren at the gym and me getting ready for our trip. Lauren drives us to the Station for the 3.15pm train to Central where we catch the Airport train to Mascot. It’s unusual to be on a night flight but we’re flying with China Airlines for a change. We buy Bacardi, exchange dollars into Thai Baht and US dollars then ring Lauren and the Dollies as well as Jackie and Jillian.

At 9.30pm we board for our 10.10pm flight and, woohoo, we have three seats which means we can sleep – only on and off though due to lots of turbulence.

We land in Taipei, Taiwan’s capital, at 4.30am but nothing is open so we just hang out in the lounge till it’s time for our flight to Hanoi, Vietnam.

Saturday 3rd November, 2018

Taipei to Hanoi to Lao Cai

It’s been seventeen years since we were last here and we’re hoping to like it more this time. And by the way, seventeen years feels like yesterday so when I project that seventeen years from now, I’ll be fucking dead! All those years ago we had terrible weather – nothing looks nice under grey, rainy skies. The weather today is clear blue skies so we’re off to a good start.

We grab a taxi to take us to the Old City where we plan to rent a room for the day even though we won’t be staying here tonight. We’ve already bought tickets for the sleeper train to Lao Cai but it doesn’t leave till 10pm so we want to be able to have a rest this afternoon as well as have a shower before we leave for the railway station.

Already we’ve changed our opinion of Hanoi as we wind our way through the historic Old Quarter. We love the French Indochina architecture mixed with street markets, old shop houses with slanted tile roofs and how each of the seventy six streets specializes in one specific trade that gives its name to the street – Street of Sugar, Street of Bamboo, Street of Silver etc.

Getting dropped off, we find a cheap guesthouse and head straight out. I flag down a passing cyclo (rickshaw) and we’re off being pedalled through the pretty streets overhung with shady trees and lined with old French buildings, a bit worse for wear but still beautiful. We share the streets with other cyclos, motorbikes, people pushing hand carts and others balancing a bamboo pole on one shoulder with a basket at each end carrying all sorts of produce.

By now it’s time to eat so we ask to be dropped at Madam Hien, a French restaurant in an old Indochine building with a leafy courtyard where we choose a table.  Mark has a beef noodle soupy thing while I order crumbed prawns and we share a Hanoi Beer. The atmosphere is perfect with great people watching – a table of tres French people next to us – and lovely Vietnamese staff. Yes we love Hanoi!

Now we wander down to Lake Hoan Kiem, a small, picturesque lake smack in the middle of the Old Quarter. Traffic is non-existent so this must be a pedestrian only area which makes it a peaceful haven from the chaos of the city. Trees line a walkway that wraps around the entire lake with lots of seating areas to chill out and watch all the activity. Families with the cutest bubbas keep us amused when they dance to the song Baby Shark which is pumping from a nearby shop.

Lots of people are heading for the18th-century Buddhist Ngoc Son temple which is situated on Jade Island reached by a small red bridge. We visited this last time and we want to see it again but there’s just too many people so we decide to check out the temple across the street then have a massage in one of the many places on offer. We’ve been waiting for this for so long and always one of the first things we` do when we arrive in South East Asia.   

In a nearby café, we call in to buy a drink. On the wall in big shiny letters is this – “We made happy for your wonderful life, Wonderful modern style for communication”. What? Lost in translation? …

But now it’s time for the Water Puppets. This is a very touristy thing to do but we loved it in 2001 so we’re back for more. They say it’s a performance like no other and it really is. Established in 1969, it’s a stage filled with water where the puppeteers stand waist high in the water and hide behind a screen. They move the wooden puppets telling tales of legends and the daily life of Vietnamese fishermen and farmers. All this is accompanied by beautiful music played on traditional instruments. We’re so lucky to be in the very front row and enjoy every minute – wish our girls could see this.

In the street outside we come across a young man playing beautiful music on a stringed musical instrument – busker?  –  we stop to listen. Close by we notice a wonderful bar/restaurant that curves around the edge of the lake. This is full but we’re lucky to find a table right on the water. I have my first Margarita cocktail while Mark has his usual beer. We might come back tonight.

We agree that now we’ll go back to our guesthouse for a nap as we’re both feeling a bit jetlagged. We also have a shower and prepare our packs for the overnight train.

On dark we head back out into the Old City and find the Night Market near Hang Dao Street. This iconic night market sells everything from handicrafts to clothes to ceramics and every type of souvenir imaginable. But the highlight of any night market is the food and here in Hanoi, we can buy authentic Vietnamese street food originating from almost every part of the country all cooked on the spot at each little stall – sweet soup, sticky rice, porridge with dough, pho and sweets like boiled sweet potatoes, boiled sweet corn, and sticky candy.

But the market is hectic with wall to wall people and it feels a bit touristy – not like the night markets we went to in the 90’s when it was all food and the real deal – bugs, crickets etc. So we decide to just have a quick look then find somewhere amazing for dinner and drinks which means walking over to the nearby French Quarter.

This area, also adjacent to Lake Hoan Kiem, has a different feel to the rest of Hanoi, in part because of the wider streets but mainly because of all the colonial architecture from the era of French rule. France occupied Hanoi in the late 19th century and replaced many of the old Vietnamese buildings with stunning French-style houses and villas that have now been turned into wonderful cafes and restaurants.

We stop at the romantic Green Tangarine Restaurant painted white with torquoise louvred shutters then the very classy La Siesta Hotel where we spend an hour on the rooftop bar. From here we look out over Lake Hoan Kiem where the glassy waters reflect back the lights of the city. Mark has a few Hanoi Beers while I order my usual margaritas.

But now it’s time to make our way to the railway station so we pick up our packs from the guesthouse then catch a taxi at the end of the street. The station is only twenty minutes away in the small town of Gia Lam. We’ll be leaving from Gia Lam Station and not the huge Hanoi Railway Station because to get to Sapa we need to catch one of the trains to Lao Cai on the Chinese border.

Giam Lam is a much smaller and appealing station compared to the imposing communist style of the main station and we find the entrance down a small alleyway. We no longer pick up our tickets and drop our bags in the small waiting room, when we’re told that we can board now. This is good news as I’m feeling deathly tired and can’t wait to settle into my bunk.

I’d booked sleeper tickets online before we came to make sure we didn’t miss out like we did in 2001 when we had to sit up all night on the train from Hanoi to Hue. It was an experience that I’m glad we had, but ‘been there done that’, and much prefer to be able to lie down for the overnight trip to northern Vietnam.

We’re doing the journey aboard the Chapa Express which will cover the three hundred kilometres in just under eight hours. I’d seen pictures of the train but we’re both more than happy with our cute cabin that we’re sharing with a friendly young French couple. The mattress is so comfy and I’d love to sit up chatting with our new friends but I fall asleep before we even leave the station at 10.30pm.


Sunday 4th November, 2018

Lao Cai to Sapa

As usual on overnight trains, I have a great sleep and even Mark has a good night despite that the bunks are always too short for him. At 6am, we pull into Ga Lao Cai under a cloudless sky which is a nice surprise considering the rainy forecast.

We drag our bags across the tracks then into the carpark where we find a public van that will take us to Sapa for only $5 each. Of course we don’t leave till we’re completely full but still in good time at 6.30am. We cross the Nanxi and Red Rivers then drop a Chinese couple off at the border between Lao Cai and Hekou in China.   

The one hour trip up the long and winding road passes quickly as we enjoy the views of misty valleys, tall pine trees, rice terraces and lots of mountains. At 7.30am we reach the outskirts of Sapa then pass by the lake situated in the middle of town before being dropped off just below the town square.

Mark checks the map on his phone to find the Fansipan Homestay where we have a room booked for tonight. This booking ahead thing is something new for us but we want to stay somewhere cheap but mainly somewhere that has local character – the Fansipan seems to be both. And it also has spectacular views of the Muong Hoa valley and Mount Fansipan which incidentally is the highest mountain in Vietnam.

The Homestay is a long skinny two story place with a restaurant at the top and rooms beneath which means no matter where you are you have a view.

Our first job is to have breakfast – chicken and corn soup for me and a local soup for Mark. We ring Lauren and the Dollies then store our bags downstairs as we can’t check in till midday.

We plan to stay in Sapa for two nights so we’ve got all day today then tomorrow as well to explore the town and the surrounds. Mark hires a motorbike from the owner of the guesthouse then we’re told we need to get over to the other side of town to fill it up with petrol. Is there only one petrol station in Sapa? And this is an experience in itself. The lineup is super long and everyone is squashed in together but there is an efficiency to the chaos and we’re soon heading back into town to the Hmong Market.

The Hmong are hill tribe people who wear clothes made from the traditional black and indigo fabric that they dye by hand and decorate with intricate embroidery. Silver coins and beads are also added to represent wealth.

This group of Hmong people have gathered in a tiny park in the town centre to sell small birds in cane cages, herbs, vegetables and home-made knives and cleavers. Most ladies though are stripping bamboo shoots and tying them into bunches which seem to be very popular with the locals. I buy a Hmong pillow case from the cutest tiny old lady who also wants her photo taken with me then sticks her hand out for payment – go girl!

Sitting almost on top of the park are a row of colourful cafes and restaurants decorated with window boxes overflowing with flowers so we sit in the sun on the little verandah of 1991 Restaurant for pineapple shakes and Mark has a shot of coffee. From here we can watch the goings on at the market and the town fountain where two little hill tribe girls are playing in their traditional clothes.

We could easily sit here all day (not really) but it’s time to get moving and find the main Sapa Market. Sapa itself is a market town where people from nearby villages converge to meet and trade. And this is where the surrounding hill tribe people come to sell their handicrafts – the Hmong, Zao, Ta Van, Lao Chai, and Y Linh Ho Zao. We check out the smelly meat section, the live fish section then our favourite fruit and vegetable area where we find all sorts of fruits that we’ve never seen before. Mark orders a bowl of pho bo while I hang out with two little hill tribe dollies about three years old wearing traditional clothes and headwear.

It’s time now to head back to our guesthouse to book in but have lunch first on the sunny rooftop terrace facing the mountains and rice terraces. It’s actually nice to sit in a sunny spot because did I say it’s quite cool here – well we are 1,500 metres above sea level after all. Sapa is nestled in the cool mountainous north making it quite different from the rest of hot, humid Vietnam. 

So now we can move our bags into our room which is clean and simple but oh my God, look at the view! Our Fansipan Homestay is perched on the very edge of the plateau that Sapa sits on and so we have million dollar views of the Sapa Valley etched with the terraced green rice paddies that Sapa is famous for. I video the view only to walk straight into the glass window.

After a two hour nap (I’m still stupidly tired) Mark wakes me so we don’t waste the afternoon. The plan is to visit Cat Cat Village only four kilometres down the mountain. We pass a sight that’s become familiar to us already in Sapa. Hmong tribeswomen attach themselves to Western tourists in the hope of coaxing them to visit their village. Don’t blame them but I don’t think the experience would be too authentic so we’ll give that a miss.

Visiting Cat Cat village is one of the ‘must see’ things to do in Sapa and I’m sure it would have been wonderful twenty years ago but now it’s a bloody circus. Young Asian tourists rent traditional costumes and pose for photos – funny and tragic at the same time. We park the bike at the top of the village then walk down the hillside past local homes – now this is more like the real thing. We stop to sit with three bare bottomed toddlers and give them a toy kangaroo each. I buy an embroidered indigo bag from a pretty lady then continue down the stone path but we’re followed the whole way by ladies wanting us to buy more. Had enough and head back to the bike and home.  


Just before dark we ride down the mountain to a restaurant sitting on the edge of a ridge that we can see from our room. It’s an old French villa complete with a round turret and has a wide terrace that juts out from the side of the hill with those magical views of the Sapa Valley. From here we can see the plateau where the main town sits and where newer buildings cling to the side of the mountain that drops down into the Muong Hoa valley.

After a couple of drinks we set off uphill on the bike towards the centre. Barely any traffic so it’s wonderful to ride around getting to know our way around town. We find the small and very trendy Color Bar situated in a thatched hut and owned by a Hanoi artist. More drinks here then we drive back to the guesthouse for a late dinner – a banquet to share (horrible) – then too many drinks for me. Go to bed!

Monday 5th November, 2018


We wake to misty mountain views and have a leisurely breakfast of bacon and eggs plus pineapple and strawberry shakes on the sunfilled terrace. We’re soon joined by a hill tribe lady who waits patiently till we’re finished – I buy an indigo scarf.

As much as we love the Fansipan Homestay we’re going to move to a place in the centre of town so we can walk everywhere tonight and don’t have to worry about the bike. We’ll keep it all day today, though, as we plan to explore the countryside.

We drive all around the centre and up into the hillside behind then back through the narrow streets of the oldest area. Sapa town has a lot of French influence and the buildings are all brightly painted with European style balconies and clay-tiled rooftops.

Near the newly built monstrocity that is the Sun World Fansipan Legend Station, we park the bike to check it out and return in time to find a policeman just about to write us a ticket. When he sees that we’re dumb tourists he smiles and lets us go. And after wandering through the hideous Sun World Fansipan Legend Station, we decide to forget the cable car experience to Mount Fansipan and just spend the day down in the Valley.

But before we set off, we book in for tonight at the Than Son Hotel in the sunny strip opposite the Hmong Market. Cafes and restaurants line the square so we’ll have heaps to choose from tonight.

Now with our day packs ready, we find the road that descends steeply into the Muong Hoa valley, home to many hill tribe villages. We wind our way downwards passing lots of hill tribe ladies some with babies strapped to their backs and other with circular cane baskets. At other times we pass girls sitting in groups on the side of the road sewing the hand dyed cloths.  At one point we get off the bike and I buy five more indigo scarves as gifts at home. The ladies are very sweet so I buy more.

We drive around on bumpy, rock covered roads until our bums are so sore we decide to call it a day and make our way back up the mountain to move into our new guesthouse. We drop into a café next door for Mark to have a coffee then to another café in the next street for more fruit shakes. All the pavements around here are occupied by even more hill tribe people squatting on the ground with their handicrafts laid out in front of them. I don’t know how they make enough money to live.

In the same street we find a simple massage place for wonderful foot massages then spend an hour resting in our new room and getting our packs ready for our trip to Dien Bien Phu in the morning. We’d booked seats on a bus earlier today that will leave Sapa at 7.30am at a cost of 250 Dong ($15AUD) each.

At six o’clock we rug up as the temperature has really dropped then head out in search of suckling pig. This is another must-do thing in Sapa and there’s no shortage of restaurants with a poor pig being roasted on a rotisserie out the front. We choose a place on the corner and sit upstairs for a good view of the goings on in the square. For some reason we’re the only people here! The pig comes out chopped into bite sized pieces but it’s too tough so I let Mark have it all.

Meanwhile down below we can see lots of carts roasting chestnuts and sadly two young hill tribe girls still wandering around with their baby brother or sister strapped to their backs.

The mist is rolling in, creating an other-worldly atmosphere and I’m glad we got to experience this. Looking for better food, we come across a busy restaurant filled with noisy locals so this must be the place to be. That’s until we read the menu – Civet Cat, Bamboo Rat and Porcupine Stir Fry – all with photos attached in case we thought we got it wrong. We do stay for soup and rice then move on to a couple of other quieter places for beers, margaritas and spring rolls.

Tuesday 6th November, 2018

Sapa to Dien Bien Phu

Up early for showers and to sort our day packs as we’ll be spending most of the day on the road. While we wait for the bus, we have breakfast in the café downstairs – the famous Vietnamese pho (pronounced “fuh” by the way). We watch a young man prepare it in the sun outside. He slices beef into thin slices, adds noodles, bean sprouts, herbs then pours a beef broth over the top – wonderful comfort food on this chilly morning. Mist still covers the top of the mountains but the day is slowly warming up and clear blue skies mean no rain.

The bus still hasn’t turned up so we hang out in the fabulous Cong Caphe where Mark orders a coffee. I fall in love with the interior design – rustic with military-style decor and dim lights that create a mellow ambiance. The floor and walls are polished cement with a stone counter and hill tribe hangings on the walls. I take lots of photos.

At 8.15am the seven thirty bus arrives. It’s actually a small van with the back few seats piled high with sacks of vegetables. We talk to an Israeli guy called Shekad while the rest of the passengers are locals.

The distance from Sapa to Dien Bien Phu is about three hundred kilometres so we don’t imagine we’ll get there before dark. As expected in these mountainous regions, the pace is slow as we crawl our way around hairpin bends and keep climbing upwards. After two hours we pull into Lai Chau, a small town nestled in the heart of a beautiful valley carved by the Da River.

It’s a pleasant surprise to find that we’re changing to a bigger van for the rest of the trip. This is much more comfortable even though the road doesn’t improve and three local people vomit into plastic bags which they then chuck out the window. Luckily we don’t get sick but I make sure I watch the road the whole way. One strange lady has her nose literally shoved inside a bread roll – maybe to stop her feeling sick? Hill tribe people get on as well as lots of locals who sit up front laughing and chatting loudly with the driver.

The terrain is so mountainous that banana trees are planted on almost vertical slopes while we see the inevitable terraced rice paddies and mountains, mountains and mountains. Around noon, we stop for lunch in a small town. This must come with the price of the bus ticket as we all get the same thing – a tray with sectioned off bits containing tofu, rice, roast chicken and herb sausages. We always love these lunch stops even though I can never eat much. Shekad sits with us and we swap travel plans.

On the bus again, we continue up and down and round and round but I love it all. Always something interesting to see – ladies wearing conical hats working in fields, buffalo herders, wide brown rivers, cows, pigs, goats, and water buffalo.

This mountainous area is the home to many ethnic minority villages as well and we see lots of tribal people walking alongside the road. This area is also where one of the most pivotal battles took place during the Vietnam War. Google tells the story:

The Battle of Dien Bien Phu was fought in 1954 between the French and the Viet Minh. French troops were stationed in Dien Bien Phu with the intention of cutting off the Viet Minh’s path into Laos. This, however, did not succeed as the Viet Minh retaliated with a tenacity and brute force that the French were not expecting. The Viet Minh forces eventually conquered all of the French posts in Dien Bien Phu, and the decisive battle was the prelude to the Geneva Conference which saw the country divided into North and South Vietnam and eventually, France’s retreat from Vietnam.

We learn something every day!

Finally at five o’clock we’re jumping out at the Dien Bien Phu bus station, saying goodbye to Shekad and catching a taxi to the Ruby Hotel recommended by Lonely Planet. We’re only here for the night but have to spend 500 Dong ($25) for our room. Still it’s big, clean and we’re told that we get a takeaway breakfast to take on the bus trip tomorrow which we book at the desk – yes, there is a front desk – very posh.  While we’re booking we talk to a lovely Dutch couple, Anna and Herman, who are also heading for Laos so we find a bar in the next street to share a few drinks with them.

Later Mark and I find ‘café street’ where some very basic restaurants remind us that this is the Asia that we love rather than the fancy places in Sapa and Hanoi. A friendly lady is cooking out the front of one of these and coaxes us inside. She points to photos of fried rice and fried noodles and we nod to one of each. We end up with mountains of food as we watch the locals tucking in to even more mountains of food.

More beers at the café but I’m too tired to stay up any longer and we’re in bed by 7.45pm.

Wednesday 7th November, 2018

Dien Bien Phu to Muang Khua

Angie’s 39th birthday. Happy birthday in heaven little one. I’ll be thinking of you all day but I always do anyway. I don’t know if being away from home will make it easier or harder. We’ll ring Lauren later to see how she’s coping.

We’re awake before the alarm goes off at 4.30am then shower and finish packing before meeting the taxi downstairs. By 5am we’re at the bus station and we actually leave on time. At the moment there are only eight passengers – seven westerners and one Vietnamese girl.

Driving through town in the dark we stop continually to pick up more passengers, bulging hessian bags and even car tyres. Leaving Dien Bien Phu we drive past rice paddies and through villages where local kids are riding their bikes to school – it’s only 6am! In small towns, village people are already setting up roadside stalls selling vegetables, fruit and meat.

Along the drive, we’ve been making friends with the other passengers. They’re all very friendly – Isla from Belgium, a sweet Polish girl, Anna and Herman plus another Dutch man called Frank – a nice trip.

We continually climb steep peaks then descend into deep valleys, sometimes crossing swift flowing streams while the north Vietnamese mountains poke through the morning fog as the sun rises.

The bus makes endless stops on the way to the border, collecting all sorts of goods to be transported to Laos. This means that the 35 kilometre trip has taken nearly two hours and we arrive at the sunny Vietnam border post at Tay Trang at 7.30am.

I’m glad I did my homework because this border won’t allow anyone through with an E-visa, that is, an online tourist visa. To exit Vietnam through this land border we had to send our passports to the Vietnamese Embassy in Australia to have the Visa stamped inside.

The little Polish girl has only just found this out and I wish we’d talked about it on the bus so she might have been able to make other arrangements earlier. What she needs to do is to return to Diem Bien Phu and travel south to a different Vietnam/Laos border crossing. But there isn’t any transport to get her back to Dien Bien and the internet just doesn’t work up here in the middle of nowhere. She’s very upset and asks if Mark and I will go with her to see the guy in charge. She bravely pushes over some notes as a bribe but he won’t be in it – must be a first!

Now we have to leave but I think she’ll be ok. She’s been travelling on her own for ages so she’ll sort it our somehow. And it’ll be just another adventure.

A short drive through the “no man’s land” section between the border crossings and we pull up at the Laos entry side. Here we hand in passports at Window 1, pay $30 US at Window 2, pay $2US for some mysterious fee at Window 3 then pay $3US to have our foreheads zapped. Funny.

Off again we’ve picked up Shekad – where the hell did he come from – and he instantly makes a beeline for the pretty Isla.

For the next three hours we cross more mountains and along valley floor alive with villages and cultivated land before crossing the bridge into Muang Khua at 10.30am.

Even though we’ve been crossing mountains the whole way we must have been gradually descending without us even realizing as it’s much warmer here and we peel off the layers. We’re all dropped in what looks like the centre of town with a dusty open area surrounded by simple cafes and shops. Muang Khua is very quiet and tiny with just a couple of streets leading away from the square, most leading down to the Nam Ou River.

Muang Khua actually sits at the confluence of two rivers, the Nam Ou and the smaller Nam Phak. The Nam Ou River will take us on a longtail boat to Muang Noi tomorrow which is the main reason for travelling overland to Luang Prabang. I’ve been planning this trip for years and so far it’s just how I’d imagined it.

Before going in search of a place to stay we sit under the awning of an open-fronted café in the sun where a lady is cooking something in a blackened pot over a wood fire. Too early for a hot meal so I settle for a bowl of chopped fruit and Mark has a coffee. Anna and Herman have already found a guesthouse but we want to stay in one of the riverside places across the picturesque suspension bridge. We leave our bags in the café while we cross the bridge with Isla to check out the Monotham Guesthouse.

We love it at first sight – just a few simple wooden cabins with a central deck overhanging the riverbank. We all book in and Shekad is here as well. Our room is lined with raw timber boards, a tiled floor and big wooden shutters opening to the view of the river and houses beyond. The opening is huge and with no glass at all we feel like we’re suspended above the water.

Mark crosses back over the bridge to drag back our big packs then we do a mini unpack which is basically making a mess then have a lie down and a read. At 1pm we walk back across the bridge to find somewhere we can get wifi.

Kids are swimming in the river which is a long way down and the bridge is very wobbly with lots of planks missing – safety? The view is too beautiful to care though – pastel coloured houses surrounded by coconut trees, starburst palms and thick vegetation with a backdrop of soaring mountains.

On the other side we walk down to the main bridge but Mark is feeling low on sugar so we seek out the market. This is a true local market – no souvenirs, just vegetables and fruit grown locally. Mark orders a soup which we watch a lady assemble in front of us. Wonderful but, oh the flies! I’ll eat later! At a roadside stall I buy a cap for the boat then we find a fabulous bamboo restaurant overlooking the Nam Ou River for more mango and pineapple shakes. The wifi is actually working here and we can even charge our phones.

Down below we can see longtail boats pulled up to the riverbank and others chugging slowly past – happiness! We’ll come back later for sunset.

Now though we want to explore the area on the other side of the Nam Phak River near our guesthouse. This is home to the Khamu people who were the indigenous inhabitants of northern Laos and still form the largest ethnic group, outnumbering even the Lao.

So crossing the suspension bridge we wander around the village houses getting lots of waves from the kids, some of who are cheering on a couple of roosters having a cock fight. We also visit the wat which is as elaborate as all Buddhist temples and makes us happy as always. We try to chat to a tiny monk but he can’t understand us. Mark has a few bangs on the big brass gong for good luck.

As the sun starts to set we head back to the restaurant on the river where we run into Hans from our bus so we all have drinks and dinner together. He’s great company and good to know that we’ll all be travelling on the boat tomorrow.

A wobbly walk home across the wobbly bridge.                                                                        

Thursday 8th November, 2018

Muang Khua to Muang Noi

5am and what the hell??!! A loud speaker is bellowing from somewhere across the river. It goes on for an hour and Mark thinks it must be someone broadcasting the news. Bloody hell, what time do these people get up?

But we’ve had plenty of sleep and we want to get up as early as we can anyway. The boat is leaving at 8am and we need to have breakfast first. This means crossing the suspension bridge once more – getting the hang of this now – and finding a place for coffee, fruit salad and omelets. We’ve brought lots of snacks and water for the six hour trip ahead.

After retrieving our packs from the Monotham we walk down to the river bank of the Nam Ou where Mark buys boat tickets at the ticket office which for some reason is on a floating pontoon. We made sure to get here early so we can get our pick of the seats. Hans, Shekad, Anna and Herman turn up then six young people plus a guy who also brings his mountain bike.

 All the backpacks are stacked in a large pile at the back, which ends up being a comfy backrest for Mark and Hans who have ended up in the worst spot – so much for beating the young people to the best seats!

We push off the bank at 8.30am for the start of our ‘very big adventure!’ And we couldn’t have wished for a more perfect day, calm and warm but not stiflingly hot just yet as we chug downstream.  

Once we leave Muang Khua we don’t pass any other towns, just the occasional glimpse of a shack but the rest is unspoilt scenery. I’ve read that this boat journey from Muang Khua to Muang Ngoi is one of the most scenic boat trips you can take in South East Asia. The scenery gradually changes as the hours slip by and the spectacular limestone mountains that we’d expected to see suddenly appear. Both sides of the river are overgrown with dense jungle with sandy beaches now and again and we pull into one of these for a toilet stop and everyone makes a dash for the undergrowth.

Onwards now to continue for the next few hours down this pristine river but out of nowhere appears a monstrous concrete dam. We’ve read that the Chinese have plans to build seven dams along the Mekong and the Nam Ou which will change the course of both rivers – and this is one of the first. The breath-taking scenery we’ve been witnessing will be under threat as fragile eco-systems and communities are impacted by greed and politics. Bullshit!

So now how do we get around this fucking thing? Get off the bloody boat is how. And there isn’t any easy way to do this but scramble up a muddy and rocky steep embankment with Mark having to carry both the heavy big packs which we then throw into the back of a waiting songthaew. We all pile in except for the guy with the mountain bike who takes off ahead of us.

Once we’re all aboard we only have to drive about a kilometer along a bouncy dirt track along the top of the dam. Everyone cracks up when we overtake the mountain bike guy covering him in thick red dust – ha ha – he’s laughing too.  

This time we have to scramble with our luggage down another steep rocky path to reach a different slow boat that’s docked on the shore. But this isn’t our boat as it’s already full so we wait for the next one. Meanwhile, we can buy cold beers in the floating waiting dock – very civilized but wonderfully basic.

We continue now for a few more hours really appreciating the trip even more as the reality dawns that this area may never be the same in a couple of years. We pass people fishing from dugout canoes, water buffalo, vegetable gardens planted right down to the water’s edge and even caves under the limestone hills. About two o’clock we see a few thatched shacks up ahead on our left and soon pull into a small jetty – we’ve arrived in Muang Noi!

A long set of concrete stairs leads from the dock to the town above. If there is a more gorgeous village we haven’t seen it. It has a narrow gravel main street, with little shops, restaurants, bars and guesthouses on either side with a Buddhist temple at one end. Directly behind us is a mountain covered in thick vegetation and in front, a pointy limestone karst so that Muang Noi feels like it’s nestled in between.

An American guy shows us his guesthouse and we book in for the night. The first thing we want to do is have a swim as we’re sweltering now that we’re off the boat.

Leaving the village behind, we follow the hand-painted signs that direct us past fantastic rustic restaurants almost hidden by trees and shrubs. This is backpacker heaven even though there doesn’t seem to be too many around besides our boatload.

We find the fast flowing stream that flows into the Nam Moi and spend a heavenly half an hour floating around – ah, the serenity! On the way back to our guesthouse we stop at a lovely restaurant set in a garden with lots of cool decorations and colourful paint work for icy fruit shakes and spring rolls.

And now that we’ve cooled down we change and wander around the tiny town watching ladies buying from shops with vegetables laid out on tables out the front, kids playing on the road, chickens and roosters scratching around and someone riding a pushbike.

Isolated Muang Noi is only accessible by water as there are no roads at all leading here which means no motorized traffic and so total peace. A few paths straggle away from the main street leading to village houses which are all neat and pretty with lots of flowers and flowering shrubs. And the number of places to eat and drink seems at odds with such a small and remote place but somehow it’s on the backtracker trail and we couldn’t be happier to have found it.

As we explore the sleepy village we love seeing the locals living a lot of their lives outside their homes – cooking, chatting with passers-by, chopping wood, sweeping – and all are friendly giving us a smile or a wave.

Later as the sun drops towards the top of the mountains we find a pretty restaurant on the river to watch the sun set behind the limestone karst mountains which rise up behind each other. Small boats bob in the water below us and we can barely hear a sound.

We decide to check out all the places to eat and find amazing restaurants that are all open despite the few patrons. Every one of these are made from local materials – bamboo, wood, thatch and decorated with tribal hangings and artefacts. We love a big place further along the riverbank and settle in for food and a few drinks.

Later we wander around the nearby houses. One thing very noticeable here is the re-purposed bomb casings used as flower pots and water troughs. Research reads that from 1964 to 1973 the United States dropped over 270 million cluster bombs on Laos. About one third of these bombs didn’t explode, which means that Laos was left with 80 million unexploded bombs littering the country. Since 1974 they’ve only been able to clear 1% of these and Laotians are still killed every year by these bombs.

Now we plan to do a restaurant crawl down the main street, for drinks not food. Our favourite is Gabrielle’s run by an old French guy and we hang out on bean bags sitting on the floor around a low table. Shekad is here with Isla and others from our boat but we don’t see our older friends, Hans, Anna and Herman.

Further down towards our guesthouse we stop at another place with an open fire pit and sit around having a few too many. Time to go to bed as we want to get up super early to watch the monks doing their alms rounds.

Friday 9th November, 2018

Muang Noi to Luang Prabang

The alarm wakes us at 5am, still dark, of course. We quickly change then walk up the deserted street to the temple. A soft mist hangs low in the air creating an other-worldly atmosphere, just perfect for this special experience. Closer to the temple a few village people are setting up stalls even at this incredibly early hour.

We sit on the steps leading up to the temple gate where we can see the goings on inside the monastery grounds. A few monks in orange robes are warming their hands in front of a wood fire and others are sweeping the compound with besom brooms. I play with the temple cats who proceed to chase the resident chickens while a rooster crows from the other side of the village. Love, love this!

About 6.30am an elderly monk beats the huge temple drum then the rest of the monks appear in the soft pre-dawn light. They walk barefoot in single file along the dirt track which is now lined with village ladies kneeling in respect and placing gifts of food, like sticky rice, into each monk’s alms bowl. Twice the young monks stop to stand in a row and chant. We’ve seen monks doing their alms rounds many times before but not in such an authentic place as this remote little village.

The monks continue their walk through the village but we leave them to have our breakfast. We head back to Gabrielle’s for fruit and muesli for me and a ham and egg baguette for Mark. Over coffee and tea, Mark rings Steve at work to sort out his jobs for the day.

Today we plan to move on to Nong Khiaw, again by public boat which will leave about 9.30am. This gives us enough time for a walk to one of the many caves around the town. We follow the trail past the wat at the northern end of town. Here we come across a village woman feeding pigs in bamboo pigsties then continue along the track to a small house where we pay a smiling old man 10,000kip to continue up to Pha Noi cave. Apparently during the US bombings, the villagers of Muang Noi lived in these caves to escape the bombs.

It’s a steep climb with wooden handrails but I’m eventually scrambling upwards on all fours – forget it! Mark continues on but the cave is still nowhere in sight so we give up and head back down into the village.

This fans out from the main street amongst tall shady trees. Dirt tracks wind between the houses with yards fenced off from each other with latticed bamboo. Turkeys, ducks, pigs and chickens run free everywhere we go and we see people going about their morning chores. Back in the main street more ladies have set up wooden tables now piled with vegetables for sale while others are cooking over hot coals – pancakes, waffles, spring rolls and fried bananas.

 We’d love to stay here for a week but we’re really time poor so we have to keep moving on and plan to stay in Nong Khiaw tonight.

Almost time for the boat to arrive so we pack up and head towards the wharf stopping on the way to buy spring rolls from a lady who’s cooking them on the street. Oh, wow! They’re absolutely the best we’ve ever tasted so we buy more.

Reaching the top of the stairs leading down to the water, we hang out with a few other backpackers. The river is picture postcard, completely calm with the thick green forest on the bank opposite and limestone karsts rising up behind. The sun is shining brightly in a clear blue sky so we have another perfect day ahead.

Two boats pull up, already packed with locals but we manage to squash into the last one. The trip to Nong Khiaw is only one and a half hours so being squashed isn’t a problem and we love using local transport wherever we go. The scenery on this southern stretch of the Nam Ou is even more dramatic with lush jungle either side of the river backed with even taller jungle-clad limestone mountains. The boat is much faster today and we all get wet from the spray.

As we near Nong Khiaw there is more river traffic going in both directions and longtails tied up on the shore. It appears to be a much bigger town than either Muang Khua or Muang Noi and we decide before we even get off the boat that we’ll move on to Luang Prabang.

At Delilah’s rustic café we order salad and baguettes while we wait for the 1pm bus. About 12.30pm we set off for the bus station but soon a van pulls up beside us – this must be the Luang Prabang bus. It looks full to bursting but everyone makes room for us but we have the worst seats ever – right up the back, crammed in nursing our luggage, the seats too low to even see out the window and the suspension is fucked! Add to this the horrendous road and it’s a very long three and a half hour trip. The only upside is a friendly couple who keep us amused with their travels. They’re actually catching the fourteen hour overnight bus from Luang Prabang to Chiang Rai tonight – good luck with that!

One other downside of this trip is that about half way we come across a very disturbing sight – another fucking Chinese dam being built! It seems that changes may happen quickly so we’re very grateful have done our epic river trip before it’s destroyed forever.

Finally we reach the outskirts of Luang Prabang. It’s been seventeen years since we were last here when we caught a bus from Viang Vieng seven hours from the south and were dropped off at the bus station which was then on the outskirts of town. Now the city has spread way beyond the bus station and we’re horrified to see lots of featureless high rise hotels where there were once green fields. These have been built by the Chinese government – cunts!

We dread to think what the main part of town may now be like!

From the bus station, we jump into a songthaew with a few other travellers to head into the old city where we’ve booked a place at the Oui Guesthouse on There was a 50% off deal so we’ll only be paying $32 for the night. The old city is located on a stunning narrow peninsular at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers and thankfully a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I say thankfully because it means that the fuck-off Chinese hotels can’t contaminate this magical place.

Oui Guesthouse is on the quieter Nam Khan side with river views from the cute front verandah where we’re told we’ll have breakfast in the morning. The owner is sweet and shows us our big, clean room with hot water, air-con and a television which we won’t bother with anyway.

After hot showers we set off in the dark to the far, pointy end of the peninsular and set up at the View Café.

We find a table on the wooden deck right on the riverbank with a view of a tiny temple lit up on the opposite bank. Mark has a Beer Lao while I have my favourite Margarita – and it’s a good one too!  To order we’re given an ipad which is so, so upmarket compared to the simple restaurants in Muang Noi with their little blackboard menus. Both bloody awesome but very different!

Later we wander around to the Mekong side to see if things have changed there. So far this small, palm-fringed peninsula looks just as it had all those years ago. It seems that the Chinese tourists come into the old city during the day then hightail it back to their horrible high rise hotels at night. Thank God they’re not interested in staying in the gorgeous colonial French villas that have been turned into guesthouses but prefer their concrete monstrosities instead.

Nor do they appear to want to dine in the atmospheric and classy restaurants dotted throughout these pretty streets but back at their hotels with all-you-can-eat buffets, no doubt.

So now we’re extra happy especially when we find some of the old simple eateries we remember along the riverbank. But we also come across the luxurious new 5-star hotel, Victoria Xieng Thong Palace Hotel which was the former residence of the Lao royal family and then the Royal Palace – we’ll be back tomorrow night for happy hour.

Heading away from the river we find a table at the Bamboo Tree Restaurant where three young local girls are dancing in the traditional way accompanied by gorgeous Lao music. We’re given a red Welcome drink plus a plate of lemongrass and dried bananas. I have spring rolls while Mark has squid with coconut and chili – sounds good but it was shit and so was my Margarita!  We move on.

This is just around the corner to the Gourmet Bakery opposite the Xieng Thong Temple. The street is empty – no Chinese tourists here – and we have a lovely time sitting at a table outside drinking two more Margaritas for me (excellent this time and only $5) and Beer Lao for Mark.

Back to our gorgeous guesthouse at 9pm.

Saturday 10th November, 2018

Luang Prabang

A very early start this morning at 5:15am. This is because we’re off to see the monks on their morning alms rounds. We walk up to Wat Xieng Thong at dawn to see people in the side laneway preparing sticky rice and putting it into bamboo pots. We soon hear the boom of the temple drums when the monks in their orange robes start coming towards us along the road in the dark. A few other tourists are giving alms to the monks as well as many locals. As always this is a magical experience and I plan to come back tomorrow.

It’s still too early to do anything so we head back home to bed. Mark sleeps while I research the Lonely Planet. We’re up again at 8 o’clock for breakfast on the verandah – poached eggs, baguettes, coffee and tea. I find an awesome place on the Internet where we could hopefully stay tonight and walk up the laneway to check out the Khoi Xieng Thong Boutique Villa.

It’s hard to describe how really beautiful this place is and we quickly take it for two nights for only $70. Our room is upstairs off a wide balcony. We have two huge four-poster beds, six windows overlooking the gardens and the Xieng Thong Temple, a big bathroom, a television, air conditioning, hot water and a soaring ceiling. How can this gorgeous place possibly be so very cheap?

Now it’s time to visit Wat Xieng Thong where a young Lao couple are having professional photos taken while wearing traditional clothes. At a small market inside the grounds we buy bamboo fans for the dollies then explore the temple itself.

We visited Visit Wat Xieng Thong many years ago mainly because it was on the cover photo for the Laos Lonely Planet at the time and also because it’s one of the most important temples of Laotian history and the most visited temple in Luang Prabang. Built in1560 as a royal temple, it has a low-swooping roof and richly decorated gold exterior. We wander through all the different halls and wats but now it’s time to move into our beautiful new guest house so we return to Oui to pack up then drag our bags up to Khoi Xieng Thong Villa.

After checking in, we hire a motorbike scooter from a place around the corner for $20 a day. Ladies are walking by balancing baskets on the ends of bamboo poles – this is a true local area!

With me riding pillion, we drive down to the Mekong to seek out somewhere to have a massage. We find a wonderful atmospheric place with wide windows opening onto the street. First our feet are washed in bowls then upstairs we have a full body oil massage for only 70,000 kip each.

Back on the bike the first thing to do is to find a petrol station then we set out to look for Utopia Cafe recommended by travellers’ blogs. We wind our way down narrow lane ways with houses close on either side until we reach the Nam Khánh with Utopia overlooking the river. Trendy people are hanging around on floor cushions and we find a spot for ourselves. This is backpacker food heaven with a berry smoothie, a fruit shake, satay skewers and chicken wings with a honey glaze. We could stay here all day but I’m always impatient to move on to something else.

I usually like to get my hair washed and blow dried when we’re in Asia because it’s so cheap so we look for a salon on the ride home. Can’t see any so I’ll look again tomorrow. Back in our lovely room I shower and wash my hair then we both rest and read in our comfy bed. Up at 4:30 pm to ride to the night market at the other end of the old city.

Even though it isn’t quite dark yet the market is set up in narrow alleyways with stalls on one side and tables and chairs set up opposite. We check out the strange food for sale especially the meat stalls – intestines, pigs feet, pigs heads and the rest totally unrecognosable. Other stalls sell barbequed frogs, chicken feet, whole skewered fish and fresh vegetable dishes piled high on metal trays. We find a free table where we order chicken drumsticks and sticky rice. Nearby a poor ragged man is playing a homemade stringed instrument – we put money in his bowl.

Later we decide to head back down to our quiet part of town but soon Mark realises that our bike has a flat tyre. A helpful local man tells us ‘you go down there’ presumably where we can have it repaired but we can’t see anything. So we set off with me walking and Mark pushing the bike. Later we ask a lady if she knows anywhere we can get it fixed.  She says ‘follow me’ and takes us to a guy who says ‘no hab’. We ask him to pump it with air anyway hoping it will get us home. The lady says ‘go guesthouse. Go, go!’ So cute. We jump on and take off but in no time it’s flat again so I’m walking and Marks is pushing. Finally we’re home so Mark returns the bike while I dump our purchases in our room.

It’s still only early so we try to get into the nearby tiny Storytelling Theatre but it’s full tonight. Instead we walk around to the Victoria Hotel for ‘happy hour’. This place is stunning with lots of old world charm but, for some reason, with very few guests around. This means we find prized seats on the balcony facing the Mekong. Happy Hour is very ‘happy’ with two perfect margaritas for me and Beer Lao for Mark. We love hanging out in these expensive 5 star places while we stay for a fraction of the price nearby. But seriously I can’t imagine how any of the rooms here could beat our pretty villa.

About to leave, we come across a film being shown on a big screen in the garden. Quite a few people are here so we decide to stay and watch. This is a documentary filmed in 1927 called Chang: A Drama of the Wilderness’. This black and white classic is about a Lao family living in the jungles of Siam and their relationship with elephants. Brilliant, especially that it’s being shown here on this warm and starry night.

Later we wander around the little streets loving the mix of traditional Lao design and French colonial architecture – Parisian bakeries, bars, cafes, restaurants, shops, guesthouses and galleries are all housed in these stunning old European-built villas. Like Cambodia and Vietnam, Laos came under French rule during the colonial period. Although the French government gave up its protectorate status in 1946, remnants of this European legacy can be found throughout the old city of Luang Prabang.

Hungry again we wander around to the Silk Road Restaurant for a fish dinner then next door to the Motorcycle Bar for Bacardis and Beer Lao.

A brilliant day!

Sunday 11th November, 2018

Luang Prabang

I’m up at 5am again so I can watch the monks on their alms round. From one window in our room I can look down into the monastery where young monks are washing ready for their rounds.  Mark decides to stay in bed so I set off in the dark on my own.

I wait just opposite the temple to see the monks walk out in single file while the faithful gain brownie points by donating food and other gifts. Meanwhile the monks stop now and again to perform their hypnotic chant. After their rounds, the monks will return to the monastery where they’ll have breakfast at 6am then have their last meal of the day around noon. 

I love this so much but now I just want to go back to bed and have another quick nap before breakfast. Unbelievably this comes with the price of our room. In the leafy courtyard downstairs we’re served baguettes, omelets, chopped fresh fruit and tea and coffee.

It’s so relaxing here but we plan to hire another motor bike and head out of town. Around the corner we find another bike which hopefully won’t get a flat. Taking off through the quiet streets of the old city, we set off in the direction of Tad Sea Falls, which are about twelve miles south of town. Out here in the countryside a mist rolls in and it’s a bit cool on the bike. The road is tarred but very windy so we don’t go too fast.

After twenty minutes we turn off the main road onto an unpaved road, which after last night’s rain, is now a muddy mess. And the mud isn’t normal mud, it’s a sticky, clayey mud that builds up on the bike’s tyres which means we’re soon sliding across the road like a hovercraft. And like on a bike in Laos a couple of years ago, we’re thrown arse-over-head and both end up on the road in the mud. Neither of us is hurt because we were going so slowly but no way can we continue on the bike, so Mark pushes while I walk. But this isn’t a great idea either because the mud glues itself to the bottom of our shoes and after a few steps I’m three inches taller – ha ha. We continually stop to scrape off the mud so it’s a long, slow walk to the small village of Bak En.

It’s here that we need to catch a boat to reach Tad Sea Falls (pronounced Tatsa). Small stalls have been set up selling corn on the cob, whole river fish on bamboo skewers, sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves and drinks. Here we pay a small entrance fee which includes the boat ride. We’ve brought a bag of children’s clothes from home to give to village people so I hand it to one of the ladies sitting on a bamboo bench with her friends.

Longtail boats are pulled up on the riverbank below so we jump in one of them with a couple of local ladies. Soon we’re chugging north for only about fifteen minutes before pulling into the opposite bank. A path leads through thick trees and stands of bamboo and, wow, there are elephants!

And the falls themselves are very beautiful. These don’t attract as many tourists as Kouangsi Falls which we visited in 2001 with Julie and Steve so it’s much more relaxing. The falls aren’t very high but rather a series of wide steps that cascade towards a deep lower pool.

First we have a cup of tea in the café which is built over the water and reached by a small suspension bridge – stunning! Now we wander over to the elephants and decide to have a ride – can’t resist in this lovely setting. We’re taken along a pretty pathways and end up at the pools where our elephant wades through.

Before leaving we both have a swim in the crystal clear lower pool which luckily doesn’t have the creepy flesh eating fish we experienced at the Erawan Falls in Thailand in 2015.

Back in the boat we set off towards Bak En village but the motor conks out half way. So now Mark and the driver are paddling – love these funny experiences! A rescue boat turns up so we head for shore where we swap boats and are soon back in the village. As we walk up the bank the lady who I’d give the clothes to hands me back the bag. She thought she was just minding it for me but I say ‘children’s clothes for you’. She finally understands and the other ladies gather around and share out the clothes. By the time we leave the kids are already wearing them.

We’ve taken a while to leave because I’m too scared to get back on the bike and I’m hoping to get a lift out onto the main road. No luck so we decide to brave it but we do walk the bike through the muddiest bits. Such a relief to reach the tarred road that will take us back to Luang Prabang.

It’s time for lunch by now so we find a simple place selling bowls of noodle soup full of fresh vegetables then spend the afternoon roaming around this lovely river town.  Luang Prabang is deservedly a UNESCO listed heritage town where beautifully preserved colonial architecture dates back to the days of Indo-China all set on the narrow peninsular surrounded by rivers on three sides. Stone stairways link monasteries and palaces while small ferries link both sides of the Mekong. On the Nam Khan side we see people tending tiny riverside gardens and village people are bathing in the water.

On dark we decide to head down to the markets near Mount Phousi which is the town’s highest and only hill. We’d climbed the 300 steps to the top many years ago so we opt for drinks in one of the many bars in this part of town. And, yes, ‘Country Roads’ is playing. We run into Anna and Herman who tell us of a cheap place they’re staying in nearby so we think we’ll move tomorrow to have a different experience.

Right now we’re not enjoying the touristy atmosphere here so we ride back to our quiet traditional area. Back at the Victoria Hotel we settle in for cocktails – mohitos and margaritas – then more drinks on our lovely balcony off our room at Khoi Xieng Thong Villa – go to bed!

Monday 12th November, 2018

Luang Prabang

This morning we drive down to the place that Anna and Herman recommended. It’s just off the river on the Mekong side in a cute, crooked alleyway with guesthouses facing each other, so close we can almost touch the one opposite. We reserve a room at the Soutikone 1 Guesthouse then Mark ferries our bags in a couple of trips.

The Soutikone is a tiny place completely lined with polished wood. Our room even has a tiny balcony and a view of the river so we’re more than happy.

We’ve never explored the north bank of the Mekong so we drive down to the ferry wharf. The ferry is a flat bottomed punt and is already packed with people on motor bikes. We find a spot and in no time we’re on the opposite bank. It’s a pretty place with lots of goats crazily running around like all goats do. The only problem is the muddy tracks (yes, it rained again last night) and we’re not keen on falling off again so we don’t stay too long.

Back in Luang Prabang we have one hour massages at the Red Cross on the edge of town which is in the same building as it was seventeen years ago.

On dusk we find our favourite riverside bar to watch the sun setting and the river traffic sliding past. This town is magic. Later we ride down to the Storytelling Theatre and buy tickets for tonight’s performance. This is called Garavek and is set in a tiny building a quiet leafy side street. We have front row seats in the cosy theatre which probably only holds about twenty people. A talented young man tells local Lao myths, legends, and folk tales while an ancient old man plays a traditional instrument we’ve never seen before. What an experience!

More wandering around the streets, peeking into temples where monks are chanting then a bar crawl before heading home to bed. Another great day.

Tuesday 13th November, 2018

Luang Prabang to Chiang Mai

Last night we changed our plan which had been to take a boat up the Mekong to cross into Thailand up near Chiang Rai. We’ve already experienced the boat thing and we’re running out of days so our new plan is to fly directly to Chiang Mai and catch the overnight train to Bangkok.

The flight isn’t till midday so we spend the morning along the riverbank, eat breakfast in an old French villa, visit an art gallery and I have my hair washed and dried.

At 10.30am we catch a taxi to the airport and run into Hans who’s heading for Chiang Mai as well. The airline is Lao Aviation which we flew from here to Vientienne in 2001. It was a terrifying flight on a very small plane but today’s flight is really nice.

At Chiang Mai Airport we catch a taxi into the Old City, dropping Hans off at his hotel on the way. We plan to meet him for drinks tonight.

The Old City is, of course, the original settlement of Chiang Mai built in 1296 and was surrounded by walls and moats to protect it from its nearby enemies. Our taxi passes remnants of the walls and gates, especially the main Thapae Gate, and follows the moat that still marks the edge of the Old City. It’s still the cultural heart of Chiang Mai but a thousand years ago it must have been a magical, exotic place full of temples, merchants, soldiers and even elephants.

But for now, Mark and I need to find somewhere to stay. For ages we drag our packs through the laneways and come across the incredible Baan Boo Loo.

This would have to be the most amazing Thai place we’ve ever seen! Made up of a series of old teak houses joined together and set on stilts in a lush garden. All the rooms are fitted with teak furnishings and woven Thai fabrics. The dining/kitchen/reception area has a vast beamed ceiling held up by huge tree trunks and lined with ancient latticed panelling painted a deep turquoise. I’m trying to absorb it all and take photos from every angle.

Of course, Mark loves it too and we decide we’ll stay here no matter what the price – just hope we can get a room. Things look up when we’re served iced drinks and a bowl of chopped fruit. But no, they’re full tonight – we’ll definitely book ahead next trip.

This means lugging our bags along more laneways looking for another place to stay. We come across Smile Guesthouse, a cheap place with a cute exterior but he rooms couldn’t be any plainer. No worries, we’re only here for a night. So now we’re hungry and find an atmospheric café opposite one of the many wats – there are over two hundred in Chiang Mai! The café is run by a friendly lady with buck teeth. She’s got the whole thing down pat with fresh fruit juices, curries served in clay pots and the entire cafe filled with an eclectic mix of Buddhist statues, silk hangings, paper umbrellas, potted plants and table lamps lighting up dark corners. We love it and once again I try to take it all in.

Back to our room for our usual afternoon nap then meet Hans at six o’clock at John’s Place – an old favourite. We have a few drinks on the bottom floor while three young Thai ladies perform a traditional dance. Later we all wander across the road to a narrow street lined with bars and simple restaurants. This is where old Western men come to pick up a Thai lady and there’s no shortage of either. We find a high table facing the street and have lots of laughs with the girls working here. They know that Mark is with me but, being a single man, Hans is fair game. It’s all good fun.

Hans heads back to his hotel about eleven but Mark and I have one more drink at John’s Place, this time on the rooftop bar.  

Wednesday 14th November, 2018

Chiang Mai

With another hot day dawning, we’re up early for cold showers. Today we plan to spend the whole time sightseeing then catch the overnight train back to Bangkok. First is breakfast in a rustic café near our guesthouse – fruit and yoghurt for me plus muesli and yoghurt for Mark. Health freaks!

We’ve already made up our day packs so we head for the temples. The main ones in the Old City are very close to each other so we don’t have to walk too far – I hate walking!  And they’re all active temples, meaning that worshippers come and go all day to pray, light candles and burn incense.

Wat Phakhao is the first one we come across on Ratchapakhinai Road. It’s a small, quiet Buddhist temple with the interior ornately decorated in red and gold, and the exterior flanked by lovely gardens at the moment decorated with colourful lanterns, paper umbrellas and tinsel hanging from the spreading trees.

Nearby is Wat Chedi Luang, one of Chiang Mai’s most important temples and built in 1391. Also called ‘Temple of the Great Stupa’, because of the massive and very impressive chedi (pagoda), it dominates the whole area. Interestingly, in 1468,  the most important and revered Buddha image in Thailand, the emerald buddha, was installed here where it remained for a century before being moved to Luang Prabang then finally Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok. This is our favourite because it’s so different to all the other wats we’ve seen.

Another completely different temple is just next door. This is Wat Phan Tao, another very old temple built towards the end of the 14th century. The teak wood viharn was originally used as a palace throne hall and is one of the few remaining all wooden structures of its sort in Chiang Mai.

It’s here in the grounds that we have the wonderful experience of talking to the monks. These ‘Monk Chats’ are win-win because the monks practice their English speaking skills while we learn about their culture, beliefs and lifestyle. I love ‘my’ monk and I think Mark is jealous!

Now it’s time for a snack in a cute café called Into The Woods – a bit more upmarket than we’re used to – then a one hour Thai massage at the Women’s Massage Center By Ex-Prisoners. This was started in 2014 to help rehabilitate female prisoners, many of who leave prison with little or no financial resources at all – a great cause.

For lunch we grab a tuktuk to take us to the Rachamankha Hotel, still inside the Old City walls. This is where Janet and Raol stay when they come to Thailand – super expensive – so we want to check it out and have lunch as well.  Rachamankha Hotel is one of the leading luxury boutique hotels in Chiang Mai but it sits quietly tucked away in a small laneway. The design is inspired by the 11th century B.C Chinese dwellings, from which Northern Thai architecture apparently has its roots. The interior is described as having ‘Zen-like simplicity and sophistication’ creating a calming atmosphere. We love it and feel transported back in time. The dining room has a vaulted ceiling with dark wooden beams while the floor is cool polished concrete. One wall opens up onto a pretty courtyard, garden and pond. All the tables have white linen cloths and bowls of fresh roses – very posh. The prawn dishes are expensive but amazing – so worth the splurge!

Time now for a rest in our room and final pack for our overnight train trip tonight. At five o’clock we catch a taxi to the lovely Chiang Mai Railway Station and board the train for a 6pm departure.

I don’t know how many times we’ve caught this train between Chiang Mai and Bangkok, and vice versa, but we’ve loved it ever since our first trip in 1997 – 21 years ago! We’ve learnt to avoid the air-conditioned carriages as we much prefer the open windows so we can look back to see the train snaking around the bends in this mountainous area and also feel the breeze that keeps us cool. Open windows also mean that we can see, hear and smell the countryside and the goings on at the tiny train stations we pull into every now and again. Mark falls in love with one of these little stations and we vow to come back one day to check out the area.

As night closes in, the long shadows of dusk fall across the hills and rice paddies – we never tire of this lovely scenery. About eight o’clock out bunks are made up with crisp white sheets, blankets and curtains for privacy and we turn in for an early night to be rocked to sleep by the endless swaying of the train – heaven!

Thursday 15th November, 2018

Chiang Mai to Bangkok

We’re up very early to clean our teeth and shove everything back into our big packs. At 6am we pull into Hualamphong Station in the middle of Bangkok then jump into one of the many waiting taxis and head straight for Banglamphu.

In Soi Rambutri we get dropped off to find somewhere to stay. Being this early it’s very quiet but still plenty of places open for breakfast. Now we walk around to Thanon Rambutri and come across Villa Cha Cha. We love it instantly with its very Thai Reception area which opens up onto a lovely pool and internal garden. And besides this, it’s cheap – only $25 a night for a nice room, ensuite, air-con and fridge.

All is great until Mark says ’where’s the black backpack?’ That’ll be the black backpack with all our documents, passports, medications and, worse, my makeup! It’s the pack that I carry around and I know I had it when we got in the taxi. We hope that we left it at the breakfast café so I race back around to Soi Rambutri. It’s not there!

Now the only other option is that I left it in the taxi. Do you know how many taxis there are in Bangkok? We race around to the Tourist Police Station to report it to a very bored police guy who cares less! Fucking useless.

Now Mark had the idea of going back to the Station to see if the taxi went straight back there. He actually remembers the colour of the taxi and the colour of the shirt the driver as wearing! In the meantime I’m to wait where we were dropped off in case the driver finds it and comes back to return it – as if!

So for the next hour I wait in the front of an open fronted café and research how to get to the Australian Embassy so we can apply for new passports – it will apparently take two hours to get there! FUUUCK!

Meanwhile Mark has told his taxi driver the story and he’s so lovely. When they get to Hualamphong Station he takes Mark inside to the security office which has walls of CCTV screens showing every area including the taxi stands. These guys are really helpful too and go back through the videos till they find us getting off the overnight train and then getting into the taxi. By zooming in on the number plate they get a few numbers and letters and by a process of elimination they find the exact one. The Security guy rings the taxi driver and demands that he take it to the Tourist Police Station in Banglamphu.

Here the ‘I don’t give a fuck’ cop is all gush and smiles and wants his photo taken with Mark and the backpack like he’d solved the bloody thing himself.

In the meantime I’m just waiting for Mark to come back empty handed but when the taxi pulls up in front of the café, I can’t believe it – I can see that Mark has a black strap over his shoulder! Unbelievable! We try to give the lovely taxi driver money for all his help and kindness but he won’t take a thing except some hugs. What a sweetheart!

The really weird thing is that neither Mark nor I had got ourselves too stressed over it all. If our passports were lost then they were lost and we’d just have to deal with it. And, of course, Mark never said a thing about it being my fault – my darling.

But now we’re on a huge high and after booking into Villa Cha Cha we spend the day just hanging out, swimming in the pool, eating from street stalls and having massages. Of course we have our massages at Pink, our favourite little place around here – the girls always remember us. And Mark finally gets a haircut and a shave – goodbye Kenny Rogers and hello my beautiful handsome husband – he looks 20 years younger!

On dark we wind our way through the tiny alleyways to Khao San Road where we buy a t-shirt for Steve Leonard with a weird photo of him on the front and hang it up with all the other tshirts. We post it with our other pics on Facebook to see if he notices – childish but funny!

Later we do our usual restaurant and bar hopping. We love this place!

Friday 16th November, 2018


Another gorgeous sunny day in Bangkok. Up early, we wander around the alleyways and buy bottles of fresh passionfruit juice then jump in a tuktuk to take us to Wat Mahatat where we burn incense for Angie. We’ve been here countless times to this very old temple. In fact it was built in the 18th century, even before the founding of Bangkok in 1782. Today, it’s the headquarters of the Mahanikai school of Buddhism, Thailand’s largest monastic order so there are always lots of monks hanging around.  

Across the road is the Mahatat Amulet Market which is a dense network of covered market stalls which sell thousands and thousands of tiny sacred amulets that Thai people buy for all sorts of reasons – mainly for protection or to ward off evil spirits. We have lots of amulets that we’ve bought here in the past but we’ve also bought many large bronze Buddha statues and ceramic jars. Today we buy two big ginger jars to add to our collection.

As we always do, we also eat at one of the simple little restaurants that overlook the Chao Praya – the food is cooked in front of us and is incredibly cheap as this is really a locals-only area. We never see any farangs at all which is why the statues and ceramics are so cheap as well. 

Another tuktuk back to Soi Rambutri we have pedicures at Pink and a massage at the lovely little place next to Madame Masur. After an afternoon nap we head back to Madame Masur for dinner of satay chicken with beers and margaritas.

We decide to check out a different area tonight so we head towards the Fort where we see a crocodile on a spit roast – no kidding – then have a lovely time at the very rustic

Thon Buri Bar run by a very handsome Bob Marley look alike complete with long dreds piled up on his head. Of course, Bob Marley music is playing as well.

Back around in Khao San Road Mark buys a scorpion to eat – I’ll pass – then we have t-shirts made for all our trivia crew with a photo of us all dressed up in Hawaiian gear one night at the Greenroof years ago. They look awesome!

Saturday 17th November, 2018

Bangkok to Singapore

Our last full day in Bangkok, we spend the early morning around Wat Chana Songkhram Ratchaworamahawihan next to Soi Rambutri. We’ve been here so many times we like to think of it as ‘our’ temple. It’s always busy with worshippers making offering of flowers and burning incense and candles. Others are sitting inside in front of the giant golden Buddha and today there is some sort of ceremony happening. In the open sided buildings around the temple we see young monks having lessons while nuns in white robes prepare food and floral offerings.

Now we set off for one of our favourite places in Bangkok – the Taling Chan floating market in Thonburi. At the Phra Athit Pier we hire a longtail boat to take us across the busy Chao Praya River then enter the klongs (canals) of Thonburi. The difference between the hustle of Bangkok and this peaceful side of the river is immediately obvious.

Thonburi was once was the capitol of Siam and for centuries was an agricultural area filled with canals and fruit orchards. Canals still wind between homes on stilts, temples, orchard farms and old wooden shops where buyers arrive in boats or canoes. There are also floating “shops” with vendors paddling up-and-down to sell souvenirs or to cook you a meal from scratch in the bottom of their tiny boat.

We love it here as we see huge monitor lizards sunbaking on the river’s edge and pass people washing in the river or waving from their balconies built over the water. It’s nice to see that the traditional Thai way of living still exists here – probably won’t last for long. 

We eventually pull up at the Taling Chan floating market and jump out onto the wooden floating dock where low tables are set up and everyone sits on the floor to eat. Wooden boats are moored along the dock where ladies are cooking seafood on small barbecues and a group of Thai traditional musicians play on the riverbank.

It’s nice to know that the market sells products from farmers living close by – such as fresh vegetables, fruit, prawns, crabs and fish – and helps to preserve the way of life for the people in this area. We choose huge prawns which are cooked in garlic and sit with locals on the wooden deck.

Back to Banglamphu for our last night in Bangkok. We have the usual massages at Pink, drink beer and cocktails and do a bit of last minute shopping.

Sunday 18th November, 2018

Bangkok to Singapore to Sydney

Today we fly to Singapore on Scoot with a four hour stopover then home to Sydney

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Southern Myanmar 2019

Our Itinerary
      29/10/2019  Tues  Sydney 10am to Bangkok 3.30pm
30/10/2019WedBangkok 7.25pm to Yangon
1/11/2019FriYangon to Kinpun to Mt Kyaiktiyo
2/11/2019SatKinpun to Hpa-An
3/11/2019SunHpa-An to Mawlamyine
4/11/2019MonMawlamyine to Bilu Island to Mawlamyine
5/11/2019TuesMawlamyine to Ye
6/11/2019WedYe to Dawei
7/11/2019Thurs Dawei to Maughmagan Beach
8/11/2019FriMaughmagan to Dawei to Kanchanburi (Thailand)
9/11/2019SatKanchanburi to Bangkok
12/11/2019TuesBangkok 5.50pm to
13/11/2019WedSydney 7.10am

Monday 28th October, 2019

 Newcastle to Sydney

We both have a busy day at work (me at Aruma and Mark at JSA). Mark also has a late meeting so we can’t catch the train till after five o’clock arriving in Sydney at 8pm. We have dinner with Tam at Jillian and Michael’s then a few drinks before an early night.

Tuesday 29th October, 2019

 Sydney to Bangkok

 After a 5.45am alarm we’re soon walking down to Museum Station under clear blue skies. The airport train gets us to the International Airport in fifteen minutes where we check in at Thai Airways. With the usual three hour wait, we buy Bacardi, eat McDonalds, use the massage chairs, ring Jackie and Facetime Lauren and the Dollies.

We have two squashed seats in the middle row and no leg room for the nine hour flight, but we’re off to Asia so we’re happy. Mark is extra happy watching Season 8 of Game of Thrones.

We land at 3pm at Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport (which means ‘Golden Land’ by the way) and are speeding in a taxi towards the Old City in no time. We’ve booked a little guesthouse I saw online – because I loved the look of it – one of the old timber guesthouses that are quickly being replaced by high rise hotels. This is the Laksameenarai Guesthouse set in an alleyway behind Khao San Road. We’ve stayed all around this area of Banglamphu but not in this little laneway.

The Laksameenarai is an old teak house painted yellow and green with lots of lattice work and wooden shutters. Our room is off a shady side garden with our own tiny bathroom and even air-con for $45 AUD. Even better is that the garden opens onto the empty block next door overgrown with lush tropical plants. This is our heaven already!

After dumping our gear we cross over to Soi Rambutri, our favourite soi in all Bangkok. Not much has changed although it seems quieter than usual. Here is Sawadee House and here is Pink, our much-loved massage place. It’s painted a hot pink with laid back chairs outside so we settle in for foot massages with our old friends. We’ve been coming here for years! Someone races off to buy Mark a beer so we feel very spoilt.

Now we hang out at Madam Masur’s, a rustic café just along the soi. Mark has Tom Yum Goong and I have chicken satay skewers washed down with beers and Margaritas. Later we walk up to Thanon Rambutri and Khao San Road but it’s too crazy so we head back to our little laneway near the Laksameenarai.

Much more chilled here and we make camp at the open sided restaurant next door. This is run by a French guy so it’s popular with expats. At the moment it’s a peaceful escape from Khao San and even better when a sudden tropical downpour sends us moving further inside.

A perfect end to our first day. Bed at 9pm.

Wednesday 30th October, 2019

 Bangkok to Yangon (Myanmar)

A really good sleep in our quiet little room then up early to make the most of our day in Bangkok before we fly out to Myanmar tonight. Crossing the very busy Thanon Chakrabongse in the bright sunshine, we find one of the tiny shaded alleyways that lead from here to Soi Rambutri. All along the alleyway local people have set up basic little stalls selling just a few dishes and all cooked right here in front of us.

We watch while a friendly lady makes us a bowl of chicken green curry for just 60Baht (about $3AUD). This is the Thailand we love the most. Mark works on his phone while I wander up to Sanam Luang then we both head for Soi Rambutri. The Wild Orchid is being renovated so we find a cute new bakery called Like Italy Cafe on Thanon Phra Arthit for Mark to have his morning coffee. On the bend near the Fort he has a haircut ($5) and a shave ($3) at his usual barber.

Mark still has a few work phone calls to make so we hang out in the park by the river – the Chao Praya. I come across a couple of trendy restaurants across a small arched bridge over the klong (canal). These are colourful places set up in old Thai teak houses and we know we’ll be back here for sure. We just hope that these tranquil, leafy pockets of traditional Bangkok don’t get swallowed up by new developments.  

We ask about getting a boat up the klong but we don’t have enough time and put it on the list for next time now that we know where to come. Instead we wander around the Soi 1 area where we’ve stayed many times before. This is a pretty local neighbourhood of shady trees and teak houses where everyone cooks on the footpath.

Popping back out onto Thanon Chakrabongse, we come across a funky little place painted in a rainbow of colours with almost every inch of the walls covered in travellers’ messages written in black texta. The crazy old owner hands us a pen and we add our own message that we’ll check out next time we’re back in Bangkok. She tells us that things are very quiet and she has ‘no money’ so she’s very happy that we order pineapple and mango shakes and promise to come back.

It’s time to check out of the Laksameenarai where we store our bags in the foyer till we leave for the airport later this afternoon. Now we have time for a massage upstairs at Pink then buy chicken skewers from a street cart in the temple grounds. This is all so familiar and feels like home.

We chat to a taxi driver in the laneway and arrange for him to pick us up at 4pm to drive us to the airport. Now because we’re just about melting from the heat and humidity we find an air-conditioned place where we order wanton soup and Mark has a beer and I have a watermelon shake. The Thais really know how to make a great shake. We’re entertained by the owner’s naughty, cheeky little girl – oh no, we miss our good Dollies already!

We still have time to be pampered at Pink – I have a hair wash and blow dry then we both have leg massages – all for a pittance!

At 4pm we meet our taxi driver and speed out to Suvarnabhumi Airport for our 7.30 pm Nok Air flight. It’s dark when we take off into a sky lit up by lightning – another tropical storm but all is well and the flight is only an hour and a half.

Myanmar is 30 minutes behind Bangkok so we wind back our watches. This also means that it’s only 8pm here in Yangon so plenty of time to head out for a drink. Mark withdraws money at the airport then we find a taxi to drive us into the city passing the brightly lit Shwedagon Pagoda that we’ll visit tomorrow.

We notice some changes that have happened in the capital since we were here fifteen years ago. The main street is lined with lots of modern buildings but the old Yangon still exists especially as we turn off into the backstreets where our guesthouse sits just around the corner from the famous Sule Paya which is glowing in the dark on a sort of giant roundabout.

And we love the Okinawa. It’s set in a narrow quiet street and has oodles of atmosphere – a vine covered entrance, dark wooden walls, Persian style carpets, a steep little staircase and cute coloured glass windows in our room – all for $15 a night with breakfast.

After booking in with the owner, who seems a bit clueless, we have a quick change then set off towards Sule Paya where we hail a taxi to take us to 50th Street Bar and Grill. We’d been talking about this with Jillian and Tamara who’d been here years ago after we told them to check it out. It’s still the same upmarket place surrounded by rundown houses in a dirt laneway. We take photos to send to Jillian and order chicken wings and nachos. Mark drinks Mojitos and I have too many Margaritas. I’ve definitely have had too much to drink and nag the poor taxi driver to death all the way home about not having seatbelts. Sorry about that.  

A good sleep in out tiny air-conditioned room.

Thursday 31st October, 2019


At 8am we’re having breakfast outside on the street – fried eggs, sweet toast and powdered tea and coffee – pretty awful so we’ll eat somewhere else soon.

Our street is busy this morning with small stalls set up along the walls of the old buildings and people setting down baskets of vegetables that they’ve carried on the ends of bamboo poles balanced on their shoulders.

We plan to catch a train from here to Kinpun tomorrow and the word is that we need to book a couple of days in advance so we hope we can still buy our tickets today.

If there has been some modernization of Yangon in the last fifteen years, the Myanmar Railways Booking Office is still in the same appealing basic, shabby building as before. It’s more like a farm yard with chickens scratching around and there are no signs in English but a helpful local man soon comes to our aid. For a measly $2.40AUD each, we now have Luxury Class tickets for the five hour trip to Kyaikato (pronounced Chaido) leaving early tomorrow morning.  

We spend a pleasant hour drifting around the streets. Myanmar was a former British colony and is covered in traditional architecture that still looks gorgeous even if very rundown.

The plan now is to find Bogyoke Market but we get lost despite asking directions, and end up catching a taxi. The Bogyoke Aung San Market was once called the Scott Market by the British who actually built it in 1926 during the British colonial period – maybe named after a relative?  

Here we eat in a funny food hall sort of thing and buy our lunch from a shouting lady. Despite the shouting she’s really funny especially when she tries to get the fan to work to cool us down. A couple of men come to help and it’s all hilarious!  Lunch is only $5 for two fresh pineapple juices, a coke, spring rolls and rice plus hot and sour chicken.

I suddenly need to use the loo where I have to pay 20c to a lady who unlocks a cubicle for me. We wander around the market for a while before finding another taxi to take us to Shwedagon Pagoda. This is one of the most famous pagodas in the world and the most sacred site to Burmese Buddhists.

We visited here in 2004 with the only difference is that we tourists can now enter the dramatic northern covered walkway, bustling with merchants selling anything from flowers and incense to antiques and souvenirs. We buy flowers for offerings from a very funny lady sporting bright red lips and cheeks painted with the white thanaka that most Burmese people wear. We also have to hire a shawl for me and a longhi for Mark as we’re entering a sacred place.

At the top of the staircase we burst out into the heat and sunshine and our first glimpse of Shwedagon Paya. The Pagoda is 2,600 years old, making it the oldest pagoda in the world – apparently debatable.

Words can’t really describe how really beautiful it is. On top of the main gold-plated dome is a stupa containing over 7,000 diamonds, rubies, topaz and sapphires, topped by a massive emerald positioned to reflect the last rays of the setting sun.

 We do a slow lap of the whole complex then end up with a guide who explains what it all means. He shows us how to pour water over the Buddha statue at the station or “corner” that represents the day of our birth, and to ding a few deep tonal dongs out of a huge cast-iron bell.

Outside we cross the road to buy drinks in a simple café with a dirt floor then hightail it back to the coolness of our room at Okinawa. Of course we have a nanna nap before dressing up for a night on the town. We’re semi-presentable for a change as we plan to have drinks at the very posh Strand Hotel.

Walking up to Sule Paya (also 2,500 years old) we catch a taxi to the Strand where a doorman greets us and shows us to Sarkies Bar. This was named after the Sarkies brothers who built the hotel in 1901. Lined in rich dark panelling, the bar is set up in intimate lounge areas but still good for people watching. We pretend we’re staying here and not at the budget place down the road – ha. I have a Bloody Mary for Lauren and to celebrate Halloween which is actually today! I also have a Margarita while Mark has a beer then a Myanmar Sling (a take on the Singapore Sling made famous at that other Sarkies brothers hotel, Raffles.) Dinner is chicken caesar salad and fish and chips.

Mark has been googling other places to have a drink so we set off in another taxi to 7th Street where we find a string of trendy bars all decorated in spider webs and hanging skeletons for Halloween. The staff are dressed up in black robes with white painted faces and we have a ball. First at the Bob Marley Bar then the Cuba Bar which has an excellent live band. The staff are super friendly and make us free Halloween drinks – bright blue with dry ice to give a ‘scary’ look.

But we don’t stay out too late, though, as we want to be good for our early start in the morning.

Friday 1st November, 2019

Yangon to Kinpun

The alarm wakes us at 5.30am then after a quick pack we’re walking up to Sule Paya in the early morning light to catch a taxi to the railway station. Here we buy water and some snacks before settling in to our luxury compartment. ‘Luxury’ might be a bit of a stretch but it probably means that we have padded seats instead of the usual hard wooden benches. But it’s still wonderfully basic with no air-conditioning, just wide open windows. To make it even better our travel companions include a couple of monks and only local people – no Westerners here and we really feel like this is the start of our southern Myanmar adventure.

The train pulls out at 6am, slowly trundling past shacks built right up to the tracks where people live in the most basic of conditions.

Soon the city gives way to rice paddies and small thatched villages where we wave to the local kids. Behind pastures dotted with hay stacks and people ploughing the fields, golden payas shine in the morning sunshine. We see all kinds of animals – cows, ducks, chickens, goats, water buffalo and even oxen pulling carts.

This is truly my favourite thing about travel – chugging through the countryside watching local life go by through the open carriage windows.  Small wooden huts built along river banks, ponds covered in lily pads and pink flowering water lilies, bamboo fences, palm trees and vegetable gardens. All this while hawkers with baskets on their heads walk up and down the aisles selling birds eggs and other Burmese delicacies that I know I couldn’t stomach. We do buy mandarins and hot corn on the cob.

The atmosphere is so nice with local families, the monks and a man sitting opposite singing the whole way. Our seats also recline so Mark has a snooze as the green curtains billow in the breeze – did I say this is heaven?!

At 9.15am we pull into Bago where we spent two wonderful days all those years ago. We’re 45 minutes late and Mark makes a quick calculation that we’ve been averaging a speed of 30kph – ha. In Bago we buy watermelon and a sweet lady gives me a mandarin. We give her little girl a toy koala.

Off again we see kids riding pushbikes in immaculate school uniforms of white shirts and green longyis. They all have thanaka on their faces as do everyone else in this rural area. The scenery is still lovely with grains laid out to dry in the sun, small horses and lots of goats. More hawkers sell us fruit and water but we pass on the bugs.

As we approach Kyaiktho, we see a huge sitting Buddha in the distance then pull into the cute station around noon – only an hour longer than the scheduled five hours which apparently is pretty good going.

We’re not staying in Kyaiktho but heading for Kinpun which is the closest town to the Golden Rock – the reason we’re here! But more about that later.

Now we jump into the back of a truck with a group of ladies and a monk for the twenty minute ride to Kinpun. Here we unload our backpacks and ask directions to the Golden Sunrise Hotel. We find a lift with a guy riding a motorbike with a sort of homemade sidecar big enough to hold us and our bags.

And the hotel is a nice surprise considering how cheap it is. The reception is in a large thatched open sided building with the restaurant in another thatched area surrounded by gorgeous gardens of palms and pink bougainvillea. Our room is big with air-conditioning and set in a lovely bungalow with a verandah that has views of the Golden Rock way up on top of the mountain where we’ll be headed this afternoon.

But first we need to eat so I order fish and chips while Mark has a very spicy Thai chicken soup. With cold soda waters with fresh lime, friendly service and the lovely open-air restaurant, we’re more than happy here.

Later we walk into town to seek out the bus station where the trucks leave for Kyaiktiyo Pagoda (or The Golden Rock). It’s the only way to get up there as other traffic is banned on the narrow winding road.  I’ve read about these trucks and how they squeeze as many people in as they can. It’s true – we’re jammed into the front row which is not a good thing as we can’t see the road but are inches away from the truck’s cabin. The heat is stifling and it’s a crazy rollercoaster ride up the mountain. We stop somewhere to buy ice blocks that I put on my forehead to cool down. I feel horribly sick so when we stop at the cable car I have to get out.

Catching a cable car doesn’t exactly scream ‘adventure’ but throwing up in a truck full of people isn’t too appealing. The cable car is proudly advertised as Myanmar’s first and it must have cost a fortune. At the moment it appears to be a bit of a lemon as we’re the only customers.

We’re the only people in this massive empty building except the staff who appear grateful to have someone to point out where we have to go. At least the views are good but the cable car ends bloody miles from The Rock and I hate walking! At least there are lots of market stalls along the way and great people watching.

Hundreds of pilgrims visit this site every day and for most of them it’s a once-in-a–lifetime experience so most people are excitedly taking photos. Some even want us to be photographed with them.

We’ve already left our shoes at the bottom of the stairs and Mark hires a longyi to cover his bare legs.

All the while we can see the Golden Rock sitting precariously on the top edge of the mountain. It’s actually a giant boulder sitting at an impossible angle but according to Buddhist legend, it’s stopped from crashing down the hill by a strand of the Buddha’s hair.

And, yes, it’s gold! The whole rock as well as the pagoda that sits on top of it are entirely covered in gold leaf. But only male pilgrims can apply the gold leaf so Mark has a turn.

We’re actually 3,600 feet above sea level and the views stretch out before us with mountains as far as we can see. Families are here having picnics while lots of people are setting up for the night. Many pilgrims sleep on the ground near the pagoda and porters are carrying up family belongings in tall cane baskets.

We stop at the Mountain View Hotel then I have a photo taken in a sedan chair carried by four men who are happy when we give them $1 each. Back down in the cable car at 4pm because we’d stupidly bought Return tickets. Stupid because every truck going past has already been filled up at the top of the mountain! We hang out in an open area where a school bus soon drops off the village kids. Here are a row of simple shops and cafes so all we can do is to wait for one of the last buses to leave the top and will have some room left for us.

Finally two hours later at nearly six o’clock and just on dark, we’re picked up for the thirty minute drive down the mountain. A pretty pink sunset is ahead of us with an illuminated Sitting Buddha on a far mountain.  This is better than the ride up as it’s much cooler and we’re not so squashed but still bone-shaking and it’s a relief to reach Kinpun.

Walking through town there doesn’t seem to be anywhere interesting to eat so we decide to go back to the hotel where we know the food is good. Mark has beef in black bean while I have satay skewers with rice and fries. Mark drinks Mandalay beer while they actually sell coke and soda to drink with my smuggled in Bacardi.

More drinks in the gorgeous reception so we can use the wifi then bed at 10pm.

Saturday 2nd November, 2019

Kinpun to Hpa-An

Wake at 7.30 am when we send Abi a photo of Mark wearing her pink satin sleep mask that we found in our backpack. It must have been left after our last holiday with them. She thinks it’s hilarious!

Breakfast comes with the price of our room – pancakes with honey, watermelon, bananas, tea and coffee, toast, cheese and fruit juice.

We’d arranged to have someone pick us up this morning to take us into Kyaiktho where we’ll then catch a bus to Hpa-An.

While we wait in Reception, we ring the Dollies – Abi says ‘Pa you stole my eye mask!’ Oh we love you Abi!

A songthaew arrives at 8.45am with some local ladies already on board and, of course, wearing thanaka on their cheeks, for the thirty minute drive into Kyaiktho. We actually aren’t sure if we’re going all the way to Hpa-An this way but we’re eventually dropped in town at a tiny travel agent. Apparently a bus will come but we don’t know when and no-one else seems to know as well.

But we’ve learnt after years of travel in Asia to just go with it and all will be well. Meanwhile, we just hang out on the pavement with a couple of German girls who are just as clueless as we are. I give money to a nun while Mark buys a coffee from a tiny café. We also buy a silver alms bowl, brass chimes and a maroon monk’s robe as souvenirs.

Finally the 9am bus arrives at 11am – it’s packed so we need to climb over the aisle jammed with boxes to reach the back seat –  a Burmese movie is playing on the overhead screen – apparently a comedy and very loud. We have a cute baby girl opposite so we give her a toy koala while we listen to a Casefile podcast to keep us occupied for the rest of the trip.

We arrive at Hpa-An (pronounced Pah-Ann) at 1.45pm. It’s a picturesque little town on the eastern bank of the Thanlwin River and with views of dramatic karst mountains that jut up out of the surrounding plains. We grab a tuktuk to take us to the Galaxy Hotel which has good reviews on Tripadvisor. Our room is very clean, big, simple and with air-con. We have single beds so Mark pushes them together. The staff is very helpful so we book a market tour for tonight.

But now we decide to checkout Hpa-An. In nearby Zayden Road in the centre of town, we find lots of teahouses and restaurants including Lucky 1 which apparently is the only place in Hpa-An that sells alcohol! We’ll be back later, but for now we eat at Khit Thit Restaurant across the street.

I’m very happy here but even happier when I see a group of shaven headed nuns on the opposite side of the road on their alms rounds. They all wear soft pink robes over an inner red robe and brown sashes over one shoulder.

We follow them through the market and they giggle shyly as they line up for photos. The market is very traditional with local fruit and vegetables for sale – flowers, bananas, tomatoes, watermelon, fish, meat and poultry – very smelly with lots of flies! Mark buys a longyi.

Later we rest in our Galaxy room then Mark dresses up in his monk robes – ha!

On dusk, we meet the German girls downstairs as they’re also booked in for the Night Market tour – only $10 each and all we can eat. At seven o’clock our guide, Veja, arrives. He’s a friendly young man who piles us into the Galaxy jumbo and drives us through the dark streets to the market situated on the edge of Kan Thar Yar Lake. Like all night markets, it’s very busy with loud music and lots of coloured lights and nice seeing all the happy local families.

Ladies sit on one side of a table surrounded by baskets and bowls of fresh ingredients which they whip up into their own special dish for customers who sit opposite on tiny plastic stools.

Veja stops at different stalls for us to try sticky rice in bamboo, quails’ eggs, barbeque chicken, sweet pancakes and fresh orange and pineapple juice. Everyone passes on the fried bugs but I can’t stomach anything except watermelon. I feel sick and desperate to find the public loo. Besides this, the German girls are annoyingly chirpy so we decide to head back into town.

We find a tuktuk and I feel better already as the breeze cools us down. Of course, we end up at Lucky 1. It’s like thousands of other no-frills local places all over Asia – painted cement walls, a wonky tiled floor, wooden tables covered in plastic floral cloths and mismatched plastic chairs – we love it! A couple of men have had a few too many and keep us amused while Mark downs three draught beers and me my Bacardi and coke.

By the time we walk home at 9.30pm, the street is totally deserted and all the lights are out – another early-to-bed little town.

Sunday 3rd November, 2019

Hpa-An to Mawlamyine  

We’ve set the alarm for 7am as we have a lot planned for this morning. Breakfast is in the sunny dining room downstairs with double wooden doors opening right onto the street. It’s quite a feast – a vegetable stewy things, sticky rice wrapped in leaves, milk tea, milk coffee, watermelon and pancakes. Mark eats it all but I only manage the watermelon. I wrap the pancakes up in serviettes to have as a snack for later.

Yesterday we’d booked a driver to take us on a half day tour – $45. Our driver, Jorme, meets us at 8am and we’re soon heading out of town into the beautiful countryside that Hpa-An is known for. It’s another glorious day without a cloud in the sky.

Forty five minutes later, our first stop is Kaw Ka Thaung Cave which i sa busy temple as well. Outside is very pretty with overhanging greenery, a colourful entrance, Asian music playing and ladies sitting on the ground under umbrellas. They coax us over to buy tiny turtles and fish in plastic bags. The deal is to set them free in the lake for good luck. We promise to come back after we visit the cave.

Kaw Ka Thaung Cave is spacious at first but narrows towards the back. Rows of sitting buddhas draped in yellow silky cloth sit either side of three larger buddhas where we light candles and incense for Angie – yes, our darling, you’re with us here too. We crawl through a low narrow tunnel to a smaller cave then explore the topiary gardens outside.

The ladies call us over and we buy a plastic bag of fish and one of turtles which we set free on the edge of the lake. Horrible when we see three monster eels appear out of the shadows lying in wait hoping to gobble up our poor little creatures.

Back in the car we pass the three hundred red monk statues that line the road then stop at a waterfall that runs into a little dam that devotees use for bathing. The pond is surrounded by shops and restaurants on wooden stilts – gorgeous!

From here we pass flooded rice paddies with limestone karsts in the distance. Rubber plantations soon line both sides of the road and we ask Jorme to stop so we can have a closer look. A family is working here and the old man offers to show us around. He shows us how they collect the rubber from the tree into tin cups which is then boiled and rolled into doormat sized blocks before being hung in the sun to dry. We give a donation to his wife.

Our destination now is Sadan Cave which is the biggest in the area. It must also be the most popular as we see lots of buses parked near the market at the entrance. Under tall spreading trees, thatched stalls sell mainly incense and other things for offerings as well as drinks and food. It seems to be favourite with families.

A long tiled staircase leads up to the beautiful entrance which opens into a gigantic cavern filled with buddhas and pagodas. This is huuuuge! Golden pagodas and standing buddhas covered in gold leaf are dwarfed by the vastness of the cave. We light candles and incense again for all the ones we love, here and gone.

The unique thing about Sadan Cave is that you can walk right through it under the mountain to the other side. Leaving the light filled entrance cave, we head into the gloom of the inner cave. A concrete trail, stairs and raised walkways pass huge stalactites and colonies of bats hanging from the roof. The floor is damp and slippery with bat poop but a great experience anyway.

After twenty minutes light pours in from the mouth of the cave opening onto the other side of the mountain. From the top of the stairs we can see a pretty mirror-calm lake with brightly coloured wooden canoes tied up to the little jetty. Lots of local people are hanging around with basic stalls selling fresh coconuts, drinks and food.

We hire one of the canoes to take us back to the main entrance instead of walking back through the cave. The canoe passes through a second cave so low that I think we’ll hit our heads on the roof. Inside, the cave walls are perfectly reflected on the water’s surface. Really lovely and more lovely out on the other side as we cross the lake passing canoes going the other way and a family of ducks. Beyond are more limestone karsts rising up behind emerald green rice paddies being irrigated with water from the lake through a series of small canals.

To get back to meet Jorme, it’s a short walk around the base of the mountain where mother hens and their chicks are running around. Back in the car we drive another half an hour to Kaw Ka Taung caves and pool. The temperature is sweltering by now so we can’t wait to get in the water.

But first we eat in one of the open-air restaurants next to the pool – noodles and fried rice – then change into our swimmers. Because there are lots of locals I wear a sarong as well then we both spend ages floating around in the cool water with a beautiful cliff covered in lush vegetation as a backdrop.

Our last place to visit is Kyauk Ka Lat Pagoda, a stunning limestone pinnacle topped with a golden stupa. This is set on a tiny tree-covered island in the middle of a man-made lake, itself surrounded by paddy fields. After dodging the noisy geese (I’m scared of geese), we cross a wooden foot bridge to the small island inhabited by a monastery then climb the wonky stairs to the viewpoint half way up. This place is really spectacular and a great end to our tour.

Now it’s time to race back to Hpa-An to grab our bags from the Galaxy and get down to the river to catch the local boat to Mawlamyine. The lady owner comes with us and waves us off.

We’re happy to see that it’s a simple wooden boat painted a bright blue with a roof but open sided. Hard wooden benches are sore on the arse so we’re grateful once again for our cushions we always bring with us. We use one as a pillow and share the other with the only other passengers – a friendly and very handsome Spanish couple.

The trip is only three hours and we enjoy every minute. The water is perfectly calm as we chug slowly downriver past golden temples that we can also see sparkling on the top of every ridge around us. Small boats drift by as well as an occasional noisy long-tail.

As we pull into the riverbank at Mawlamyine about 5pm, we jump out into the shallow water and almost straight into a waiting songthaew already full of people including a monk.  

The drive through town is lovely and it seems that Mawlamyine really does live up to its description as ‘the charming tropical capital of Mon State’. The British made Mawlamyine their first Burmese capital in the 1800s and many beautiful old colonial buildings still line the quiet streets.

 We’re dropped at the Golden Rose Guesthouse which looks cute from the outside but very ordinary inside with a messy foyer. The owner is sweet though and even gives us a lift to the night market.

This is situated on the bank of the Salween River with dimly lit stalls selling mainly things on skewers so we buy a few chicken ones as well as freshly made fruit juices. Most stalls seem to be run by pretty young Muslim girls with scarves covering their hair. Lots of tables and chairs have been set up next to the river so we settle in with the locals.

Later we hire a couple of guys on motor bikes to drive us to Olala Bar on Strand Road where Mark has Myanmar beer and I manage to have a couple of Margaritas. Back home on motor bikes.

Monday 4th November, 2019


Breakfast is in the top floor dining room with lovely views over the rooftops and the many tall trees and palms about town. With our usual tea and coffee we’re given watermelon and noodles with a fried egg on top.

Despite the sweet owner, I book a different hotel for tonight so we’re soon speeding off in a tuktuk to the Hotel Queen Jamadevi in the Myine Tharyar Quarter which is about three kilometres from the centre of Mawlamyine.  It’s a three star hotel which is three stars more than we’re used to but at only $40AUD a night it won’t break the bank. It’s set along a gravel road with open countryside opposite. The foyer is large and open on three sides with a vaulted ceiling lined in bamboo.

We have the choice of a room in the two storey building attached or one of the wooden bungalows in the garden. After checking out the bungalows, there’s no need to look any further. We have a wide verandah overhung by the thatched roof and the room is exotic. The bed is a thick mattress on a raised dais with a white mosquito net hung from the cathedral ceiling and the bathroom has a shower over a deep bath set into the stone floor.

The bungalow itself sits at the end of a dirt path that winds between vegetable gardens fenced off with bamboo. We really could hang out here all day but we need to meet our driver outside again as we’ve hired him to take us sight-seeing for the day.

Taking off in a tuktuk we head for Bilu Island also called ‘Ogre Island’. A new bridge crosses the Salween River to the island which is home to the Mon people, one of the many ethnic groups in Burma. The village people divide their time between farming and cottage industries which they sell to the wholesale market. There are 64 villages on Bilu so obviously we won’t have time to visit them all.

At Mu Doon village we stop at a family home to watch the husband making school slates. It takes me back and I can’t believe they’re still used in schools here. We buy one from his young wife and wonder what the hell we’re going to do with it.

The next village is the rubber band making village – no joke. This is fascinating! It takes about two days to boil the tree sap, dye it, dip it, dry it, peel it, dry it again, dice it, then hand-separate the thousands of rubber rings. We watch each step of the process all carried out by women with painted thanaka faces. The setting is lovely – under shady trees in the yard of a stilted timber house.

A few kilometres on, the next stop is to watch a family of men making scythes with wooden handles – all done by hand – no machinery here. Now we pass lily-ponds, a little lake with a pagoda in the centre and lots of market gardens. Next is the wood turning village which is really pretty consisting of houses on stilts, all built close together in laneways and amongst flowering gardens.

At one home we’re taken upstairs to watch a lady making wooden buttons. Green tea is brought out for us while we choose gifts to take home. A toothless smiling old man is sitting cross-legged on the floor near us and another lady is cooking something in the adjacent room. An elaborate family buddhist shrine is pretty with flickering candles and purple and orange flowers.

Later at another village, a lady is sitting on a cement floor making conical hats. Every material she uses is natural, all from bamboo actually – the brim plus the needles and thread. Pith helmets are also  look – ha ha. We’d like to visit more villages but we want to head back to Mawlamyine to see the sights in town.

So back through the green countryside of Bilu Island we head first to the Cinderella Restaurant for lunch. We choose to sit in the shady garden for an excellent lunch of prawn pasta, crumbed whole prawns and a salad – worth the price.

Now we’re off to the must-see Kyaikthanlan Pagoda. This is the ‘Old Moulmein Pagoda’ mentioned in Rudyard Kipling’s beautifully romantic poem ‘Mandalay’ that begins: “By the old Moulmein Pagoda, lookin’ lazy at the sea/ There’s a Burma girl a-settin’, and I know she thinks o’ me…”.  Awesome!

Kyaikthanlan Pagoda was built around 875 AD and said to be the home of Buddha’s hair relics. It’s the tallest structure in Mawmalyine and can be seen perched on a ridge high above the city. From the street we climb the many steep stairs to the top only to find there’s actually an elevator!

The main stupa is surrounded by 34 smaller stupas as well as prayer halls and we explore it all. From this high up, we have a panoramic view of the town plus the Gulf of Martaban, the majestic limestone mountains of Kayin State in the east and all the nearby islands and rivers.

Worn out by this stage, we tuktuk back to our hotel for a rest in our lovely bungalow. On dark we dress up and decide to just have dinner in the restaurant here tonight. Mark is happy with his whole grilled fish but my meal is raw and I don’t eat anything. Later we have a drink in the lobby then go for a walk in search of some loud Indian music playing somewhere close by. We set off in the dark but a couple of streets away we come across a pack of dogs who frankly scare the shit out of us so we hightail it back to our hotel.

Bed after Mark chases mosquitos around the room with a sort of butterfly net we found behind the door. Ha, ha.

Tuesday 5th November, 2019

Mawlamyine to Ye

Our plan today is to bus it to Ye at the southern end of Mon State. An early tuktuk is waiting in the laneway outside to take us to the bus station. We always love bus stations in these small Asian towns – so much to see with local vendors selling food to passengers for the trip ahead. Some have just a few apples and mandarins in a tray they carry on their heads while others sit on low plastic stools with a few vegetables displayed on the ground in front of them.

At 7am the bus pulls out and we start our journey down the National Highway. It’s not as grandas it sounds but we’ve been on much worse roads on our travels. The bus is perfect with open windows that let in the fresh air as we speed south towards our destination, the small town of Ye.

The National Highway is, of course, the main road that runs between Myanmar’s north and the far south on the narrow strip of land squeezed between the Andaman Sea and the Tanintharyi Hills, which form the border with Thailand.

It’s a picturesque drive with the endless pagodas popping up at almost every turn and thatched villages and roadside stalls selling drinks and lottery tickets. In one village we all pile out at a market shaded by spreading trees where we buy grapes and tiny apples. Directly behind is a restaurant where other passengers buy food in plastic bags. We also use the toilets – a hole in the ground but clean.

Back on the bus the villages become less frequent, replaced by rubber plantations, betel-nut and lots of coconut trees and other tropical palms. I never, ever get bored! The road has become narrower and more winding by this stage but improves as we reach the outskirts of the remote town of Ye.

At the bus stop we find a tuktuk to drive us to the Starlight Guesthouse which we read about on a traveller’s blog. The town is very pretty, nestled on a picturesque river bend with a tree-lined lake near its centre. This is where the Starlight Guesthouse used to be but we soon find out that it’s moved so we set off again. The new Starlight is on the edge of town but with the same owners who greet us warmly.

They’re David and Mimi, an American-Myanmar couple, who show us to our bungalow behind the main reception area. We don’t waste time hanging around and we’re soon jumping onto a motor bike that we’ve hired from David.

We head straight back into town, sharing the road with a family of goats and pass roughly timbered houses, golden temple gates, lots of motor bikes with the smell of wood fires permeating it all. And since it’s almost dark, the sunset just adds to the wonderful atmosphere of this sleepy little town. 

The Shwesandaw Paya is the main shrine in Ye so we pay a visit now while it’s quieter and cooler. Like all Buddhist temples, it glows with gold from the huge paya to the sitting Buddha statues to the elaborate carvings.

But we haven’t eaten for hours so we go in search of food. I’m okay with Burmese food but nowhere has anything printed in English so I just order off the photos in the menu. But the food is atrocious and I can’t eat anything. I really should be losing weight by now, but I’m not.

On dark we’re back on the bike and we’re very lucky to come across a wonderful Buddhist ceremony. Hundreds of children wearing longyis and white tops, carry flags and elaborate Buddhist umbrellas and file past us as they walk along the very long covered walkway to a pagoda in the centre of the lake. This is all accompanied by loud traditional music while everyone presses their palms together in prayer.

But we’re now in search of alcohol and end up at a dingy bar back towards the Starlight. This is a dimly lit place set back off the road called the Ko Kyaw Restaurant and Bar. Mark has a beer but they don’t even sell coke so I have to wait till we get back to the Starlight where we have a few drinks in the dining room. Bed at 10pm.

Wednesday 6th November, 2019

Ye to Dawei

Up early for a healthy breakfast of dragon fruit, watermelon, sweet pineapple and an omelette with green tea and coffee. After ringing Lauren we have a long chat with David about how to get out to Banana Mountain before we catch a bus this afternoon to Daweii.

Taking off on our bike we head north-east towards the Tenasserim Hills where Banana Mountain, or Ko Yin Lay, lies only about ten kilometres away. We travel at first along the highway back towards Mawlamyine then turn right along a red dirt road for a few kilometres. We finally come to a school where the children are in the playground performing their morning ritual of singing the National Anthem and raising the flag. They’re all immaculately dressed in royal blue longyis and snowy white shirts while they stand to attention. We stop to watch then pass through the village where people have laid out nuts and berries to dry in the sun on the side of the road.

Directly behind and looming over it all are the giant, imposing Buddhas of Ko Yin Lay – one reclining and four sitting. The monastery is in the foreground and it’s here that we park our bike. Nuns in maroon robes come and go with books in their hands – obviously coming from classes. Opposite the monastery is the nuns’ sleeping quarters in an ornate two storey building charmingly surrounded by trees and palms.

We want to visit the monastery when the nuns are called to lunch so we decide to visit the Buddhas first. The Reclining Buddha is massive and has a vast hall beneath where hundreds of thick and lavishly decorated columns hold up the roof and the Buddha above. Each column has an elephant head carved on each of its four sides and a large shrine dominates one end. Here we watch three young monks sitting in front of a chanting very old monk. The very old monk beckons us over and wraps coloured string around our wrists – ‘Thank you’ he beams, proud of his welcome in English.

Outside we run into lots of other young monks who want photos taken with us. This is my heaven!  From here we walk up to the Sitting Buddhas arranged in a square with their backs to each other. Inside is a wide staircase that winds up around inner religious chambers with each floor decorated differently. At the tower at the top we overlook the whole Ye Valley surrounded by the Tenasserim hills. From up here we’re able to appreciate the colossal scale of the whole complex.

Scorching hot now from the heat, the humidity and the climb we make our way back to the monastery. A group of local ladies in the kitchen are preparing lunch for the nuns. They call us in and find tiny wooden stools for us to sit on. The room is large with a high ceiling, a cement floor, cement block walls and big windows without glass. Around the walls are numerous open fires with a grate on the top holding blackened pots with something boiling away inside. No gas or electricity here to make things easier but I doubt they’d want it.

The ladies are all sitting together in a circle on the floor having a wow of a time laughing and joking as they peel and chop vegetables. They make us very welcome, smiling and waving then one of them brings over bowls of rice and four separate bowls of vegetable stews that I can’t recognize. This is one of those travel experiences that are not only unexpected but what we love the most. A true local experience and being amongst local people. This could be the highlight of our whole trip!

After eating we meet an ancient blind nun squatting on the floor threading flowers onto string then find the main hall. This is a cool dark room with black floor tiles and a polished wooden ceiling. Low round tables have been set up for lunch for the nuns who quietly file in. They pray at the Buddha shrine at the end of the room then more prayers at their table.

Wow! We’re on a total high, but need to get back to Ye as we want to visit the market in town before leaving for Dawei. The market is situated not far from the lake which looks picture postcard today. It’s lined by trees with a monastery on the opposite bank and the pagoda in the centre where we watched the Buddhist ceremony last night.

The market is mainly run by the Mon people who sell the usual fruits and vegetables found in most markets but, because Ye has a seaport, they also sell lots of fish and other seafood. Next door is the local Gold Market. Apparently gold has kept its value in Myanmar so many Burmese people prefer to put their savings into gold instead of anything else – makes sense.

Time now to ride back to the Starlight where we pack then wait for the bus with David. The bus is actually a van as we’re heading into less popular areas and no need for a big bus. For many years Southern Myanmar was off-limits to tourists, even to Burmese from other states, and has only recently opened up to tourism. We haven’t seen a western tourist for days!

The mini-van finally arrives and thankfully is only half full which means a much more comfortable trip than we would have expected. We snake our way over winding mountainous roads passing through small towns and at one stage stuck behind a very slow tuktuk carrying cows.

For the first time this trip, the skies open up and it begins to rain heavily at the top of the mountain. But by the time we reach Dawei in the late afternoon, the sky is blue once again.

Researching Dawei, we find that it has a long history of British rule with still lots of interesting colonial architecture – old wooden thatch-roofed bungalows and brick and stucco mansions.

From where the van stops in a market area, we catch a tuktuk to take us to the Hotel Dawei. It’s an old colonial building with tropical features of wide verandahs, louvred wooden shutters, multi-paned windows and pitched roof lines plus lush gardens. It even has a pool and we’re straight in after chucking our gear into our room.

Later we decide to have dinner here in the hotel so we dress up for a ‘posh’ night. We splurge on margaritas and Mark has a seafood platter while I’m happy with a pizza.

While we’re still having drinks we hear music coming from the street and we’re in time to see another Buddhist procession. This is much more extravagant than the one we saw last night in Ye. Everyone is dressed in white and groups of men carry floats holding large buddha statues, each one lit up like a Christmas tree. And, of course, loud Burmese music accompanies it all.

An early night after a wonderful day.

Thursday 7th November, 2019

Dawei to Maughmagan Beach

Today is Angie’s 40th birthday. Happy birthday in heaven our darling. It won’t be a good day for us but I pray that you’re happy wrapped in the arms of Gra and Da. I hope so with all my heart. I’m happy that I dreamt about you last night, my angel. Lauren will be so sad today.

This morning we’re leaving Dawei for Maughmagan Beach only twelve kilometres east so it won’t be a long travel day.

Breakfast is a set affair – juice, tea, coffee, bacon, eggs, toast and croissants. Mark isn’t feeling too well so he doesn’t eat much for a change. We actually go back to our room for a doze to see if he feels a bit better afterwards.

At 11 o’clock we pack, pay our bill and order a taxi. The road to Maughmagan climbs then descends a big hill through dense tropical vegetation and rubber plantations to the village itself. This is typical of all small villages we’ve seen in southern Myanmar with the exception that here there are lots of guesthouses.

Our guesthouse is off the main street along a sandy track between simple houses. This is called Sweet Honey Bamboo Village where a friendly owner greets us and shows us our hut. This is very cute and lives up to its ‘bamboo’ name – everything is made of bamboo including the external and internal walls, the ceiling, the bed, chairs and side tables.

Sweet Honey is a small family-run place with a row of about ten tiny huts facing an open-sided hanging-out area where a few local guests are using their ipads – good to know they have wifi. We decide to head straight to the beach so we hire a motor-bike at the little front desk. The drive only takes a couple of minutes through the village.

We park our bike near the back of some shacks which turn out to be beachside restaurants. In fact, there must be a hundred of these all along the beach facing the water. These are basic to say the least and reminds us of Thailand. We really love the rustic feel of this place but there aren’t many people around considering all the places to eat here. And it’s a Sunday so where are all the local tourists! We never expected to see many western tourists – and we don’t – because, as we’ve already experienced, this southern part of Myanmar still isn’t on the tourist trail.

I read somewhere that Maughmagan may share the sea with Thailand’s Andaman Coast, but that’s where the similarity ends. Not touristy at all so then why ….? And all the restaurants are open!

There are also beach hawkers selling food, sarongs and trinkets. And shops selling souvenirs and clothes – I buy a pair of baggy pants for me and an outfit each for the Dollies.

Mark walks down to the water’s edge to take photos of fishing boats that have brought in their catch. They look like Viking boats. He also takes photos of circular patterns made on the sand by burrowing crabs. The tide is low so the water is miles away and I’m much too lazy to walk down there!

We walk along past all the family style restaurants and back to where we’d come across a wedding ceremony being set up. It’s hard to miss with music blaring all over the village. We’re dressed in our daggiest beach clothes but these beautifully dressed ladies pull us inside to join the wedding celebrations. They feed us ice cream and drinks then I’m taken out the back where a group of transvestites are applying makeup and thanaka to the female guests’ faces. The thanaka is made the traditional way by rubbing the root from the thanaka tree onto a whetstone. Now it’s my turn and I’m included in this brilliant experience.

Back outside the bride and groom have turned up. They’re so tiny and elaborately dressed, she in a big white wedding dress and he in a black suit – they look like those little plastic dolls you see on top of a wedding cake. We have lots of photos taken with them and the other guests. Bloody hell, we look totally feral and have no idea why they’d want us to be in their photos. Thank you, sweet people.

Further down we stop at one of the simple restaurants selling seafood.  A cheeky young guy at the front convinces us that his in the best place to eat and he’s not wrong. With Myanmar beer and lime sodas Mark has an excellent whole steamed fish and I have a prawn salad.

Time now for our afternoon rest, we ride back to Sweet Honey but then return again a couple of hours later. One place has music playing so we settle in for a couple of hours for more food and drinks.

Wonderful driving home on the bike in the warm dark air.

Off to Thailand tomorrow!!

Friday 8th November, 2019

Maughmagan Beach to Dawei to Kanchanburi (Thailand)

Under another clear blue sky, we leave Maughmagan very early. A tuktuk takes us to the bus station in Dawei which isn’t anything like a bus station but we unload our bags anyway. Soon a guy packs us into his rusty old truck which will definitely not be a comfy ride but we only travel a few kilometres when we’re told to move to a small van which will be heaps better on the long trip to the border.

To get into Thailand we need to do this five hour trip to the Htee Kee/Phunaron border crossing in the hills east of Dawei. I’ve read that the route is terrible so we’re pleasantly surprised with a relatively good road. For some reason, and this is no way unusual in Asia, we stop numerous times to drop things off and pick things up and random people get on and off despite the fact that we’ve paid for the van ourselves. No use caring so we just go with the flow.

At one stage, we pass yet another Buddhist ceremony with school children walking in single file along the edge of the road, some carrying temple umbrellas, big bunches of flowers, baskets of fruit and some beating drums. Small villages are picture perfect with backdrops of palm trees and flowering vines. In one village we even see a line of monks in maroon robes on their morning alms round.

If the road was okay at first it quickly deteriorates after an hour. The bitumen has given way to rough gravel and the remaining four hours are teeth-chattering as we bounce from pothole to pothole up and down hills. We hug fast flowing rivers, cross rickety one lane bridges, occasional villages but basically miles of nothingness. The trip seems to go on forever until we finally pull into the dusty border town of Htee Kee.

We’re dropped at a low wooden building where we receive our Myanmar exit stamps then back in the van for another age till we reach the Phu Nam Ron border in Thailand. As tourists we’re given free 30 day visas. Apparently there will be a bus to Kanchanaburi leaving soon so we head off down the road dragging our backpacks behind us past lots of bamboo cafes and market stalls. At last, a small and very flashy mini bus pulls up next to us and we’re off on the smooth, tarred roads of Thailand. Kanchanaburi is another two hours away but this is luxury compared to the previous five hours.

Both SE Asian countries, Myanmar and Thailand have lots of similarities but also lots of differences. They have similar climates and so similar food sources, similar coastal and mountainous regions and with both the primary religion is Theravada Buddhism. But there are differences as well and this is obvious even on this two hour drive from the Myanmar border.

I tried to read up on why this is. Myanmar had been cut off to the rest of the world for decades and so isn’t as modernized or progressive as Thailand. In a sense, Myanmar is still growing up. Mynamar (Burma) lost its identity when it was colonized by the British in 1824 then later when it fell under military rule. Suffering years of oppressive military rule has caused extensive poverty plus a terrible campaign of ethnic cleansing.  On the other hand, Thailand is the only Southeast Asian country that hasn’t been colonized by a European power and so has managed to retain its independence. Whereas Thailand embraced capitalism and globalization, Myanmar has been held back by invasion and corruption. Complicated and lesson over!

Back to the bus. By four o’clock we arrive in Kanchanaburi where we catch a tuktuk to the backpacker area on the Mae Klong River. We stayed here four years ago at a couple of different places but found the Pong Pen Guesthouse really cheap – loads of atmosphere and even a pool. The food here is fabulous as well so after a dip in the pool we order fish, chips and salad. Back to the pool we float around drinking pineapple and mango shakes. Oh yes, we love you Thailand.

What we also love about Thailand is having a massage so just on dark we find one close by and settle in for a one hour full body for only $8AUD. Later we do a bar crawl of the street listening to local bands playing the Eagles, Van Morrison and my favourite, John Denver’s Country Roads.

Bed about ten o’clock.

Saturday 9th November, 2019

Kanchanburi to Bangkok

We’ve decided to hang out in Kanchanaburi this morning and catch the train to Bangkok later this afternoon. For breakfast at Pong Pen we sit at one of the little wooden tables in the laneway – banana pancakes, watermelon, pineapple and tea and coffee. Another swim then more pineapple shakes before hiring a motor bike to drive down to the Bridge.

This is the Bridge on the River Kwai which became famous all over the world, when it was featured in David Lean’s movie. Tourists flock here every day and, being a Saturday, it’s even busier with many more local day trippers. It’s a fun family atmosphere with lots of market stalls selling souvenirs and food. We buy clothes for the Dollies and lunch at an open-air place for good people watching.

At two o’clock we pack and catch a tuktuk to the railway station. Kanchanaburi’s station is picturesque despite its terrible history of being part of the Death Railway built by prisoners during World War II. Today it’s a peaceful pretty place with simple wooden buildings and lots of flower gardens and greenery.

And the train is wonderful – open windows once again to keep us cool and to watch the world go by on this three hour trip to Bangkok. We roll into Thonburi Railway Station as darkness falls. This station is frantically busy with hundreds of people boarding and getting off trains. The train stop is in the middle of a market with tuktuks buzzing around and hawkers calling out. We quickly catch a tuktuk to the Chao Praya as Thonburi is on the other side of the river to Banglamphu where we always stay.

We don’t have to wait long for an up-river ferry and joy of joys there are monks on board. I make sure I take a few selfies with them in the background.

At Banglamphu we jump out excited to be back ‘home’. We stay in a pretty place in Soi Rambutri and head out for food and drinks. All around here is very busy tonight especially Khao San Road where we buy a t-shirt for Steve with a photo of him wearing a blonde girl’s wig. Ha.

We think we’ll escape the crowds and call into the strange little place we visited a couple of weeks ago on Thanon Chakrabongse. The funny lady owner is here and someone has fallen asleep on a bench behind us. Later we find the Reggae Bar and hang out for ages listening to Bob Marley – the guys serving even have dreadlocks – very cool.

Sunday 10th November, 2019


This afternoon we plan to move to Chinatown for a change. I’ve found a wonderful place on and we hope it’s as good as it looks. This morning though we walk over past the Museum to Wat Mahatat. We’ve been here countless times and it’s our favourite wat in Bangkok. We light candles and incense for Angie then have lunch in one of the very basic restaurants at the Mahatat Market. This is something we do every time we come to Bangkok and always happy that nothing has changed.

Later we have a massage and I have a hair wash and blow dry at Pink in Soi Rambutri. Time then to grab our packs and a tuktuk to take us the short distance across the city to Chinatown and our hotel for tonight, Shanghai Mansion.

I’m in raptures from the moment we cross the red bridge with a giant mural of a Chinese girl on the facing wall. This is art deco class!

Google says that Shanghai Mansion began life in 1892 as a trading house, and in 1908, it was transformed into Bangkok’s first Chinese opera house frequented by members of Thailand’s Royal Family and other members of the aristocracy. Since then it’s been Thailand’s stock exchange, a textile trading center, a Chinese department store and now a beautiful boutique hotel.  

Inside the foyer we’re transported into the stylish mood of Shanghai during the 1930’s and where we’re  treated like royalty. We’re given cool wet hand towels to freshen up plus glasses of deep pink Rosella Juice.

Along with the room, we’ll be given a complimentary High Tea which we can have after we settle in.

Our room is stunning – a black carved four poster bed, vibrant purple velvet curtains, rich paint colors, wallpaper decorated with Chinese scenery, opulent fabrics and paper lanterns.  The whole hotel is just as magical and we explore every level.

Our High Tea is served in an alcove off the main bar which opens directly onto Yaowarat Street, Chinatown’s main thoroughfare. Fresh dragon fruit and pineapple, satay skewers, cakes and a few very exotic savoury things with prawns are washed down with green tea – we feel very spoilt. What a find!

Before we return to our lovely room for our usual afternoon siesta, we find a massage place around the corner – fantastic as always. The rest of the day is resting up then it’s time to eat again. And we don’t need to go far.

Yaoworat Road is in the center of Chinatown and becomes a food hotspot at night. Restaurants line the street in both directions and most set up tables and chairs on the pavement to cater for the thousands of people who come here every night.  These lively places specialize in seafood some even advertising the terrible Shark Fin Soup – shameful!

We check out side streets that are just as busy with lots of hole in the wall eateries but eventually we find a couple of empty plastic stools on the bustling main road. Mark of course has a whole fish while I order a prawn dish – both good and it comes out in seconds.

By now the crowds are even worse and I’m really getting a headache so we retreat to the oasis of tranquility which is Shanghai Mansion. Drinks in the Red Rose Bar before retiring to our oh, so comfy bed.

Monday 11th November, 2019


Today we return to Banglamphu as, not only do we want to spend our last night in our favourite area, but we’ve heard that the Festival of Lights will be happening down on the riverbank tonight.

We book into a lovely new place on Thanon Rambutri – must be getting soft but these places are so cheap! There’s even a swimming pool on the bottom floor near reception.

And since this is our last day, we return to the Mahatat Market and spend up big on vases, urns and ginger jars for home – cheap as chips, as they say. We have massages, manicures, hair washes, and do lots of eating and hanging out at Madam Masur’s in Soi Rambutri.

As darkness falls we follow the crowds heading for the Chao Praya for the Festival of Lights or Loy Krathong. During the Festival, people gather around lakes, rivers and canals to pay respects to the goddess of water by releasing beautiful lotus-shaped rafts, called krathongs, decorated with candles, incense and flowers onto the water.

These are made from all natural materials like banana leaves, banana tree bark, spider lily plants and bread and many varieties are sold along the way and we buy our own to place in the river. A man with a long pole lowers our offerings into the water and off they float with thousands of others, the flickering of candles drifting off into the distance.

 All the trees in Santichaiparakan Park have been strung with lights and lanterns and people gather as families on the grass but most wander around looking at all the decorations. Something exciting seems to be happening down near the Fort but there are so many people we can’t see anything and decide to escape the crowds and look for alcohol.

We’d come across some interesting restaurants across the nearby klong a couple of weeks ago so we aim for there now. Although this is just a stone’s throw from the park it’s completely peaceful. It has that hippie feel of Khao San Road twenty years ago and we feel very at home.

Still not wanting to take on the crowds we move on to a couple of tiny bars hidden away in the laneways between Khao San Road and Thanon Rambutri – we see the fattest man we’ve ever seen – just saying.


Tuesday 12th November, 2019

We spend today just hanging out, eating and having massages. Mark is the best packer and crams everything into our packs while I leave him to it. About 1pm we set off for the airport for our late afternoon flight.

Another awesome trip!

Wednesday 13th November, 2019


Arrive early morning and catch the train home to our darlings.

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Lombok, Gili Air, Gili Trewangan and Bali – Indonesia 2012

Thursday 22nd March, 2012

 Sydney to Darwin to Bali

Yesterday Lauren and Abi drove us to Hamilton station at 4pm. Abi loved the trains but then cried her little heart out when Mark and I waved her goodbye – dear little dolly. Mark and I cried, too, to see her so upset. We’ll miss Lauren and Abi so much. Mark said, “I don’t want to go to Sri Lanka now”.

The trip to Sydney was fast and peaceful then a change of trains at Central to St James Station. We walked over to Jillian’s in Woolloomooloo then all had pizza at the backpackers across the road. I started getting stomach cramps again – both of us have just gotten over Bali belly and we haven’t even left home yet! I went to bed early while Mark and Jillian stayed up drinking wine and talking.

Now this morning, we hang out with Jillian till she goes to work. After showers and breakfast, Mark works through his emails while I relax – spoilt! At eleven o’clock we walk over to St James Station to catch a City Circle train to Central then on to the Domestic Airport. Because we have to fly to Darwin first we’re not departing from the International Terminal – a bummer because at least Sydney International is mildly exciting while now all we have to look at is a lot of fat feral Australians. So many repulsive people I just want to close my eyes so I don’t have to look at them.

After checking through our bags, we have something to eat then fly out on Jetstar on time at two o’clock. We have a window seat and one in the middle – fairly squashed with a fat lady sitting next to me, but good for a cheap flight. The trip to Darwin is just over four hours which is an hour and a half behind Sydney then Bali is an hour and a half behind Darwin. We’ve got a 3 hour stop-over here then a two and a half hour flight to Bali (confused?).

Unlike every other time we’ve been to Bali, we’ve got no idea what to expect when we arrive.  And we only know this much because we received an email from the people at Sorga Bungalows where we luckily booked a room for tonight. They warned us of what is happening tomorrow – it’s Nyepe Day.

Apparently this is like the Balinese New Year which means today is New Year’s Eve. And according to what we’ve read, it’s supposed to be totally full on – huge monster looking dolls called ogoh-ogohs are carried through the streets then burnt on the beaches with lots of noise to scare away the evil spirits.

But because we don’t fly in till 9pm we’ll probably miss all the fun. Hopefully some of it will be still happening then again maybe everything will be quiet in readiness for Nypee Day. By the way, Nypee Day is also called the Day of Silence – bloody hell – Bali is shut for 24 hours from 6am Friday morning till 6am Saturday morning – no planes in or out, no transport, no leaving your hotel, no lights at night and for the Balinese, no leaving the house, no cooking, no eating, no talking! Total silence, so that when the evil spirits come back after being chased away today, they’ll look down on Bali and think that there’s no-one there and go away for another year. Bloody stupid but it’s their thing, bless them.

Anyway, at Darwin’s small airport we’re outside in minutes and decide to get a taxi into town. We’ve got a three hour stopover and our bags are going straight onto the next plane so we’ll only have to be back here an hour before we fly out. Our super friendly driver takes us on a guided tour of Darwin – Fanny Bay, Mindil Beach, the waterfront, all the official buildings, the aboriginal area and eventually drops us off in Mitchell Street, the main street. We have a drink at one of the many open air bars packed with mainly men. So bloody expensive – $17 for a beer and a cooler! Get us to Bali, quick!

Another taxi and another super friendly driver gets us back to the airport at five o’clock in plenty of time for our six o’clock flight.  Again we’re squashed into an aisle and a middle seat till I spy three empty seats towards the back. Now we can stretch out and even get a quick nap before we start to get ready to land. Seeing the lights of beautiful Bali below us makes us as excited as always.

Doing a fast dash through the airport and with a fast line at immigration we’re outside in half an hour. Now it’s time for Mark to go to the ATM while I mind the bags. Bad news – the ATMs have already been shut down for Nypee Day – wtf? We’ve got no cash at all so we can’t even get money from a money changer. No money means no transport into town. The taxi drivers say, ‘not far, you walk’ – six kilometers with all our backpacks? Awesome!

Out of the blue, an Aussie guy starts talking to us and then hands over 30,000 Rp so we can get a taxi as well as some food for tomorrow in case the kitchen in our hotel is closed. His name is Barney and he’s waiting for his girlfriend to come in on a plane from Jakarta. This is amazingly kind and we promise to get the money back to him as soon as we can.

Now it’s a race to get into Kuta as soon as we can before the stores close – we really need to stock up on supplies for tomorrow. Grabbing a taxi we’re soon tearing through the streets but have to get out way over near Kuta Square – all the inner streets and laneways have been blocked off for the celebrations so we’ll have a long hot walk to the hotel. It’s weird to see everything closed – all the big stores but also the markets, bars and cafes. The only people around are Balinese following the ogoh-ogohs that are still being paraded through the streets. The huge monster heads sit on bamboo platforms that groups of local men carry on their shoulders. All this is accompanied by deafening drumming and clanging instruments.

We race pass one procession near the Matahari while a lot more people are down on Jalan Pantaii, cheering and dancing around a massive ogoh-ogoh. I want to stop and take photos but Mark is making me hurry up as it’s right on ten o’clock when the Circle K stores are supposed to shut. We’ve seen a couple but they’re closed already. At last we find one just shutting the door and spend about $10 on chips, water and biscuits.  

Now we can relax a bit except that it’s starting to sprinkle and we still have to walk along Beach Road and up Poppies I to get to Sorga. A few locals are hanging around near the beach but basically it’s eerily quiet especially in Poppies which is usually buzzing with life and music. We think that there must be somewhere still open so we can have a drink – after all, Nypee isn’t supposed to start till 6am tomorrow morning – bastards!

Finally at Sorga, Mark asks the guys on the desk if they can advance us some money till the banks open on Saturday. We want to meet up with Barney tonight and give him his money back. No luck, apparently ‘owner go home’ and has taken all the cash with him.

Good news, though, that we can get an air-conditioned room on the bottom floor facing the garden – it’s a bit more expensive (like $10, big deal) but worth it. After throwing our gear in our room, we head off in search of a bar and Barney’s hotel which he told us is in Poppies I.

 Within seconds the skies have opened up and we’re totally drenched – love it. Running up Poppies towards Jalan Legian we find the good old Secret Garden Bar open – it’s our favourite – thatched roof, coloured lights, bamboo furniture and daggy music. Firstly we try to find Barney’s hotel but no-one seems to have heard of it so we make another dash through the rain back to the Secret Garden. Dripping all over the place we sit at the bar and order Bintangs and margaritas. Luckily we’ve got enough of Barney’s money left for two drinks each. We’re soooooo happy sitting here on our first night.

After our money has run out we make another saturating sprint down Poppies to Sorga where Mark orders a beer and I get out our duty free Bacardi. Sitting in the open-sided café next to the pool, we stay up till 2am in the warm night air while the rain teems down around us and till we’re the only ones left. 

Friday 23rd March, 2012

Bali (Kuta)

Nypee day – yippee!! Not!!  The day of silence. Can’t hear a bloody thing anywhere – not even the familiar sounds of motor bikes in the lane way and no music which you can always hear coming from somewhere. Probably a good thing that we can’t leave the hotel because we’ve both got hangovers and it’s still raining anyway. Very strange to wake up to rain in Bali. Even in the wet season it typically pours down in the late afternoon for a couple of hours and then it’s all over till the next afternoon. We never mind it that much though because it’s always warm – rain or shine.

Mark won’t get out of bed but I’m hungry so I keep annoying him till he does. Breakfast comes free with the room – juice, fruit, nasi goring, scrambled eggs and tea or coffee. Lovely eating it in the little open-air restaurant next to the pool. The rain is teeming so we hang around the room reading and sleeping till two o’clock when the sun comes out. Before swims we have lunch of satay chicken.

The rest of the day is same, same – reading, sleeping, diary writing and smoking on the verandah. Meanwhile the rain is back and continues to pelt down around us while the path and gardens in front of our room are knee-deep in water. To get to the restaurant for dinner we wear plastic bags on our heads and throw bath towels around our shoulders – very attractive and ‘we think it hilarious’.

Dinner is good and later we talk to two young Australian girls from Melbourne who are trying to help an old hippie-looking French guy work out what’s wrong with his computer. Poor girls, they’re fed up with him but are too nice to tell him to fuck off.

Saturday 24th March, 2012

Bali to Lombok (Sengiggi)

Hallelujah!! Nypee Day is over, the rain has stopped and blue skies are above – now we can really start our holiday. After an early breakfast we head out to find an ATM. Outside Sorga, the laneway is flooded and a crowd of people are trying to keep the water from creeping into their homes – all smiles.  

Everything is supposed to be back to normal after 6am this morning and now it’s 8am but of course the ATM’s still haven’t been turned back on. We try a few in Poppies I and even walk over to Poppies II but then are told that we’ll have to wait till ten o’clock. Until we get money we can’t do anything but there’s nothing we can do about it.

In the meantime, we organize a fight to Lombok for this afternoon ($43 AUD each) at the tiniest travel agent ever – not much bigger than a cupboard but the little owner is very efficient and we soon have air tickets as well as hiring a motor bike till two o’clock.

While I wait for all this to happen, Mark races back to Poppies I  to see if the ATM’s are on and is finally in luck. We pay the little travel agent, then back at Sorga, we organize for a bemo to take us to the airport at 2pm. Now we head straight to Legian via Jalan Bensari – wonderful to be riding along these laneways again in the heat and sunshine. At French Leather we find Matt who works for Ivan who isn’t here today. I get measured up for a green leather jacket and hand over one of Lauren’s old ones to get copied in a soft mauve. Also order a mini-me one for Abi.

Very happy to have that out the way, so we have cold lime sodas at Billy’s Cafe in Legian. Here Mark gets a message on his mobile from Bali Barney to say that he’s in a café on the beach road near the entrance to Poppies I. We jump back on the bike but, because of all the one way streets, it takes ages and he’s gone by the time we get there.

Now we spend the next few hours riding around Kuta and Legian and are shocked at the number and the size of new hotels going up especially around Poppies II. Progress sucks!  Except for a monstrocity on the corner of the beach road, at least Poppies I is still much the same and we’re happy having lunch at the Secret Garden – prawn cocktails and mie goreng. Later we have a great one hour massage in Jalan Bensari for just $5.50 each then a snack of spring rolls and calamari. At two o’clock we drop the bike off with our little travel agent man who’s stressing that we’re running late to get to the airport. No problem as we’re back at Sorga in minutes where our van is already waiting.

The trip to the airport is an easy fifteen minutes. We’re shocked to see that a massive new airport terminal is being built next door to the present one. And no wonder really – there are literally thousands of people coming and going. We’ve never seen Bali so busy and probably why so many new hotels are going up. Even though tourists bring in the money, this really can’t be a good thing for such a tiny island. For a start, how are they going to get rid of all the poo?

Anyway, because of all the airport construction happening, we can’t get anywhere close to the domestic terminal so we have a very long walk to check in. Afterwards, we wander around the shops and Mark actually finds a couple of t-shirts that fit him.  Our plane is a bit late but we finally take off on Wings about six o’clock.

The trip is a quick thirty minutes flying eastwards and we can soon see the Lombok coastline. Now, though, we think it’s a bit weird to be flying over so much land considering the airport is just near the capital, Mataram, which is right on the west coast.

Finally coming in to land, we can see that the airport is remote and obviously not the Mataram airport which would have been much better being so close to Sengiggi where we plan to stay tonight. Apparently this is Bandara Internasional, only opened last year which is why it’s not in our old Lonely Planet. Inside the massive and modern terminal (ugly as well), we ask about transport to Sengiggi.  A one and a half hour taxi ride, no less! And $25AUD! We wonder why they would build an airport out here in the middle of bloody nowhere? The good thing is that we’re not in a hurry and at least we’ll be able to see some of Lombok on the way. 

In the meantime, while Mark waits for the bags to come off the carousel, I go outside to have a cigarette. But then they won’t let Mark take our packs out of the terminal without our baggage tickets which happen to be in my daypack. He finally convinces them to let him through and we’re soon speeding towards the west coast. 

Lombok is almost the same size as Bali – about 80km long and 80 km wide – with lots of similarities – flooded rice paddies, coconut palms, mountains in the distance and even a volcano. I love driving through the dusk with the sun setting in a purple sky.

The road passes through lots of small towns and villages then becomes congested with traffic as we reach Mattaram. Here we turn right heading north along the coast and arrive in Sengiggi about eight o’clock. We’ve picked a guesthouse out of the Lonely Planet as we usually do.

Raja’s Bungalows are situated up a dirt laneway where we see lots of local people gathered near the entrance.  I jump out of the van to look for Raja’s which ends up being a hundred metres at the end of a tiny track. It’s sooo beautiful out here in the dark with thick gardens overhanging the path. No luck with a room but we like the look of Ziva Queen Guesthouse nearby and end up with an okay room for $10 AUD – very basic but perfect for one night.

We ask Ronnie, the owner, about getting to the Gili Islands tomorrow and he arranges for a shuttle van to pick us up at eight o’clock in the morning – 75,000Rp  each for the van to Bengsal then a boat to Gili Air. Now we head down into town to get something to eat and drink. The people at the end of the laneway are still here so we watch the ladies preparing food under bamboo shelters and families eating on the floors of the houses opposite. Apparently there is to be a wedding tomorrow so there will be a feast that everyone helps to prepare. All the women are wearing headscarves so this will be a Muslim wedding and different to the Hindu weddings of Bali.

I’ve read that although Lombok is Islamic,Islam here is very unique compared to other countries and apparently even compared to other parts of Indonesia. It’s actually a mixture of traditional beliefs and Hinduism so it’s a lot more tolerant.

Whether it’ a Muslim thing or not, this place definitely lacks the vibe of Bali – especially considering that Sengiggi is supposed to be the travellers’ place to stay. There are only a few almost-empty restaurants and bars along the main road but we find one that has a nice tropical atmosphere and where we can sit up at the bar. I order a Margarita that’s probably the worst ever but then I order another one. We also order a quick meal of mie goreng and fish before heading back for an early night.

Sunday 25th March, 2012

Lombok (Sengiggi) to Gili Air

Very excited to wake to a perfect, sunny day. At 7.30am, the humidity hasn’t hit yet so we decide to go for a walk and look for somewhere to have breakfast before our shuttle bus arrives. In the daylight we can see how cute our little guesthouse is, with flowering pink frangipani and overhanging trees. The sun is just peeping over the field opposite where cows are grazing under coconut palms – very lovely.

At the end of the laneway, the same ladies are still preparing food for the wedding – have they been up all night? Out on the main road, we pass a mosque and a few shops not yet open. We can’t find a way to get down to the beach so we head back towards Ziva Queen. On the way we stop for breakfast at a small warung called Cicak Warung – beautiful noodle soup for a dollar each cooked and served by a sweet man in a tiny shack. 

Back in the laneway we watch the wedding preparations again then grab our packs to wait for our shuttle bus at 8.30am. It arrives on time with a friendly Asian couple and their little boy the only other passengers. The forty minute drive along the northwest coast is beautiful especially as the road follows the shoreline and we can see Bali’s volcano, Mount Agung, in the distance. A lot to see – crystal clear bays, coconut groves, rice paddies, small villages, fishing boats and outriggers, smoke from wood fires, pretty streams and the Gili Islands just off the coast.

The Gilis consist of three coral-fringed islands – Gili Air, Gili Meno and Gili Trawangan. Today we’re heading for Gili Air and tomorrow we plan to go to Trewangan before heading back to the Lombok mainland. We’re looking forward to a slower pace of life than in Kuta but hope there’s still a few cafes and bars to keep us happy.

To get to Gili Air we need to catch a public boat from Bangsal where we arrive about 9.15am. It’s a small, interesting town and I wish we had more time to look around. But for now we’re dropped off at a café where lots of other travellers are hanging around with their backpacks – Israelis, Argentinians, French, Americans. The Gilis are obviously on the ‘cool places to go’ list so they should be good.

We need to wait for half an hour before we’re given the nod that we can either walk down to the water or catch a cidomo (pony cart). Besides not wanting to walk, I can’t wait to have a ride in one of these little horse-drawn carriages.

On the way we see farmers in conical hats working in flooded rice paddies while we pass other cidomos coming back and forth from the wharf. At the water there are many more cidomos waiting for passengers getting off the boats from the islands. Even though we’ve already paid for our boat, we have to go to an office to get a ticket which shows what number boat we’ll be on, depending on its colour.

Bad luck that we have a green one which means that the Asian family got the last white ticket for the first boat out. Our boat won’t leave until then are twelve passengers which could take five minutes or five hours. But we seriously couldn’t care less. It’s so nice here where we have to wait for the boat. Across a small stream we sit around under coconut trees while Mark reads and I talk to some of the locals. I give them my Australian coins and swap bracelets with one young guy. Later I walk over to a shade-covered stall selling fruit and drinks then watch men burning piles of dried leaves and rubbish.

The first boat leaving for Gili Air is being loaded with fruit, water and untold bags and boxes of provisions for the island. Obviously everything has to be brought over from Lombok so every passenger boat has to double as a supply boat as well.

After an hour, our boat is loaded and we have enough passengers so we wade out with packs above our heads to jump onto the back. The boat is actually a small outrigger with bench seats along the sides and all the goods in the middle and under our feet. I’m just about sitting on top of a basket of green bananas. I love watching the local ladies who are all wearing head scarves and the men wearing peci caps. Mark sits up on the gunwhale and we’re both loving this boat ride.

Gili Air looks wonderful as we approach the shore – thatched huts, white sand and coconut palms. By the way, ‘Gili’ means ‘little’ and Gili Air is the littlest of the three (just a baby) – apparently we can walk around it in two hours but that’s definitely not on my list of things to do.

As the boat pulls into the beach we jump off into the water then set off along the sandy path to look for somewhere to stay. The only way to get around the island is by cidomo or bicycle but we just want to walk so we can check out the accommodation.

We’re pleasantly surprised that there is plenty see here with lots of cafes, dive shops and guesthouses. And we’re also happy that, despite this, the island still has a lazy, rustic charm mainly because of the lack of cars and motorbikes. Another bonus is that there aren’t any hawkers here so we won’t get hassled to buy things every five seconds.

The Lonely Planet gives Sunrise Bungalows a good rap so we decide to go there first. We like the look of it straight away. The traditional bungalows look fantastic spread out through a thick tropical garden of coconut palms, bougainvillea, hibiscus, pandan, jasmine and frangipani.

At the open-air check-in counter we’re thrilled to find that we can get a gorgeous two-storey lumbung-style bungalow for only $28 AUD. It’s sooo beautiful with a big chill out area on the ground floor with hammocks and a day bed draped in a white mosquito net – no walls except for the bathroom at the back. Up a steeply scary set of stairs we have to climb up through a hatch to reach the top verandah and the bedroom – a very bizarre setup and we won’t be drinking too much in case we have to get down to the loo in the night. Mark says ‘no problem’ – he can just go over the side.

Now it’s time to explore and find a café for lunch.  Most of the cafes are open-air places right on the water so we find a chilled out place where we lie on huge pillows and eat from low bamboo tables. This is exactly what we’ve been after – Bintangs, lime sodas and sate chicken.

After lunch we swim in the shallows right in front of Sunrise. The water is crystal clear and the white sand scattered with pure white coral thrown up onto the shore from the reefs which surround the island. This would be perfect for Abi and we jealously watch a family with a little bubba about her age. One day we’ll bring all our darlings here.

Snorkelling and diving are the main things to do in the Gilis but we’ll just stick to snorkeling even though Mark did have diving lessons in the Philippines in 2010. All along the track are little places hiring flippers and snorkels so we’re soon swimming out over the reef. Haven‘t snorkelled since we were in Vanuatu last year and we love it as always.

Afterwards I meet an old man who asks me if I want a massage – yes please! We follow him to his house not far down the track where we have a one hour massage each lying on a raised bamboo platform with a thatched roof. We pay $15 each which is heaps more than Bali but then massages don’t seem to be the big thing here – probably because of the Islam religion.

Later we hang out on the bottom floor of our hut – Mark swinging in the hammock and me encased in a mosquito net on the daybed. Dozing off we’re jolted awake by the call to prayer – forgot about the bloody mosque!

At six o’clock we’re up and ready for a good night. The sun is setting and so lovely sitting on platforms over the water drinking beers and margaritas. We cross to a bar on the other side of the track to sit on bar stools and talk to the barman. He’s nice but very depressing and tells us all his problems. Sorry mate but we’re out of here.

Now we look for a new place – love moving around – while cidomos clip clop past us carrying tourist and locals. Directly across the water in front of us is the Lombok mainland with volcanic Mount Rinjani and a lower range of mountains rising up behind the palm fringed coastline. We love it here.

We soon find another cool place where we sit at the bar drinking margaritas and Mark orders the biggest shish kebab we’ve ever seen. For $4AUD he gets a foot long skewer jammed with huge hunks of fish, meat, chicken and vegetables as well as side salad and chips – enough for the two of us – although I’m pretty plastered by this stage and ‘have to go home now’.   

Monday 26th March, 2012

Gili Air to Gili Trewangan

Wake to a gorgeous day with the sun just rising over the trees outside our hut. We decide to have a swim before breakfast as we’ve got till eight o’clock when we need to walk down to the boat. We cross over to the beach opposite and have a lovely time floating around in the warm water. Breakfast comes with the room so we sit under trees next to the lane way for banana pancakes, pineapple shakes and tea and coffee – a typical island breakfast for us.

We wash ourselves in the outdoor shower before going back to our hut to pack. At eight o’clock we catch a cidomo down to the wharf.  It’s lovely here with shady trees, warungs and lots of people. A nearby boat is being loaded with a couple of cows! Soon our boat is called and we wade through the shallows to climb onto the back. There are about fifteen passengers, some tourists and some locals.

The trip is beautiful with the mountains of Lombok on one side and Bali’s Gunung Agung in front.  Amazing scenery. We stop first at the smaller island of Gili Mena to drop some people off then onto Gili Trewangan. Most of the accommodation is located on the south east of the island so again we’ll have the same magnificent view of Mount Rinjani.

Jumping off the boat into the water we’re right amongst all the guesthouses and cafes. Like on Gili Air, a dirt track runs along the water’s edge with all the accommodation on the opposite side to the water and lots of cafes sitting almost on the sand. The water is a clear turquoise blue with white soft sand scattered with coral. We look out for a guesthouse we’ve read about in the Lonely Planet but then find one we really love.

Flush is a colourful place set in overgrown gardens facing the water. Tall trees at the front shade a round, thatched platform with snorkeling gear for hire and a row of old pushbikes that we can use. We’re so lucky to get a hut here – another lumbung-style bungalow but this one single storied with an open-air bathroom at the back overhung with tall thick trees. We have a wooden verandah with bamboo furniture and a four poster bed again encased in a white mosquito net. The ceiling soars to a point in the traditional style.

 After booking in with a young guy who has learnt to say “how ya goin’ mate” to all the Aussies, we’re given a “welcome home” cup of coffee. 

After settling in, we check out the Turtle Hatchery, a local initiative set up to help the island’s turtle population. Once the eggs have hatched, the baby green and hawksbill turtles are placed in a tank and left to grow until they’re about six months old when they’re big enough to fend for themselves, then released into the sea. And they’re soooo cute. They come right up to the glass with their dear little faces.

From here we walk up and down the path for somewhere to buy a memory card for our video camera – no luck, so we’ll just have to do without till we get back to Lombok. Have lunch and drinks lying on big cushions at a beachside cafe then hire bicycles from our guesthouse – $2.50 each. We ride down to the far end where all the guesthouses stop.

 I see a sign for traditional massage and ask a man lying around on a raised bamboo platform. He calls out to his wife who is lying around on another platform – she drags herself up (too busy?) and I follow her to their little house opposite. She’s sweet and very pretty. Her name is Hilani and she points to her little tummy to tell me that she is pregnant – probably why she’s tired – now I feel mean.

Their hut is amazingly bare – just a mattress on the floor and a few clothes hanging from nails. There’s a little plastic box with a few pathetic toiletries and some makeup – very sad really. The massage is good as usual but a bit uncomfortable lying on the bare floor – poor me. 

Meanwhile Mark has gone for a long ride through the village and is now lounging around in a café opposite drinking bintangs. After a snack of seafood soup and soda waters we ride back home for a sleep.

Up at six o’clock looking for happy hour drinks. We order Margaritas and Caprioskas lying on mattresses down by the water. Soon the mossies attack so we take our drinks up into the cafe. Further down the laneway, we order fish and rice. Good music is playing all around us but not too loud – definitely not the dreaded ‘party island’ like we’d been warned about. Bed at nine o’clock.

Tuesday 27th March, 2012

Gili Trewangan

Wake at 5am to the call to prayer coming from the mosque. Very loud but not too long and we fall back to sleep. Mark gets up at six o’clock to watch the sun rise over Mount Rinjani and to go for a swim. I don’t wake till 7.30 and very happy to see that we have lots of photos of our Dolly come through on Mark’s phone. Breakfast is in our guesthouse on a raised platform overlooking the laneway – banana pancakes, fruit, pineapple shakes and tea.

Now we decide to go snorkelling – the water looks gorgeous. We hire the gear from the guys out front after Mark buys a packet of biscuits from the shop next door to feed the fish. This is a great move and we see hundreds of fish swimming around us to get their share – all amazing colours and large silver ones big enough to eat. I like the long skinny see-through ones that hover around the surface.

I hang around the shore for a while collecting coral while Mark goes back out. The strap on his goggles breaks so he swaps it for a new pair. Later we go out again together and see a huge puffer fish and more of the beautiful coloured ones that live on these coral reefs.

Back home for a shower then lunch in an upstairs cafe overlooking the lane way and the water beyond. I want to have a massage so we walk to a place we’d seen yesterday. A local guy rings the lady to come from her village but she doesn’t turn up. Further down near the turtle hatchery we see another massage sign. Now we have to wait for the massage man who’s apparently having lunch. Later we find him sleeping on the railing of the verandah – no-one seems to want to work around here. Anyway I have to have the massage in our room – good but $12 is expensive compared to Bali – while Mark swings in the hammock on our balcony.

Sleep and read with the call to prayer waking us at three o’clock. About six, we have drinks lying on lounges on the sand at the Extrablatt Café. Later a blackout leaves the whole island in darkness. We move for more drinks at the Fortuna Cafe further down towards the boat wharf. Dinner is baby chickens for Mark and tuna and egg salad for me. A Bob Marley type band is playing – good except that the electricity keeps going off. Next an excellent female singer. Bed about 10.30.

Wednesday 28th March, 2012

Gili Trewangan to Lombok to Bali (Padang Bai)

Woken at five again by the call to prayer then back to sleep till 6.30. We walk over to the beach to watch the sunrise then decide to go for a bicycle ride through the village. I love it in here. People are starting their day and kids are walking to school. Horseless buggies sit outside some houses while we can see the little horses being fed inside the yards.

Some of the lanes are roughly paved but most are rutted dirt which are actually easier to ride on. Besides family homes, the village is dotted with cheap homestays, little open-air shops and laundries. And all is beautifully overhung with flowering trees, palms and bougainvillea. 

Back at Flush to order breakfast while we have cold showers to cool us down after the ride. We pack then have our banana pancakes and tea and coffee next to the tiny kitchen. As we pay for the room the young guy tells us that the owner said we have to pay 200,000rp for the broken mask from yesterday. Mark says ‘no way’ but we end up giving him 100,000 rp anyway just to shut him up.

We need to walk quickly down to the boats now as our boat to Lombok is supposed to leave at eight o’clock. One pulls out just as we arrive but then we’re told that another boat will be leaving in five minutes. Of course this translates to thirty minutes and we finally pull out at 8.30am. The boat is an old tub with no perspex on the bow which means that we all get sprayed the whole way. The wind is up today and there’s quite a swell making it a slower ride – still really enjoy it anyway with the mountains of Lombok impressively shrouded with heavy dark clouds.

At Bangsal, Mark gets soaked when he jumps out of the boat into a deep bit then we’re whisked into a cidomo by two local men. We backtrack along the same road to the cafe that we left from three days ago. Here we wait with other travellers for a van to take us back to Sengiggi.

Mark and I grab the front seat for good views on the forty minute trip. In Sengiggi, we talk to a man in the street who says that he’ll drive us to Teluk Nara to catch the fast boat back to Bali at three o’clock. We agree to meet him at two. Now we walk down to the beach where lots of coloured fishing boats have been pulled up onto the sand and local women are selling freshly caught fish out of big cane baskets.

Not much else happening here so when we see the Santosa Resort we go in for some lunch. For only $10 we have excellent seafood pasta and pizza sitting by the pool. After a wander around the grounds, we head back out into the street that runs down to the beach. Here we have a massage for $7.50 each then hang out for an hour in a cafe on the main road while we wait for our driver to pick us up at two o’clock.

When he doesn’t turn up (must have found a better offer), we find another man who’ll take us for the same price. Teluk Nara is nearly as far as Bangsal, so it’s another forty minute drive. This is the third time we’ve done this trip in four days but we enjoy it each time – a perfect mix of coastline, islands, tropical vegetation and villages.

At Teluk Nara we find the ‘fast boat’ wharf – a short wooden pier in front of a thatched hut, open on three sides with toilets at one end. We sit on bamboo chairs to wait for our boat which will be leaving in fifteen minutes. Wrong! – not surprisingly, the boat is an hour and a quarter late. No-one seems to mind so we don’t either. By now the rain is pouring down but the air is calm and warm so we’re fine. Besides that, there are chickens running around on the sandy floor – perfect. Meanwhile, we’ve noticed a young German backpacker studying her Lonely Planet and now she asks us if we’ve been to Java as she’s going there next. It’s five years since we traveled to Java from Bali but I think we give her some good tips on transport and places to go.

At last the boat arrives at four fifteen. It’s come from Gili Trawangan so a few people are already on board – but even with us and the German girl, there’s still only about ten of us on the boat. The rain is still hammering down and we get drenched running from the hut to the boat. The wind is also up once we leave the coastline so the first hour is horrible – scary big waves and I’m feeling sick. We’re sitting on the side of the boat that’s copping all the wind and waves are hitting our window so I can’t open it to get some fresh air. Mark grabs a seat on the other side and I feel a bit better with the cool air on my face. Suddenly the wind drops and the rain is gone – all is calm and we can see sunshine over Bali – a good sign, of course. The next hour is lovely as we make our way along the Balinese coastline. We see outrigger fishing boats off the shore and we recognise Candi Dasa.

About six o’clock we pull into Padang Bai and make a quick decision to stay here tonight and get a driver to take us back to Kuta tomorrow. Once Padang Bai was just a transit point for travelers going to Lombok and back but it’s changed a lot from when we were here in 2003. Even with a lot more guesthouses and cafes, though, it’s still a laid back travellers’ scene that we love.

We walk along water then up small road leading uphill away from the beach to look for a cheap guesthouse. An old man called Nyoman stops on his bike and tells us he has a nice place with air-con and hot water. We follow him to his homestay called Bagus which means ‘good’ in Indonesian – very real, very Balinese and we love it. The entrance to his house is an elaborate gate carved out of black volcanic stone from Mount Agung that last erupted in 1963. The family compound has a number of separate buildings surrounded by pink and white frangipanis, ferns, palms, bougainvillea and orchids. Our room is lovely with an open-air bathroom, a big verandah with low cane chairs and table and all with views over the village – all for $10 as well as breakfast! He also tells us that he can take us back to Kuta at 8am in the morning. Everything is arranged in minutes!

Next door is the Ozone Bar – a trendy travellers’ place with raised ‘chill out’ areas covered with cushions. We order beers, mie goreng and fish satay. Next we make a dash across the car park in the rain to a tiny bar with a friendly barman. We stay for hours talking to him as well as to a Welsh expat and a man from Darwin. Drink too many Margaritas after a great time then to bed.

Thursday 29th March, 2012

Padang Bai to Legian

Wake at 6.30am to the sound of little voices coming from the school across the road. We watch them doing exercises to music that’s blaring through the whole village. After a bath in our little outdoor bathroom we wander down to the water.

Lots of colourful outriggers sit on the sandy shore while a big car ferry is being loaded at the pier at the other end of the bay. Despite being Bali’s main port, Padang Bai is still a tranquil fishing village that’s kept most of its traditional charm. Definitely coming back!

After the rain yesterday, we’re very happy to see a cloudless blue sky and a hot sun already burning us as we walk along the beachfront. Back at Bagus, Nyoman is eagerly waiting for us as he’s made our breakfast and set it up on our verandah – banana pancakes, fruit plates and tea and coffee.

With breakfast over he gives Mark a ride on the back of his motorbike to find an ATM. His brother, Made, arrives in a bemo soon after to drive us the one and a half hours to Kuta. The Beach Road is surprisingly busy especially as we reach the outskirts of Sanur.

Finally in Kuta, we get dropped off down near the beach and walk up Jalan Bensari to look for a place to stay. We love this area especially Un’s Hotel but think we might stay somewhere else for a change. We look at lots of hotels but end up back at Un’s where we’re lucky to get the last room. It just also happens to be a great room – right near the gate on the ground floor.

Before doing anything we must have a swim in the pool – so pretty here surrounded by tropical gardens and with flowering bougainvillea pouring over the top balconies. Our next job is to hire a motorbike from a guy just up the laneway so we can drive over to French Leather in Legian. Ivan is here with the jackets we ordered four days ago. They look great so I order two more – a dark purple one for me and a tan one for Lauren.

From here we drive around to the beach good surf then to Kopi Pot on Jalan Legion for lime sodas and chicken sate. Still hungry we drive over to Jalan Pentaii to another old favourie, Made’s Warung, for prawn cocktails. We come here every time we come to Bali and it’s always remained the same.

Down near the Art Market we’re very lucky to run into one of Bali’s religious festivals. Long lines of women in temple dress balancing baskets of offerings on their heads are followed by men playing gamelan instruments and wearing their own temple dress. Next is a tall gold tower decorated with coloured paper and carried on bamboo poles. The procession seems to be headed to the beach so maybe we’ll see some of it later.

Right now, though, we have shopping to do and spend ages buying clothes for our Dolly, shorts for Mark, pants for me and three batik sarong. Back to Un’s for a swim and a sleep.

On the bike about five o’clock, we ride down to beach which is crowded with feral westerners – probably Australians. We see Nicky and promise to come back when the sun gets lower, too hot now. Walking up past the temple near the art market, we eat at a traditional warung – noodle soup with chicken, coke and beer for $7.

From here we head along the beach towards Tuban – better here and much quieter. Here we also find where the procession ended up with lots of local people in temple dress hanging around. A gamelan band is playing on an elevated platform and a ceremony is happening down by the water. About fifty women and children in colourful temple clothes are sitting behind an old man dressed entirely in white who is tinkling a tiny bell. Yellow and white fringed Balinese umbrellas add to the pretty scene although we don’t have a clue what’s going on.

Now it’s back to Nicky and Sexy Hotdog – ‘still sexy’ she says but now she’s called Sexy Hotdog Big Bum. While we watch the sunset and drink beers and bacardis we have lots of fun with these old friends. I get a manicure and a pedicure – just nail painting really, with flowers, of course. Next I’m conned into a neck massage, buy bracelets and anklets for Dolly then Mark has to buy a bracelet from Nicky. ‘You need two’, she says shoving them into our bag – hilarious! Eight t-shirts and three dresses later for Lauren from Hotdog, this has cost us a fortune but we’ve loved every minute of it.

Up to Poppies I to Secret Garden for drinks then ride back to Un’s to dump the bike. From here we walk around the laneways nearby stopping at a little bar for a horrible Margarita then food at a cafe near Un’s. Bed.

Friday 30th March, 2012


Our last day in Bali and we’ve got lots to do. An early swim then off on the motor bike. We drive out past Jalan Legian where we find a local market partly outdoors and partly under cover. No tourists here which is always a bonus. Every stall has a little raised altar attached to a wooden pole. On top are little bowls of flowers and sticks of burning incense. We buy one for home as well as two pretty boxes that the Balinese use during religious festivals.

Now Mark decides he wants to have a surf before we leave so he hires a board in Jalan Bensari while I wander around the laneways doing some last minute shopping. He really enjoyed his surf just down off the beach with only him and a Balinese guy out.

Later, across from the Art Market I like the look of a lovely big open-air restaurant so we head over for lunch. Very posh sitting on cushioned lounges next to cool fountains but unbelievably cheap – a good find.

We have one more thing to do before we leave. Yesterday as soon as we got back to Kuta, we sent a text to Bali Barney about returning his $30. Unfortunately he’s back in Australia but he gave us the phone number of a Balinese friend and told us to give it to him. We couldn’t get hold of him yesterday and now today Mark’s phone won’t work. So Mark decides to give it to a little grandmother he’s seen in our laneway with a baby about the same age as our Abi.

We walk up to the market where he’d seen her earlier and Mark asks a guy in the stall if he knows her. It turns out that she is his mother and the baby is his own little girl. He calls out to her and she comes from the house behind. When Mark gives her the money she is sooo happy but doesn’t really understand what it’s all about. Soon we have other people bringing out their babies obviously hoping we’ll give them money as well. They don’t seem to mind that we don’t but we feel bad anyway.

Back at Un’s to start packing and get ready to leave. On dark we have our last frozen margaritas at Un’s Café overlooking the laneway. A lovely way to finish this wonderful holiday.

Get a bemo to the airport and eight o’clock and have a great flight home with three seats each.  

Saturday 31st March, 2012


Jillian is going to Newcastle this morning and is picking us up from Central and will drive us home – very spoilt by our beautiful friend. We talk the whole way and the time flies. Thank you, Jillian.

Home to Lauren and Abi and my Daddy – yippee!

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Uluru-Ayers Rock, Australia


 Our Itinerary

22/10/2020   ThursNewcastle to Sydney 
23/10/2020   FriSydney to Uluru 
24/10/2020   SatUluru 
25/10/2020   SunUluru 
26/10/2020   MonUluru to Kata Tjuta to Uluru 
27/10/2020   TuesUluru to Sydney to Newcastle 

Thursday 22nd October, 2020

 Newcastle to Sydney

After catching the train from Hamilton to Central Station in Sydney we walk up Oxford Street to Jillian and Michael’s apartment in Surry Hills. With Covid still happening, the streets are much quieter than we’ve ever seen before. Apparently lots of people are working from home and lots more have lost their jobs.

At seven o’clock we head up to the Courthouse Hotel for dinner. The lift is tiny so it’s a struggle for Michael to get his wheelchair inside but eventually we’re all in for drinks and dinner. Later we walk around to Tam’s apartment to meet her and Matt.      They meet us outside for a long chat then the four of us have more drinks at home.

Friday 23rd October, 2020

Sydney to Uluru

 At six thirty Mark and I are up, showered and ready to leave. Walking back to Central Station is exciting as always when we’re off to the airport. Only the Domestic this time as international travel is sadly non-existent. And it’s the reason we’re flying to Ayers Rock instead of Thailand or Bali or anywhere else overseas.

This Ayers Rock trip was booked in August but all flights were suspended after the Indigenous community closed the National Park. A plane load of tourists were virtually spun around and flown back to Brisbane on the 4th August. The Mutitjulu Aboriginal community blockaded the gates to the park as they were rightly worried about the risk to locals from visitors flying in from interstate Covid-19 hotspots.

We’d planned to fly to Brisbane that day and then onto Ayers Rock so we made a quick change of plan and flew to Darwin instead. This ended up being a fantastic trip and now we’re still going to the Rock anyway. Things usually work out.

At Sydney Domestic we’re all stopped by police to be interviewed before getting into the boarding area. Not only do we have to show id and the Northern Territory Border Pass, but we have also have to show our bank statements to prove that we haven’t been in a hotspot in the last fourteen days. 

The terminal is weirdly quiet – we wear masks and social distancing is advised – but on the plane we’re all squashed in like sardines! The plane is so full that Mark and I haven’t even got seats next to each other but at least we’re across the aisle. Not a big issue on a three hour flight.

As we approach Uluru, people are cramming the windows to see the Rock below – we only get a glimpse from our aisle seats. But disembarking straight onto the scorching tarmac, we can see it sitting alone and majestic in the distance. Amazing!

So, should we say ‘Ayers Rock’ or ‘Uluru’? Officially, it’s both – actually ‘Uluru/Ayers Rock’. It was originally called Ayers Rock by William Gosse who was the first European to set eyes on it in 1873. He named it after the Chief Secretary of South Australia at the time – very boring – but then in 1993 the name was changed to Ayers Rock / Uluru, acknowledging the Aboriginal name. Even better, in 2002 the names were switched around to prioritise the Aboriginal name.

Another cool fact is that while the Rock has two names it also has two UNESCO World Heritage Listings. The first was in 1987 for its unique geology then in 1997 for its cultural significance to the Aboriginal people.

We wait in long socially distanced lines in the shade outside the terminal as only a certain number of people can be inside at the one time. Each person has to go through the whole border security process that we’d already done a few hours ago in Sydney. We don’t really care though as there’s a real holiday buzz despite everyone wearing face masks – bizarre!

Two hours later we’re all put on a series of buses headed for Yulara only ten minutes away. Yulara is the only settlement in this area and situated just outside Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park.  Most of the town is made up of Ayers Rock Resort and the rest is where resort staff and tour guides live. It’s also the home of the National Indigenous Training Academy for Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people.

Leaving the airport we see the vast semi-arid landscape which we really came to appreciate when we visited Katherine a few months ago. The red dirt is striking against a brilliant blue sky.

Turning into Yulara we drop people off at the Emu Walk Apartments and at the Lost Camel which are both budget accommodation options and where we would normally have stayed until I found an awesome deal on Luxury Escapes. So now we’re in the five-star Sails in the Desert resort, daaaarling! – we never stay anywhere five star! Instead of $600 a night we’re only paying $300 a night. This is still really, really expensive but we do get a buffet breakfast each day plus a Fields of Light tour tonight.

Now we pull into Sails so called because of the soaring white sails that overlap the resort. Inside we walk straight into a gallery and gift shop showcasing Aboriginal art then check in at Reception. All the staff are local people and are sooo friendly and funny. ‘Palya’ they say, which is a greeting in the Pitjantjatjara/Yankunytjatjara language. We’re given the rundown on the resort and all the activities they offer for free.

Our room isn’t ready just yet so we settle into the busy glass-walled bar and restaurant area for prawn nibblies and a glass of champagne each – welcome to Ayers Rock Resort – love it already.

Later we’re shown to our room with a wide balcony facing the pool. The room is big with all the things a five-star resort is supposed to have. After showers and a nap we head back to the reception area for our bus to The Field of Light experience which is part of our package.

On the way we drive around the Resort past the camping ground and the Pioneer Resort which is currently closed to tourists – Covid again – and is being used to house staff.  Ten minutes later we pull up at the bottom of a track that leads up to the viewing area. At the top of the dune, Ayers Rock is facing us in the distance with the installation in a broad field below. At this time of day there just appears to be a whitish glow and we’ll have to wait till dark when the 50,000 solar-powered stems light up.

So what is The Field of Light? It’s a light installation created by British artist Bruce Monroe who fell in love with the Red Centre in 1992. He said that he “wanted to create an illuminated field of stems that, like the dormant seed in a dry desert, would burst into bloom at dusk with gentle rhythms of light under a blazing blanket of stars”. He developed his idea over a decade then returned to Ayers Rock in 2016 to install it. It was only supposed to stay for a season but it’s still here and has now been extended for another seven years.

Before dark, we’re handed outback canapes and drink sparkling wine and beer. Mark is having a great time drinking my share as well. I just stick with a champagne and orange – hate wine and beer. As darkness falls, the glass spheres slowly come to life in brilliant reds, blues, purples, green and every other colour of the rainbow.

Late we all walk down to immerse ourselves amongst the lights. Pathways wind across the fields which seem much bigger at this level and seem to go on forever. It’s been a surprisingly fabulous experience.

Back on the bus we’re looking forward to drinks and something to eat. Driving back through the desert it’s very dark by now so the resort is like a little glowing oasis. We’re too late to have dinner at Sails so we head over to Town Square where the Gecko Bar is pumping with locals and a few tourists.

We order a pizza and have a fun night with beer and my smuggled in Bacardi. Bed about 9.30pm when the bar closes – early nights in the resort which suits us as well.

Saturday 24th October, 2020


Our plan today is to hang around here this morning then we’re booked on a sunset tour of Uluru starting about two o’clock this afternoon.

In the main dining room we find that our package includes a full breakfast which would cost us $45 each otherwise. It’s usually a buffet style but with COVID we all have to stay seated while the waiters come to our table. We can still eat as much as we like so we both order two meals each. We figure that a huge breakfast will mean we won’t need to buy lunch – pretty expensive here.

The resort also offers free cultural experiences like Bush Food Experience, Bush Yarns, Guided Garden Walks, Didgeridoo Workshop and more. So at 10 o’clock we wander over towards the grassy area near Town Square where the Bush Yarns are about to start at the Circle of Sand. A lovely Aboriginal man called Leon tells us about the weapons that the local people used for hunting, some still do but he says he stopped using them when he was given a rifle – ha ha. We learn a lot which is one of the things we love about travel – like, we thought all Aboriginal people used boomerangs – wrong! Leon also shows us women’s tools and techniques they use to gather bush tucker. We love it all!

Later, we hang out at Town Square and the Mingkiri Arts Gallery where we buy Indigenous crafts for us and for gifts. We’ve really fallen in love with Aboriginal artwork since our visit to Darwin a few months ago.

Now we decide to visit the Camel Farm which is on the other side of Yulara. We wait for the shuttle bus that comes about every half hour. A young Aboriginal woman chats to us at the stop. The small bus winds around the resort mainly dropping off workers at their accommodation near the camping area – we’re the only tourists. 

The Uluru Camel Farm is the largest working camel farm in Australia operating five tours per day and home to sixty working camels from the wilds of Australia. We stop to talk to a real camel cowboy then a camel cowgirl who tells us how much she loves the camels and how each one has a very distinct personality, so we wander around the series of large pens where the camels are held to say hello.

But camels aren’t indigenous to Australia and are now considered to be a pest. They were first introduced here in the 1840’s to assist in the exploration of inland Australia. Incredibly, between 1840 and 1907 around 20,000 camels were imported from India! At first they were domestic, but from the 1920s as people started using vehicles and the camels were just abandoned. Once they were released in the open, they became feral and started multiplying out of control. Today there’s about three million of them – Australia actually has the largest wild population of Arabian camels in the world!! More about this later.

We check out the rest of the Farm which has its own Saddlery, where they make and repair their own saddles, the Royal Mail Hotel and Old Tom’s Water Hole. While we wait for the shuttle to take us back to Sails, we buy drinks at the General Store.

At the Resort we head straight for Town Square to have lunch at the Gecko Bar. We sit outside in the shade near the fountain and share an excellent hamburger.

At 2.45pm we wait with a large group outside Sails – getting picked up for our Uluru Sunset Tour with SEIT Tours. This will be a five hour tour of the Rock costing $177 each. Our driver/guide is Barry again who is just as enthusiastic as he was last night. We’re looking forward to learning a lot more today – old farts!

It’s a short ten-minute drive to the UNESCO World Heritage site of the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. At the entrance we show our passes although the park fee was included in our package and anyway, the fee has been waved during these COVID times – everything is being done to try to attract tourists.

Of course, we’ve already seen the Rock looming ahead of us – it’s HUUUGE! A giant red blob sitting alone on the flat desert plain. At 348 metres high, 3.6 kilometres long and 1.9 kilometres wide we can’t but be impressed. What’s even more impressive is when Barry tells us that the Rock extends six kilometres below ground – straight down – bloody hell!

After stopping a couple of times to get out of the bus to take photos, we drive around to the eastern side of the Rock, eventually pulling into the Kuniya carpark. From here we follow Barry to the base of Uluru. It’s surprising to see lots of tall trees – River Red Gums – compared to the low lying scrub of the rest of the landscape.

The track leads us to an overhang or small cave where ancient aboriginal art covers the ceiling and the walls. Barry explains what the different drawings mean, like a circle with concentric rings means a water hole and an empty circle means no water.

The paintings were made by the Mala people who were the ancestors of the Anangu people, the traditional owners. Barry tells us about Tjukurpa which is basically everything to do with Anangu spirituality and culture. He says this is not just an abstract idea but lives in the land and the people.

Further on, we reach the Mutitjulu waterhole at the base of the rock. Uluru receives around 300mm of rain on average each year which creates waterfalls and some flowing into Mutitjulu.  Looking up, the Rock is extremely beautiful with crevices and soft folds smoothed by wind and rain over millions of years.

More Barry info is that Uluru isn’t made up of red rock but is actually a grey sedimentary rock called arkose sandstone. This is high in iron which rusts when exposed to the air to form the beautiful red colour it’s famous for.

Back in the bus we drive around to the opposite side of the Rock where we start the Mala Walk. This is dotted with lots of traditional cultural sites and we find a cave where the ceiling is black with soot from ancient campfires.

We meet the bus at a carpark which was once the starting off point for climbing Uluru which was officially banned in 2019. We can see the trail which looks scarily steep especially the first section. Google says that ‘an estimated 37 people have died on Uluru since Western tourists began climbing the site in the middle of last century via a track so steep in parts that some scared visitors descend backward or on all fours. Some slipped on wet rock and fell to their deaths.’

The Anangu people always requested that visitors refrain from climbing the rock out of respect for their ancient culture. Aboriginal people have called Uluru home for over 30,000 years so I think they’ve got the right to stop these fuckwits wanting to climb it just for a thrill. Stats say that an average of 135 people a day climbed it – even English royalty like Prince Charles and Princess Diana who climbed it on their 1983 tour.

And you can’t think of Ayers Rock without remembering the terrible story of Azaria and Lindy Chamberlain. Azaria was only two months old when she was taken by a dingo from her parent’s tent in August 1980. Lindy was tried and convicted of murder on 29 October 1982 and sentenced to life imprisonment. In 1986 when a climber fell tragically to his death, a piece of Azaria’s clothing was found near his body. This finding near numerous dingo lairs led to Lindy Chamberlain’s release from prison.

But now, as the sun starts to drop we drive to the Talinguru Nyakunytjaku viewing area to watch sunset over Uluru with Kata Tjuta in the distance. Barry sets up tables to serve drinks and nibblies and, as usual, when there’s food to be had, people swarm to grab as much as they can – pretty funny and they’re a really nice crew anyway.

With a glass of champagne each, we pose for photos with the sun setting behind Uluru then chat with some Asian ladies who are having a ball – love Asians.

Back at Sails we run into them in the restaurant and they ask us to sit with them. Lydia and Volet are from Canberra both originally from the Philippines and married to Australian diplomats plus Leta from Bali. We have a few drinks with them and plan to meet for dinner tomorrow night. They’re all hilarious and definitely out for a good time.

Bed about ten o’clock after a wonderful first day. 

Sunday 25th October, 2020


At 4.30am we’re up to get ready for our sunrise camel safari. Again we’re picked up outside Sails for the short drive to the Camel Farm. About twenty of us line up next to the camels which are tied together in a long row. John introduces himself as our guide then he and a young female cameleer called Lisa, decide which people will ride which camel – big person, big camel.

Our camel’s name is Khan but Nico is the camel directly behind us and I think she’s fallen in love with Mark. She keeps snuggling up to him and rubbing her face on his back. Leaving the Camel Farm we head out into the desert as the darkness slowly lifts. In the peace and coolness of the morning we ride over the rich red sand dunes while Lisa walks beside us telling us about the flora and fauna along the trail.

On top of a sand dune we stop to watch the sun rising over Uluru and Kata Tjuta which we’ll be exploring tomorrow morning. Before we came to Uluru I thought this camel thing might be a bit touristy but we’re here in the middle of the Australian outback riding a wild camel! Awesome!

After an hour and a half we plod our way back to the Camel Farm where we warm up in the General Store for a breakfast of warm beer baked damper and hot chocolate. A perfect end to a great experience.

Before leaving we all wander over to the baby animal pens where I feed a bottle of milk to a cute black calf and Mark finds a baby camel who loves up to him as well – Mark, ‘The Camel Whisperer’!

Back at Sails it’s still only early and we’re actually in time for breakfast. Today we order pancakes, bacon and eggs plus the usual fruit and croissants they give us anyway.

At eleven o’clock we walk over to the Amphitheatre for the free Bush Tucker Experience.  Volet and Lydia are here as well. Leon who we met yesterday when he told us bush yarns is with another Aboriginal man called Joseph and together they explain how the indigenous people hunted, gathered and prepared bush tucker from the local vegetation. Joseph then makes cookies from bush foods and we get to try some he’s ‘made earlier’.

Now we wander over to Town Square with Lydia and Volet where we hang out in the Mingkiri Arts Gallery. We all buy up big. I also find a fly-net at the general store. We’ve seen lots of people wearing these over their hats and thought it was hilarious but I’m up for it for our trip to Kata Tjuta in the morning. Mark says he’ll brave it.

Later we head back to the Arkani Theatre to watch Capturing the Cosmos. This shows the current research being carried out by astronomers in Australia and narrated by Geoffrey Rush – really worth watching.

Lydia and Volet are going to the Guided Garden Walk but Mark and I decide to skip it – need a nanna nap after our early start.  And besides Mark is feeling unwell – probably something to do with his diabetes.

By six thirty Mark is still feeling off so I walk down to meet the girls on my own. Luckily they’d remembered to book in at the restaurant as it’s packed already. I don’t know what they do when the whole resort is booked out in pre-COVID times. 

Dinner is not overly expensive and the desserts look amazing. We all get stuck into the alcohol except for Leta who, after a near death experience with a motorbike and a truck in Bali last year, is now alcohol free and is into meditation and all that stuff. She was actually running around Uluru on our tour yesterday in bare feet as she wanted to feel ‘at one with the earth’ – ha ha.  But she’s no wanker and has us laughing all night. And Lydia and Volet are just as funny making dry comments in their gorgeous Asian accents. I love these girls!! 

And being married to diplomats they’ve lived all over the world and travel somewhere big every year as well. They mainly do Europe on expensive trips but they love hearing about all the weird places that Mark and I go to. Could talk with them all night! 

Wobbling back to the room, Mark is a bit better so he should be good for the 4.30am alarm to wake us in time for our Kata Tjuta tour.

Monday 26th October, 2020

 Uluru to Kata Tjuta to Uluru

Like yesterday we wait in the dark outside Sails where we meet the small group who’ll be going to Kata Tjuta. They’re all friendly but it looks as if one woman might be a bit hyper.

Today our guide is John, a bent little old man decked out in khaki – he’s the real deal and just as passionate as Barry. As we head out of Yalara towards Kata Tjuta, he tells us about the cultural significance of the area to the Aboriginal people. Because this place is so sacred lots of dreamtime stories are told about it. One legend remembers the great snake king, Wanambi, who was thought to live at the top of Mount Olga and whose breath could turn a breeze into a hurricane to punish people who committed evil deeds.

After about half an hour we stop to walk up a track to a viewing area to watch the sun rise over Uluru thirty-five kilometres to the east. The horizon turns to gold then orange before the sun peeps above the horizon. Behind us is Kata Tjuta also known as The Olgas – remembering my old Social Studies days in primary school – so, two names like Uluru/Ayers Rock. The name The Olgas was given by an explorer in 1872 after the Russian Queen Olga but then given a second name Kata Tjuta later in the 1900’s to commemorate its Aboriginal meaning.

Besides the view, we love the Social Distancing sign. Instead of the usual ‘1.5 metres apart’ the Northern Territory version reads ‘2 Sand Goannas’ or ‘2 Digging Sticks’ or ‘4 Carrying Bowls.’ Not too practical because we have no idea about how big these things are but we get the message anyway.

From this distance we can see that Kata Tjuta isn’t one single rock like Uluru, but a collection of large domed rocks. Kata Tjuta means ‘many heads’ in the Aboriginal language which really says it all. There’s actually thirty-six domes with Mount Olga being the highest point at 1,066 metres which is two hundred metres higher than Uluru.

Now we head back down the track and set off to the western side of Kata Tjuta. Here John pulls into a picnic area which is just a couple of basic shelters set amongst dusty red dunes and patches of greenery. He’s really happy that we all jump in to help and he especially loves the chatty lady.

Mark cooks toast on a gas burner and we all make our own coffee and hot chocolate. We need hot drinks because did I say how cold it is! I’ve wrapped myself up in scarves so I look like a mummy. Oh, and how’s the flies! I’m super grateful for my fly net – I think Mark is eyeing it off but too late baby!

After clearing away breakfast, John gives us his geology lecture – love it! He tells us that the rocks are the remains of erosion that began around 500 million years ago. And, like Uluru, they’re just the visible tips of enormous slabs of rock that extend as far as six kilometres into the ground.

But now we’re ready for our walk through Walpa Gorge. The 2.6 kilometre rocky trail follows the natural creek between two of the tallest domes of Kata Tjuṯa. We’re right between the sheer red rugged walls that tower above us. It feels almost prehistoric. The Gorge is a refuge for plants and animals from the hot desert sun and we even come across a small stream, extremely important for native animals and the Aboriginal people as a source of drinking water. The problem is that wild camels often guzzle up and pollute not only this stream but lots of others in the area.

Every now and again John stops to give us more information. He tells us that Walpa means ‘windy’ – no shit! It’s blowing a gale! There’s another walk we could have done through the Valley of the Winds but thank God we gave that one a miss.

As we head back out of the Gorge, we have a spectacular, sweeping view of the desert plains stretching far into the distance towards South Australia. And, despite the cold, the wind and the flies it’s been amazing to experience this special place. 

By ten o’clock we’re back at Sails and luckily still in time for breakfast. Again we eat up big and enjoy being spoilt – this five-star thing is a real novelty but really appealing and I just hope we’re not getting soft!!!

After the very cold morning the weather is hot again so we decide to have a swim and hang around the pool for a while. Desert weather is so extreme – cold nights and hot days – and not much rain which means that nearly every day is clear blue skies and just how we love it.

At three o’clock we wander over to the Lawn Stage near the Town Square for a Didgeridoo Workshop. A local man explains how it works and demonstrates how to play it. A few people in the crowd have a go and they’re all hopeless. It’s the circular breathing technique that apparently takes ages to master. Anyway this guy is amazing!

Tonight we meet up with Lydia and Volet again. Leta has left this morning for her home in Brisbane so it’s just the four of us tonight. We meet at 6.30pm in the dining room for a posh dinner especially the beautiful desserts. I’m so impressed I even take photos.

We all have too many drinks with the girls keeping us entertained all night. They’re prolific travellers and Volet is already planning trips for us all to go on together – oh God, not a cruise! We’ll definitely visit Canberra early next year for a weekend to catch up and meet their husbands. We’re already Facebook friends so I can see what a big social life they have as well. Love them!

Tuesday 27th October, 2020

Uluru to Sydney to Newcastle

Today we go home – could really have stayed a few more days but at least we’ve experienced this wonderful place.

After breakfast we meet the girls outside to wait for the bus to the airport. Big hugs and photos before we board on the sweltering tarmac. We see Uluru for the last time as we head home but then actually fly over Lake Eyre, you know that massive dry salt lake in the middle of Australia – lucky!

Land in Sydney then through the eerily deserted Domestic Terminal to catch the train home.

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Northern Territory, Australia 2020

This trip has changed so many times because of all the chaos around COVID-19. Whenever a new hotspot turns up flights are cancelled and new flights booked. So the first booking was a return trip from Sydney to Uluru with Jetstar. We’d booked 3 nights at Sails in the Desert at Ayers Rock. All good until Sydney became a hotspot according to the Northern Territory government and the flights were cancelled and we were given Jetstar credit coupons. We don’t live in Sydney so we thought we were safe to book Newcastle to Brisbane and Brisbane to Uluru then Uluru back to Sydney. Then Port Stephens was declared a hotspot by the NT and Newcastle Airport is in Port Stephens. After phone calls to Newcastle Airport, the Queensland government and the NT government we found that if we went straight to Newcastle Airport without stopping then stay at an airport hotel in Brisbane we were right to go.

Next, our Uluru to Sydney flight was cancelled so booked Uluru to Brisbane to Newcastle flights. All good until the Aboriginal people closed Uluru National Park and Uluru Airport. This means all flights cancelled and more Jetstar credit coupons.

The closure of Uluru was announced yesterday on Tuesday 4th August but we were determined that we weren’t staying home. We decided to keep the Newcastle to Brisbane flight and work out something from there. So on to the diary ….

Wednesday 5th August, 2020
Newcastle to Brisbane

Our flight from Newcastle to Brisbane leaves at 5.30pm so we have to decide this morning if we’ll just stay in Brisbane for a few days and return to Newcastle on Monday as planned… or to take another week off work and either fly to Cairns or to Darwin. Mark checks out the weather forecast and it looks bad all along the east coast over the weekend and into early next week. Darwin on the other hand, will be hot and sunny so it’s a no-brainer.

Besides, I’ve been talking to Kerrie and she tells me that Ross Kerridge will be on the Brisbane flight this afternoon. Marion is already in Darwin staying with her sister Margaret so I give her a call. She convinces me that Darwin is the place to be – hot and tropical!

Kerrie and David are leaving tomorrow to drive to Brisbane before Queensland shuts its borders to NSW on Sat morning. They want to see Todd in case this thing goes on forever.

But then comes more news that some fuckwit from Sydney had been spreading his germs all over Hamilton on the weekend so there’s every chance that the Northern Territory will now class Newcastle as a hot spot.

I call Marion who’s been calling the NT government and I do the same. So far so good and we decide to take the chance. At 1pm I book Qantas flights for tomorrow to Darwin returning to Brisbane next Thursday.

Besides all the phone calls, border restrictions, both of us sorting out annual leave from work and constant Facebook posts about Hamilton being Covid infected, I still haven’t packed! I’m actually standing in the middle of our bedroom just staring into space.

Part of me wants to just forget the whole bloody thing but then I know this might be the only chance for who-knows-when that we’ll get to go away. We just want to be on a plane and be somewhere hot and steamy.

At 3.30pm we say goodbye to our three darling girls and are heading towards Newcastle Airport in an Uber. We have to track our trip so that we can prove we didn’t get out of the car between home and the airport which is in the Port Stephens hotspot. We chat with Ross then all don facemasks as we board the plane.

In Brisbane we walk to the Ibis Brisbane Airport Hotel where we have to isolate for the night. Originally we’d booked a cheaper place but it was 7kms from the terminal which doesn’t fit in with the Northern Territory’s border rules of staying within 4kms of Brisbane Airport. All this shit can make your head spin!

At the Ibis we have to check in and not leave our room. We’re allocated a quarantine room where we can get room service. A few drinks and a pizza later we’re in bed.

Thursday 6th August, 2020
Brisbane to Darwin

This morning we walk to the terminal and grab a coffee and muffins before boarding at 8am. Once again, masks are compulsory, which isn’t a great experience on a four and a half hour flight. Since we’re flying Qantas we expected to be able to watch inflight movies but because of Covid19 it’s not available. WTF?

The issue today is that our flight lands at 12.30pm which is half an hour after the NT government decides which areas are classed as hotspots. And because of the big deal about Covid cases in Newcastle (they’ve been two confirmed cases overnight) we suspect that it will become a hotspot and we won’t be allowed in and will have to go into quarantine until the next available flight out.

Anyway we can’t do anything about it and just go with the flow. At Darwin airport we all line up to be interviewed and to hand in our border passes. Ross is ahead of us so we know that if he gets through we should be okay as well. And yes, he’s in! Next our turn and we’re asked lots of questions before being waved through.

So, so great to be here and wonderful to walk outside into the warm sunshine. Palm trees and Aboriginal sculptures remind us that we’ve actually made it to the tropical Top End.

Marion is here to pick us up in Margaret’s little yellow car. We all fit and head off to Margaret’s place where Marion has made lunch.

We drive to Fanny Bay which is one of the older and nicer areas of Darwin. And we love Margaret’s house – in a tree-lined street surrounded by tropical plants and tall palms. We sit outside next to the pool, making salad sandwiches and swapping Covid stories.

Lots to talk about and plans to make. Later Marion drives Mark and me around the city to get our bearings. Most of the town is flat with the city proper on a low bluff overlooking Darwin Harbour, with Frances Bay to the east and Cullen Bay to the west. We like how small it is and that the water is never far from anything.

Marion drops us at the Travelodge where we’ve booked a room for tonight. It’s in a good spot in the town centre but not sure if we’ll stay here tomorrow – we’ll check out later. After dumping our bags we’re straight into the pool. It’s wonderful to be in the water again and surrounded by lush gardens and even a waterfall.

Later while resting in our room, I read up on the history of the area which is what we usually do before we go anywhere but there wasn’t time this trip. This is what I learnt …. The greater Darwin area is the ancestral home of the Larrakia people, but on the 9th September 1839, HMS Beagle sailed into Darwin harbour during its survey of the area. John Clements Wickham named the region “Port Darwin” in honour of their former shipmate Charles Darwin, who had sailed with them on the ship’s previous voyage in 1836. The settlement there became the town of Palmerston in 1869, but it was renamed Darwin in 1911.

At 5 o’clock we meet Margaret outside. We’ve met her a couple of times before when she’s been down to Newcastle for Christmas and for Marion’s birthday parties on Boxing Day.

She drives us back to her place to drop off the car then the three of us walk down to the Darwin Trailer Boat Club on the shore of Fanny Bay. It’s the city’s oldest seaside club, now a Darwin institution. We’re surprised how many people are here and it’s why Marion and Ross had come down earlier to grab a table. Apparently it’s like this every night as people come to watch Darwin’s famed tropical sunsets.

After ordering beers and wine, we enjoy the spectacle of the sun sinking into the Timor Sea. It reminds us of untold times in Bali that we’ve watched sunsets on Kuta Beach – one day again soon, we hope.

After a seafood dinner and smorgasbord, Mark and I call an Uber and head into town. Instead of going back to our room we decide to check out the area for a bar. We find a cluster just around the corner in Mitchell Street – Shenannigans, The Tap Bar and Six Tanks Brewery. We settle in at The Tap Bar for an hour listening to live music and trying to dodge the smokers.

We also book a trip to Litchfield National Park on Sunday – all online in five minutes flat – the internet never ceases to amaze me!

Home to bed about 10.30pm.

Friday 7th August, 2020

Because we’re smack in the middle of the dry season (which runs from May to October), we’re not surprised that the weather is warm and sunny without a cloud in the sky. The Top End has distinct wet and dry seasons with the temperature being virtually the same all year round. While the dry season is very dry, the wet season is very wet with monsoonal downpours and thunderstorms every afternoon. Apparently, this is the ‘off’ tourist season but Margaret said that most locals love it.

This morning we decide to move hotels. We’ve found The Palms on and love the tropical look of it. While the Travelodge has a nice pool area, it’s still one of the generic high rise hotels. And anyway, the Palms is cheaper at $88 a night.

Dragging our packs through the streets we pass lots of Aboriginal people just milling about or squatting in groups – some of them drunk but all looking pitiful. So sad!

We make our way to The Esplanade which runs along the cliffs of Darwin Harbour and the green lawns of the shady Bicentennial Park. The Palms Resort sits on the corner of the Esplanade and Herbert Street, a perfect spot within walking distance of shops and the Waterfront.

After checking out the lovely pool (we’ll be back later) and settling into our room, we head off in search of breakfast. We decide to head down to the Waterfront, walking along The Esplanade.

This is a truly lovely area with lots of old buildings. Actually, we’re surprised to see any old buildings at all as the city has been almost entirely rebuilt four times – after the 1897 cyclone, the 1937 cyclone, Japanese air raids during World War II, and Cyclone Tracy in 1974. We suspect that most of these ‘old’ buildings are replicas of what once was.

What is for real, though, is the very pretty Government House. It’s a white Victorian Gothic villa with shaded verandahs set amongst lush hillside gardens. It’s the oldest European building in the Northern Territory and miraculously survived all the cyclones and bombings.

We also pass State Square which houses the Supreme Court buildings and Darwin’s Parliament House – a huge monstrosity of a building – what were they thinking???

Nearby we find a staircase shaded by trees and vines that leads down to the harbour. At the bottom we come across the historic Oil Tunnels and plan to come back for a tour after breakfast.

Down more steps we find the Darwin Waterfront with manicured lawns, a swimming lagoon, restaurants, bars and the Wave Pool. This is a man-made outdoor pool complete with a sandy beach and where artificially made waves let swimmers ride boogie boards and other floaties. It looks amazing and we wish we’d brought our swimmers – we’ll just have to come back another day.

Breakfast is eggs on toast at an outdoor café then we head back to the Darwin Tunnels. They were built around 1942 after Japanese air raids destroyed the above-ground oil tanks. It was decided to build underground bomb-proof tanks but by the end of the war only a few tunnels had been completed and none had ever been used. Still, it’s interesting to walk along the 650 foot tunnel which is lined with information boards of photographs and stories about the Allied wartime events up here at the Top End.

Back up in the city we find Smith Street Mall where we spend ages in an Aboriginal art gallery. We buy a painting, a bag for me, a wine cooler and fridge magnets all painted by local people. We’re given coloured printouts with a photo and bio of each artist. The shop owner tells me that the lady who did the painting on my bag died in a car crash a couple of years ago – really sad.

On the way back to Palms we buy a couple of kilos of prawns to take to Margaret’s for dinner tonight then stop at historic Lyons Cottage where we sit outside in the shade of an umbrella drinking iced chocolate and iced tea – really hot by now!

So because of the heat we cool down in the pool, loving being here in the tropics. After an afternoon nap in our air-conditioned room, we grab an Uber to Margaret’s place. We sit around chatting, peeling prawns and drinking beer and wine. I actually like the wine – a Tasmanian bubbly called Josef Chromy Roaring Beach – I take a photo to remember it. Ross cooks a barbeque and Marion makes up a salad.

We make arrangements for a trip to Katherine on Monday with Marion and Ross. We’ll stay two nights and stop off at a few places on the way. Very excited about it!

After dinner we call another Uber and get the same lovely young Bangladesh guy who brought us here. He wants to bring his mother to Australia because he’s scared of her getting Covid in Dhaka – not surprisingly it’s rife over there.

Of course, we don’t go straight to bed but have a few drinks at the Darwin Hotel just around the corner from The Palms. This is only after Mark hires an electric scooter which is the rage here in Darwin. I have a try but I’m a wimp so we give up.

Saturday 8th August, 2020
Darwin to Litchfield

This morning we’re being picked up at 7am for our day trip to Litchfield National Park. Because of Covid19, tour companies can’t use minivans – social distancing – so we’re picked up in a big tour bus even though there are only twelve of us on the trip. Our driver is a tall, pretty woman called Marietta who came to Darwin from Holland twenty years ago as a backpacker and hasn’t left. We like her.

We only have one more couple to pick up and we’re soon heading out of town speeding south down the Stuart Highway. ‘The Track’ as its often called, runs almost three thousand kilometres from Darwin to Port Augusta in South Australia and is named after Scottish explorer John McDouall Stuart – the first European to cross Australia from south to north (sorry, never heard of him).

And when I say speeding, I mean speeding – the speed limit is 130kph which has only recently been changed from no speed limit at all!

Marietta introduces herself then we all call out our names and where we’re from – lucky no Melbourne people who are the lepers of Australia at the moment – ha, ha. Melbourne is currently in Stage 4 lockdown and has been for about six weeks – would hate to be them.

Litchfield National Park is just an hour-and-a-half drive from Darwin and is an important area to the Koongurrukun, Marranuggu, Werat, and Warray Aboriginal people. But the park is named after the explorer Frederick Litchfield – another European. It’s just occurred to me that Darwin, the Stuart Highway and now Litchfield are all named after white people – and probably heaps of other places as well. How fucked up for the Aboriginal people!

The landscape is dry and barren, typical of the Australian tropical savanna covered with dense grass and scattered trees. The land is also mainly flat with only a few straggly trees and shrubs – not beautiful but interesting.

Our first stop is for morning tea in the small town of Batchelor, ‘the gateway to Litchfield National Park’ (and you guessed it, named after another whitey, Mr. Batchelor, in 1912). It’s a pretty place with lots of greenery and tall trees. It’s like an oasis after the rest of the trip.

In Batchelor we stop at the Banyan Tree café, of course, named because of a huge banyan tree attached. It’s a cute place with an old car filled with tropical plants and a coffin with a white faced dummy inside.

After everyone loads up on tea and coffee we set off for the termite mounds. A really impressive sight is the hundreds of Magnetic Termite mounds standing two metres high on a wide flat plain. From a distance it looks like a graveyard with tall grey headstones. They’re up to one hundred years old with magnetic compasses – their thin edges pointing north-south and broad backs facing east-west. This aspect thermo-regulates the mounds so the termites don’t get too hot or too cold.

Nearby, Mark and I are more impressed with the four metre high Cathedral Termite Mounds. Always wanted to see these and we pose for photos next to them – tick it off the bucket list!

Now we keep driving through the Park to Florence Falls. Marietta tells us that it’s a bit of a walk but worth it once we get there. We change into our swimmers from the carpark to walk along tracks then down lots of stairs through the rainforest-filled gorge to reach the Falls – spectacular!

Water cascades into a crystal clear swimming hole surrounded by sandstone walls and the monsoon forest. We dive straight in even though the water is ‘refreshing’. Mark swims over to the falls then comes back to get me. This is the first time I’ve ever stood directly under a waterfall – tick that off the list as well!

We spend ages just floating around soaking up the beautiful surrounds. Because of the lack of tourists (Corona Virus), there are only about thirty people here. Normally this place is packed!

Time to head back, we decide to return via the one kilometre Shady Creek walk. This loops along a stream through the rainforest – so pretty. Towards the end of the track we emerge from the shade of the forest into dry open woodlands and the scorching sun. At the top we chat with some of the group then all pile back onto the bus.

Our next stop is Tomer Falls near the western boundary of the park. This time we can’t swim as it’s too hard to get down into the gorge. Instead we walk to the viewing platforms and just take photos.

Heading about 60 kilometres further south, Marietta tells us that we’ll be having lunch at Wangi Falls which is the most popular attraction in Litchfield. This is completely different again with a manicured picnic area and with the falls and pool just a short walk from the carpark.

Before swimming, though, we all have lunch in the kiosk/restaurant. Social distancing here, with our group the only ones allowed to sit down to eat. Lunch is a cold buffet salad which is perfect on this very hot day. We chat with an older couple originally from Scotland. She’s a sweet little mouse and he’s hilarious. Totally politically incorrect every time he opens his mouth (he never draws breath) so we love him instantly.

Now we walk past the Crocodile Warning signs to the pool. WTF??? We’re told that it’s safe to swim here in the dry season as the salt water crocs aren’t able to swim up the river from the coast. But what if there’s one still in there?? And the pool here is surrounded by tall reeds and I’m sure one is lurking in there somewhere.

But no-one else seems worried but I do make sure I’m in the middle. This pool is much bigger than the one at Florence but still lovely surrounded by lush monsoon rainforest. We stand around in the water chatting to the guys from our bus then at 2.30pm change back into our clothes and set off north.

Marietta explains that by now we’re now 150 kilometres from Darwin so we’ll be driving for an hour or two before our last stop at Howard Springs. This is a nature park popular with Darwin locals for weekend picnics. Marietta buys bags of dried fish to feed the turtles and barramundi – huuuge things – in the man-made pond. This area is lush with rainforest plants and was a recreational spot for soldiers during World War II.

We arrive back at our hotel about 5 o’clock and on dark, walk down Mitchell Street for a drink and food at Monsoons. A guy is playing a guitar and singing. Unfortunately he takes requests – ‘Country Roads’ – and I sing along. A fun night ending up at the Darwin Hotel once again.

Sunday 9th August, 2020

Today we plan to hang out in the city and meet at Margaret’s about three o’clock so Mark and Marion can get out to the airport to pick up the hire car for tomorrow.

Down on the Waterfront we walk along Stokes Wharf to find the Royal Flying Doctor Museum. It takes ages and the sun is belting down. Darwin Harbour looks amazing with clear blue water and clear blue skies above. The RFDS Museum also houses the Bombing of Darwin Museum so we relive the attack with a Virtual Reality experience of the bombing. We wear headsets that allow us to see a 360 degree view of the attack from where we actually are right now on Stoke’s Wharf which took the brunt of it.

It’s February 19th 1942, and this is the most significant wartime attack ever launched on Australian soil. More than two hundred Japanese aircraft bombed Darwin, destroying ships and the city’s waterfront and killing two hundred and thirty five people. The sight of the planes coming and the sound of the bombs exploding is frightening – a brilliant production. Also my first Virtual Reality experience – yet another thing to tick off the list!

At the rear of the Museum is the RFDS exhibition with a real plane that we can climb inside to see how it’s fitted out. The RFDS is significant to Darwin as the NT is where it began its aero medical operations in 1939 after being founded by the Reverend John Flynn – good trivia question.

We don’t hang around much longer and the staff are shocked that we’re leaving. ‘Oh no, we’ll be back this afternoon’, we lie and quickly fuck off out of there.


We make the long hot trek back to the Waterfront where we hire another e-bike. I’m better this time but still not confident enough to ride it around the streets. Now we change into our swimmers and pay to enter the Wave Pool. The waves today though are rough and we don’t stay long. Anyway we’re hungry and an Uber ride later we arrive at Cullen Bay.

This is a man-made housing and marina development area and is Darwin’s top residential suburb. The Marina is home to over two hundred boats and overlooked by some of Darwin’s best restaurants. We like the look of the very funky Lola’s Pergola decorated with horses from an old merry-go-round. It has a deck over the water with the boats so close we can almost touch them. After a seafood lunch we call another Uber to take us back to The Palms for a rest.

At three o’clock we order another Uber (lucky they’re cheap – about $12 a trip) to take us to Margaret’s. Mark, Ross and Marion leave for the airport to pick up the hire car while Margaret and I chat and empty the fridge. She’s having her kitchen done up and the builder is starting tomorrow. The boys will move the fridge when they get back. At 5.30pm we drive to Mindil Beach for the weekly Mindil Beach Sunset Market.

The market is said to be the heart of Darwin’s cultural melting pot with over two hundred stalls, including more than sixty food stalls. Because of Darwin’s close proximity to Asia, it means that there’s a strong Asian influence, especially in the food scene. But we find many more international food stalls – Indian, Sri Lankan, Cambodian, Vietnamese, Thai etc.

The market has a great buzz even in these Covid times. People are having picnics on the grass under tall coconut palms all along the beachfront. We split up for a while then meet on the beach just before sunset. Hundreds of people have come down to the sand – reminds us again of Kuta Beach when crowds of Balinese people and tourists head for the beach every night for sunset. And the sunset here doesn’t disappoint. As the sun falls, the sky changes from gold to orange to red – stunning!

Later Marion drops Mark and I back in town where we head straight to our local – the Darwin Hotel – but have an early night – off to Katherine in the morning.

Monday 10th August, 2020
Darwin to Katherine

At 7.30 am we check out of The Palms and book another two nights for when we return on Wednesday. Marion and Ross pick us up at the side gate and we set off south for the 320 kilometre trip to the outback town of Katherine.

With Mark driving, we take the Stuart Highway through Palmerston and Coolalinga then past the turn-off to Litchfield National Park. From here on Mark and I haven’t been on this part of the highway but the scenery is basically the same the whole trip, dry savanna with red soil and scrawny trees.

After an hour, we stop at the small township of Adelaide River. We spend half an hour at the war cemetery – Ross loves to read all the signs so we do the same. It’s a peaceful place and, like all war cemeteries, has manicured lawns and gardens.

Back near the main road, Marion and I check out the market. This consists of two stalls – one run by a grumpy woman and the other by a sweet old lady selling jams and pickles. We buy from the sweet lady.

At the servo Mark buys chocolate Billabongs for us all then we head off for Pine Creek. This is an old gold mining town which stumbled into existence when the teams building the Overland Telegraph Line in 1870 dug up some gold while digging holes for posts. Here we drive up to the lookout that has views of a deep lake, once an open cut gold mine but now filled with water.

Back down in the town, we set up in a pretty park, to have a picnic lunch that Marion has brought then decide to go off the Highway onto the Northern Goldfields Loop. The main reason for this is to visit the Grove Hill Historic Hotel. This is
63 km north of Pine Creek so it’s a long hot drive on a dirt road. We find it situated on the old Northern Railway line and it looks amazing – but sadly it’s closed!

Marion tries to chat to a couple of Asian ladies sitting in the shade of a big tree in the side yard. She’s hoping they’ll let us have a look inside but they’re not interested in being friendly. We do manage to get a look through an open shutter though and it’s amazing – full of mining artefacts and all internal walls made of corrugated iron. This industrial look is the real deal!

We keep driving hoping to find our way back to the highway but we seem to have missed the turnoff and end up ages on the horrible gravel road. Very glad to get back onto the paved highway and on our way to Edith Falls where we’re going to have a swim!

After another hour or so, we turn off the Stuart Highway once again and drive a further nineteen kilometres to Edith Falls which is now known by the Aboriginal name of Leliyn Falls – about bloody time! It’s actually a series of waterfalls but the main attraction is the vast natural swimming hole with only a small waterfall on the distant shore. The area surrounding the pool is lovely – fringed with paperbark, pandanus and grassy areas under the trees where families have set up picnics. We all jump in to cool down and spend ages floating around. The pool is spring fed so it flows all year round. We don’t bother with the any of the many walks around here although I’m sure Marion and Ross will be back to explore next week.

From here it’s only about seventy kilometres to Katherine. It’s the fourth largest town in the Territory and is known as the place where “the outback meets the tropics”. Coming into town we cross the Katherine River then turn right onto the Victoria Highway. This highway is almost seven hundred kilometres long, linking the Great Northern Highway in Western Australia with the Stuart Highway here in the Northern Territory.

On the outskirts of town we pull into the Victoria Village Hotel where Margaret has booked us in for the next two nights. It’s a strange place made up of shipping containers and mainly used by FIFO (fly-in fly-out) people working in the surrounding mines. We love it – we’ve never stayed in a shipping container before!

After settling in, we lay around till it’s time for dinner. This comes as part of the cost of the room – so, too, does breakfast we’re told. It’s like being back at residential school at UNE! It’s a buffet style with lots of choices – including desserts.

Later we decide to go star-gazing. Ross has borrowed Margaret’s telescope but we need to get out of town, away from the street lights. Marion drives a few kilometres along the Victoria Highway then pulls into a side road. It’s very dark with a clear sky so a perfect night to see the stars. Unfortunately, the telescope legs break but it’s pretty amazing with just the naked eye.

Back at the Village we play scrabble and have a few drinks before an early night.

Tuesday 11th August, 2020

We’ve decided to just hang out in and around Katherine today then do Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) tomorrow before heading back to Darwin. After breakfast at 6.30am Mark and I just chill out while Marion and Ross go for a walk. We plan to pick them up in town later.

About nine o’clock we’re all back in the car driving the thirty kilometres north-east out to Nitmiluk National Park. Marion wants to check it out to make sure we can get onto a cruise in the morning.

The Visitor Centre is fairly new and impressive with a vast interior opening onto a large outdoor deck on two levels. Trees come right up to the edge which overlooks the Gorge. We settle in for coffee and cakes then follow a winding path through the bushland down to the river.

Back in town we call in at the Katherine Museum. Inside a weatherboard house we find exhibits of old household equipment and lots of posters showing past floods. Katherine it seems, has a history of flooding, those in 1957 and 1974 but the worst was on Australia Day in 1998 which devastated the whole town and was declared a National Disaster.

In an old World War II regional air terminal we find more pioneer memorabilia and even a Gypsy Moth plane used by the Flying Doctor Service. It’s good to see that there are also Aboriginal artefacts from the region plus furniture, home wares and tools ranging in date from the late-nineteenth century to the mid-twentieth century.

Next we park in the town centre where we split up and plan to meet back in the car in an hour when we’ll find somewhere to have lunch. Mark and I check out the main street walking up one side then back down the other. There are lots of Aboriginal people hanging around and don’t look in any better condition than the poor souls in Darwin.
There doesn’t seem to be anywhere decent to eat in the town centre so we drive to Katherine Bowling Club. This is typical of bowling clubs anywhere in Australia – a bit daggy but cheap food and drinks.

After lunch we head back to the Village to grab our swimmers. Marion and Ross had come across the Katherine Hot Springs on their walk this morning along the Katherine River. These natural thermal springs are actually made up of a series of pools framed by native vegetation. This place is very pretty with the clear spring water shaded by the monsoon forest. And they’re not really hot at all – only about 25 degrees – which would have been not so good on this warm sweaty day. Surrounded by tall paperbark trees and pandanas, we spend a lovely hour or so bobbing around and chatting with the other tourists.

On dark, we eat again in the dining room then play a game of Bananas with Marion and Ross – fun.

Wednesday 12th August, 2020
Katherine to Darwin

After an early breakfast, Marion and Ross set off walking into town while we finish packing the car. Mark drives us down to the river but the ‘WARNING. CROCODILE SAFETY’ signs keep us safely inside the car.

We pick up Marion and Ross then head out to Nitmiluk National Park. The Park is vast with thirteen gorges carved out of the ancient sandstone. But because it’s the dry season we can only visit the first two by boat.

Down near the wharf, we line up (socially distanced) then go through the Covid registering before boarding the boat. We’re introduced to our driver, Josh, and our guide, Jamie. Both guys are from the Jawoyn people who are the traditional owners of the area and who jointly manage Nitmiluk National Park with the NT Parks and Wildlife Commission, as well as owning and operating Nitmiluk Tours. Jamie explains about the Jawoyn people’s association with the area and brings to life the stories of Bula the Creator and Nabilil, a dragon-like creature who camped at the entrance to the gorge.

Cruising the emerald waters, we’re hemmed in by the seventy metre high red sandstone cliffs of the Gorge which snakes its way from here for twelve kilometres along the Arnhem Land Plateau on its way to the sea. At the end of the first gorge we all disembark to a rocky area shaded by the towering cliff above us. Here Jamie points out Aboriginal rock art which he tells us could date back as far as ten thousand years ago! This is another first as this is the first time either of us have seen Aboriginal rock paintings even though we’ve seen so many on the tele. It’s awesome to know how old they are! Apparently rock art sites are dotted all over the Park and Jamie’s dreamtime stories are special.

We all follow him across a rock bar that separates the first two gorges. Boarding another boat we chug quietly up this second gorge stopping in a shady inlet to turn around. This gorge is even more spectacular but I’m sort of glad we’re not visiting all thirteen – been there, done that as they say! And it’s so hot I wish we could jump in for a swim.

Back at the Visitor Centre we’re soon speeding towards Katherine then onto the Stuart Highway heading north to Darwin. This will be a three hour trip which we break up at Lake Copperfield just south of Pine Creek. Marion and I can’t be bothered getting out of the car but Mark and Ross walk down to the water’s edge. Here they find the remains of a fresh water crocodile nest and take photos.

About six o’clock we arrive in Darwin where Marion and Ross drop us off at the Palms. We’ve booked a more expensive room with a wide balcony overlooking the thick gardens. This is much nicer than our first room as we can leave the door wide open.

On dark we set off for our nightly drinks and dinner. At the farther end of Mitchell Street we set up in the Six Tanks Pub. Mark orders beer while I go for the half priced margaritas. You get what you pay for as they say because they’re undrinkable.

Soon a DJ starts playing terrible music but then, to make it worse, we realise this is a karaoke night and tragic wannabes are out in force. We move to a table on the balcony to try to escape the noise. The singing is atrocious and we leave as soon as we’ve eaten.

Next door is Shennigans where we’d had a drink on our whistle-stop visit to Darwin in 2012 when we’d had a three hour stopover on our way to Bali. A couple more drinks here then a last one at the Darwin Hotel.

Later we have another drink on our balcony while Mark feeds cute possums that pop out from the palm tree overhanging our balcony.

Thursday 13th August, 2020

Today will be our last full day in Darwin as we fly out tomorrow at lunch time. Marion drives in to give us the car for the day then she’ll walk home after visiting Margaret at work in the building just next to our hotel.

We head first for the George Brown Botanic Gardens just north of the CBD. They were established by European settlers in 1886 where plants could be tested for their suitability in the tropics. But in 1974, Cyclone Tracey destroyed most of the plants. Restoration was led by George Brown and so the gardens were renamed after him – get it?

We wander around seeing fountains, shaded walkways, a small waterfall, and especially love the rainforest area. At the lower level we find Eva’s Café which is set up in the old Wesleyan Methodist Church which was moved to the gardens for preservation. A broad deck has been built into the foliage which is where we choose to sit on this lovely warm day.

Next we head out of the city towards the Adelaide River where we’ve booked a Crocodile Jumping cruise for this afternoon.

After about forty kilometres, we turn left off the Stuart Highway onto the Arnhem Highway which, of course, leads to Arnhem Land and Kakadu National Park. We don’t have time this trip but it’ll be something to come back for.

Our first stop is Humpty Doo – gotta love that name! – which is really just a stopover town for people travelling between Darwin and Kakadu. Its main attraction is the Big Croc – one of the ‘big’ things towns use to try to attract tourists. The croc stands thirteen metres high and wears a pair of red boxing gloves. It was inspired by the “Boxing Kangaroo” logo used in Australia’s successful 1983 bid for the America’s Cup. We stop to pose for photos to send to the Dollies.

Another thirty or so kilometres is the Fogg Dam Conservation Reservoir. This is totally uninspiring but we do drive across the dam wall, stopping to check out the wetlands from the bird hides. Been there, seen that, so we hightail back onto the highway and head for the Jumping Crocodile Cruise place about ten kilometres further east.

I’m stressing that we’ll be late but Mark is calm as usual and we get there in time. At the entrance is another ‘big’ crocodile and a rustic café overhung with palms and bougainvillea. A group of us line up for the boat to arrive. This includes four intellectually disabled Aboriginal ladies with their carer workers – reminds me of my job at home.

On the flat-bottomed boat we set off down river while our guide, Davey, tells us what to expect and, more importantly, the safety rules including no arms outside the boat! We don’t go far when someone spies a crocodile coming straight for us. Great excitement especially when Davey holds a piece of meat on the end of a long stick. The croc leaps spectacularly in the air to grab it. Soon another one turns up and then another all jumping high right alongside the edge of the boat. Apparently the crocodiles know the boats and they leave their place of hiding, knowing they’ll be fed. And Davey knows them all individually – they even have pet names.

It’s thrilling to see these scary cold-blooded creatures so up close in their natural habitat. There’s supposed to be about 80,000 salt water crocs roaming around the Northern Territory waterways. Apparently this is a good thing after being declared a protected species in 1971 when they were facing extinction.

Now we make for Darwin and to return the car to Marion and Ross. At the Palms we have a last swim then dress for our last night.

We’d been talking to Marion and she’s given us a few options for dinner. One was Jimmy Shu’s restaurant, Hunaman, but because I’m a total bogan I’d never heard of him and elected to go somewhere on the Waterfront. Later back home, we find Jimmy Shu’s Taste of the Territory on SBS which is one of our favourite shows ever! Yet another reason to come back to Darwin!

At 6.30pm Mark and I walk down to the Waterfront and being early we stop for a drink at an Irish Pub near Chow which is where we’ll be all meeting. Obviously this is an Asian restaurant set up in an outdoor setting. And because Darwin is Covid-free it’s happily vibrant and busy.

We have a fabulous night with Margaret, Marion and Ross talking about our time here then Mark and I say our goodbyes before walking up into the city. The Darwin Festival is in full swing despite Covid19 and we wander in for a look. A big stage has local bands playing and food stall are dotted around. We don’t stay long but move onto the Darwin Hotel. Our local!

Friday 14th August, 2020
Darwin to Brisbane

Our last day in Darwin! Our main plan before we leave for the airport is to visit Margaret’s workplace because Marion has told us about the awesome view from her office. So at 9am we walk around to her building. Margaret meets us at the lift and shows us her office and the conference room. It’s like having a million dollar view of Sydney Harbour – she’s so lucky but we suspect that it’s because she’s doing a great job.

Back at Palms, we pack then order an Uber to the airport. This time in the Top End has been a wonderful surprise. Not only didn’t we expect to be here but we’ve loved both Darwin and our trips into the outback. There’s still much more we didn’t get to see and we know we’ll be back. That is unless we can get to Asia and then forget it!!! Ha!!

Landing in Brisbane we can’t wait to meet up with Kerrie and David. We’ve booked a room in the same cute boutique hotel as them and we’ll be catching up with Todd and Briny tonight.

Great excitement until we’re stopped by police and army to be interviewed. That idiot Queensland Premier Anastasia Palaszczuk still has the border closed between NSW and Queensland. But we’d crossed before she shut it and we’ve been to the Northern Territory for the last 8 days, which has zero Covid cases, so all should be good.

Actually no! A police woman asks “have you been in NSW in the last 14 days?” – yes we have but we crossed into Queensland three days before the border closed – too bad, sunshine – “you have to go into quarantine for 2 weeks!” Wtf?????

After a lot of negotiating we’re allowed to quarantine for 2 nights before catching our flight to Newcastle on Sunday. This means we won’t get to see Kerrie and David at all! For fuuuuck sake!!

Kerrie actually rings right now and thinks I’m having her on when I tell her we have to go into quarantine. She had some great plans for us and can’t believe this bullshit either. Mark tries to reason with the police and while they agree that it’s crazy, they’re just following the rules. They’re all pretty nice especially to a distraught NSW’s lady who I try to comfort as well. But, bloody hell, get a grip woman!

There’s also a group of four guys from Tweed Heads who have spent a week fishing in the Northern Territory. They’d driven their cars to Brisbane Airport and expected to drive straight home tonight. What they’ll have to do now though is fly to Sydney then catch another flight to Ballina and get picked up from there.

What we realise in the end is that there’s nothing we can do, so neither of us get stressed. Actually this is yet another first – never been in quarantine before so we’ll just think of it as an experience.

So after lots of organising there are about twelve of us who are frog marched through the terminal surrounded by police and army. If anyone comes anywhere near us they’re shooed away. Of course, people are staring and we feel like drug runners on our way to gaol – ha. A special bus has been ordered for us which will drive us to the Ibis just over there.

Off we go but speed past the Ibis and keep driving for another ten minutes. We think we must be going to another Ibis but then we literally do two laps of a roundabout and head back towards the airport. I’m nearly wetting myself laughing by now as the driver is obviously lost!

Finally at the Ibis, it takes ages to get allocated rooms – endless paperwork etc. The ‘distraught’ woman thanks me before being led off still crying. Our room is actually not too bad with a large window with a stunning view of the Brisbane CBD far away in the distance. So near but so far!

I have my Bacardi and Mark can order a six pack so this is not a total disaster! We order food, make phone calls, watch tv then get drunk.

Saturday 15th August, 2020

Not a whole lot is happening today. Just more food and more television. When the food arrives someone knocks on the door, dumps the tray in the corridor and runs away like we’ve got the fucking plague which we don’t have!

Sunday 16th August, 2020
Brisbane to Newcastle

Our instructions for this morning are to wait till police come to escort us to the airport but then we get a call to tell us to just walk over ourselves. What the fuckety fuck???!!! None of this shit makes any sense!

In the terminal we just mingle with everyone else spreading our non-existent Covid germs far and wide. Again, what the fuck! On the plane we do wear masks and I’m sitting next to a very friendly young Scottish guy who announces “we’ll be best friends by the end of this flight!” He never draws breath the whole trip.

At Newcastle Airport there aren’t any taxis and no Ubers in the area so we wait for a bus which will be heaps cheaper anyway. Lauren picks us up from the Interchange and we’re home to our three darling girls.

Another great trip!

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Kenya 2018


Saturday 27th January, 2018

Newcastle to Sydney

We catch the 2pm train from Hamilton Station to Sydney where Jillian meets us at Central Station. She walks us to the new apartment she and Michael are renting in Chippendale. We all walk to the Everleigh Hotel in Darlinghurst sitting on the pavement for food and drinks catching up with our lovely mates. Home about 9.30pm.

Sunday 28th January, 2018

Sydney to Johannesburg (South Africa)

Up at 7am to shower and pack before walking over to Central to catch a train to the international airport. At check-in we don’t have any luck getting window or aisle seats so we’ll just have to sit up the whole way. Immigration is fast with the new Smart Gates then we buy duty free Bacardi before experiencing our first sushi train for lunch.

We board our Qantas flight at 11am to find that we’re in the middle section with a spare seat between us and a friendly South African/Indian lady. She tells me that she was hoping to sit near ‘someone who smile’. Sweet! We chat for hours. She has been visiting her son in Sydney for three months and has four children, eleven grandchildren and two great grandchildren.

Mark is happy to watch the whole Season 7 of Game of Thrones while I watch Goodbye Christopher Robin, Victoria and Abdul and the whole season of Big Little Lies – not like we don’t have the time. The food is good and I take a Temazapan to try to get some sleep – only half an hour out of the entire fourteen hour flight. I look a fucking wreck!

At 4.30pm we land at Johannesburg’s O.R. Tambo International Airport in South Africa. There are long lines at immigration but baggage pick-up is quick. We’re not actually staying in Johannesburg tonight but our flight to Rwanda isn’t till 3am tomorrow morning which means we need to be back here at midnight.  Instead of hanging out in the airport, Mark looks up for somewhere cheap nearby where we can crash out for a few hours.

In minutes we’re off to the Aero Guest Lodge in Kempton Park, just a five minute drive. Our black driver drops us down a dusty side street where only coloured families only are walking around. It’s obviously a poor area but we like the feel of it anyway. Of course, like everywhere in Johannesburg, the guesthouse is protected behind tall metal gates where we need to use the intercom to get inside.

The nice girl on reception shows us around – a pool and a dining room but we’re too tired to do anything but fall into bed. Our room is just off the jungly garden – we have a tv, our own big bathroom and comfy beds. It’s also very quiet so for AUD$90 it’s worth it. I have a shower then we both sleep from 6.30pm until 11.30pm when we’re woken by the alarm.

Monday 29th January, 2018

Johannesburg to Kigali (Rwanda) to Nairobi (Kenya)

Mark has a shower then we meet the airport shuttle outside. At Terminal B we hang out in the coffee lounge for hot chocolate, coffee plus bacon and egg croissants. We text Lauren as Abi is going back to school today and Elkie back to preschool tomorrow.

At 3am we take off on Rwandair for the four hour trip to Kigali, Rwanda’s capital. We couldn’t get a direct flight to Nairobi, needing to have a stop-over in Kigali on the way. Originally this trip was to be Rwanda and Uganda to see the gorillas but after endless research we realized we’d have to do a tour which doesn’t fit in with our dates. We decided to do Kenya this trip and do Uganda and Rwanda in a year or so.

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The Joburg/Kigali flight is a breeze with three seats each so we both manage to sleep for a couple of hours. Coming into land at misty Kigali International Airport, is quite an experience with the airport and runway seemingly built on top of a hill with its head chopped off creating a plateau overlooking the city. The terminal is small as we expected but we amuse ourselves people-watching for the one and a half hour layover.

At 8.30am we’re off in the air again with three seats each again meaning we both have a window seat for great views of Lake Victoria dotted with lots of small islands and the impressive Mount Kilimanjaro sticking up through the clouds.

I cry for Angie – just comes out of the blue sometimes.

Breakfast is croissants, yoghurt, tea and juice then we read a magazine article about Mali – add it to the list! The captain tells us to put our clocks forward one hour before we land in sunny Nairobi at 11am at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. Mark withdraws enough cash to last us the next few days – 1AUD = 67 Kenyan Shillings.

So this is what I’ve learnt. Nairobi is Kenya’s capital situated in the south-central part of the country, on the eastern edge of the Rift Valley, 1661 metres above the sea level.

The city originated in the late 1890s as a colonial railway settlement then in 1905 it became the capital of the British East Africa Protectorate establishing itself as a major trading centre.

Today Nairobi is the home to 4.5 million people and they all seem to be on the road from the airport today. Only eighteen kilometres from the CBD, it takes nearly an hour and a half to reach our guesthouse through the horrendous traffic jams. This is Manyatta Backpackers which we love on sight although it’s hidden by a tall fence and gates – we are in Nairobbery, after all!

Even though it’s almost in the heart of the city, it has a rural feel with a tangled garden, crowing roosters and we can see chickens running around outside our window. Our $50 AUD double room is basic to say the least and the shared bathroom is a bit dodgy but we love it even more. The website boasts ‘a communal dining and living area’ with a fireplace, restaurant and bar located outside’. A bit of a stretch – ha – but the friendly Mum and her daughter at the desk just add to the appeal. When we ask for a key, the Mum has to rifle through all the drawers to find one.

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They do manage to book us a safari to the Maasai Mara for tomorrow – three days and two nights for $920AUD for the two of us. This is a budget deal and about what we expected to pay.

After showers and Mark washing some clothes, we ring a taxi even though I feel very jet-lagged and a cold coming on. Not going to miss out on anything and, anyway, I’m sure alcohol will help!

Our driver is Maxwell, a friendly local who takes us to a shopping centre as Mark wants to buy some boots. At the entrance, security guards with rifles look inside the car and the boot and even the glove-box. And we have to be body searched and our small packs scanned before entering the main entrance – so lucky not to have to put up with this shit at home. Anyway Mark buys his boots for $24 then a SIM card as we want to be able to book things ahead.

Even though we’re not far from the CBD, it’s another hour of nightmare traffic and choking fumes and me feeling even sicker. Finally back in the city, Maxwell drives us to the Sarova Stanley. This historical five star hotel was built in 1902 and still retains its gorgeous heritage character. We always seek out these colonial hotels – for the bar rather than the food – can’t afford to stay but love to hang out in luxury for a while.

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We make our way to the first floor Exchange Bar so-called because it was originally the site of Nairobi’s first Stock Exchange. With a polished dark wood bar, oriental carpets, old leather couches and luxurious drapes it’s a haven from the chaos outside. Grace introduces herself as our waitress – we order chicken drumsticks and a cheese platter – all beautifully presented and tastes awesome. But best is two margaritas for me and two Tusker beers for Mark. And, yes, I’m feeling one hundred percent better already!

Downstairs we visit the Thorn Tree Café. The original thorn-tree noticeboard in the courtyard inspired Lonely Planet’s online Thorn Tree travel forum so I leave a note – ‘Thanks for the memories, Lonely Planet’. We never travel without one.

Now it’s time to head back to Manyatta. Maxwell charges us $36 and we think he’s ripping us off. But then we ask him where he lives, ‘one hundred kilometres away’. So ‘where do you sleep?’ He says it’s in the car ‘but I lucky today. I can go home because I have you’. Oh shit, now we feel like total assholes and give him $40.


At Manyatta, we sit around the fire pit which one of the staff has set alight. We order hot chips from the open-sided little kitchen as we’re not too hungry. The girls in the kitchen take forever – God love them.

Drink Bacardi and beer then bed at 8.30pm.

Tuesday 30th January, 2018

Nairobi to Maasai Mara

Both have a good sleep but woken by the roosters at 5.30am then the call to prayer soon after. After a snuggle and showers we order pancakes for breakfast sitting outside again.


The tour company sends a van to pick us up about seven o’clock. The streets today are completely different. With barely any traffic we pass trucks of soldiers carrying rifles, police everywhere and a noisy demonstration of young men. We ask our young driver and his mate what’s happening? They try to avoid answering so we get the impression they’re too scared to say anything against the government or army or whoever is behind it all.

The city centre is almost deserted and we’re finally told that people have been warned to stay away from the inner city today as it could be too dangerous. So why are we here??

At a travel agent we wait half an hour for other passengers to arrive. So far we have an Asian girl called Leela and Rizzy, a friendly Turkish man. At another stop we pick up a handsome Italian couple who introduce themselves as Francesca and Eduado. Everyone seems really fun so we’re looking forward to a nice time with these people.

The only downside is our new driver called Jackson who is already giving off bad vibes. After an hour we stop at a lookout with fabulous views of the Great Rift Valley stretching forever into the distance. Down there somewhere is the Maasai Mara where we’ll be staying for the next two nights. We all take photos then drink tea in one of the little basic tea houses next to the market stalls.


Here we also pick up two more people – a shy young Japanese couple called Kwan and Li. Poor Li suddenly faints for some reason but she soon seems to be okay. Meanwhile we’re all ready to leave but Jackson is having a lovely time hanging out with other drivers and gives us filthy looks when we ask if we can go now.


Heading down into the Valley, the red soil must be very fertile – lots of greenery, bougainvillea, green houses for flowers and corn fields. We pass through small towns where women sell watermelons from the side of the road then tea pickers in the many tea plantations. Cows, donkeys and goats are a common sight but we’re especially excited to see our first real Maasai herding cows towards a large waterhole. More Maasai are herding goats as we head up out of the Valley.

Through lots of little dusty towns we eventually arrive in Narok Town, 1800 metres above sea level. It’s the major centre of commerce in Narok district with a population of around 40,000 people, mostly Maasai. It’s also the last major town before the Maasai Mara – we’re getting close!

But first we have a toilet and lunch stop at a roadside café. This is a buffet lunch paid for as part of the tour – rice, chicken, vegetables and dosa. While I just stick to soda water, Francesca buys beers for everyone to share – love this crew! Mark has another beer before we leave – why not!

On the road again, Jackson continues to spend the whole time either on the phone or on the CB radio to his friends. He’s so fake, pretending he likes us but he’s fooling no-one.

Half an hour later we turn off the paved road of highway B3 onto a bumpy dusty road leading towards the Maasai Mara Reserve. But things only get worse the closer we get to the Park. Jackson says, ‘everybody ready for a Mara massage?’ The road becomes a rutted mess as we bounce from one pothole to the next. Of course, Jackson is driving like a maniac so we ask him to slow down! And guess what, he’s pissed off and deliberately slows down to a snail’s pace – ass-wipe!  Everyone is pulling faces at him behind his back – ha!

Despite the horrible Jackson and the horrible road, the one and a half hour drive is fabulous as we pass Maasai herding goats, sheep and cows and even lots of wild life – wildebeest, giraffe, zebra, warthog and gazelle.

Relieved at last to reach our camp for tonight – the Miti Mingi Eco Camp which is located just five hundred metres from the Ololaimutiek Maasai Mara entrance gate. There seems to be a few other camps nearby and also a real Maasai village. We’re welcomed by Regina a jolly local lady who shows us our tents. These are permanently erected army green canvas types nestled under a canopy of indigenous trees creating a cool retreat from the heat of the plains.

Inside we have a painted cement floor, two single timber beds and a curtained off bathroom at the back. The bathroom is far from luxury with a cracked cement floor and a shower that’s supposed to be hot but isn’t. Regina has told us that lights are only available between 5.30am and 7.30am and in the afternoon between 6 and 8 – no electricity outlets in the tents so we’ll need to charge our phones etc at the dining hut.


We’re given half an hour to settle in then we all meet Jackson in the carpark at 4.30pm for our afternoon safari. With the park entrance only five minutes away, we’re soon inside the Maasai Mara seeing zebra, gazelle, wildebeest, cheetahs, giraffes and, most exciting, lions!  Some are just lying around and others are eating a buffalo. And we’ve still got all day tomorrow!

Returning to the Camp at 6.30pm, we drive past groups of Maasai men wearing their traditional red checkered cloths wrapped around them and carrying long wooden sticks. We meet the crew for dinner in the dining hut but I can’t eat anything much – just prefer to have watermelon and pineapple.


Later Mark and I find a table next to an open fire outside for a couple of drinks. We’re soon joined by Francesca, Eduado, Leela and Rizzy. We knew these people would be fun and they are – a good night sitting under the stars.

Finally chased inside at 9.30pm by the mozzies.

Wednesday 31st January, 2018

Maasai Mara

Up at 6am ready for our big day in the Maasai Mara. Breakfast is toast, baked beans, sausage, tea and coffee then we all meet Jackson at 6.30am.

‘We are team and I am the leader’ – we all just look at each other thinking wtf?  – ‘Ask me anything you want’ then ‘You all have water’ (a statement not a question).

We set off with Rizzy in the front seat next to Jackson. Soon Leela pipes up from the back, ‘What happened to the one litre of water we’re all supposed to get according to the itinerary?’ Jackson screams to a halt and turns to face Leela giving her death stares. ‘I tell you to bring water – here take mine!’ as he shoves a bottle at her. She’s totally unfazed and says ‘I have water. That was not my question.’ We love this brave little girl standing up to this pig. But now he’s even more pissed off especially when poor Rizzy tries to calm him down by saying ‘Sometimes you say things that upset people’. Jackson’s eyes nearly bulge out of his head, ‘Me? me? I am good! I am good!’ he yells. But then comes the biggy, ‘I can ruin your safari!’ Oh my fucking God, this man is a lunatic!

The rest of us are sitting here like stunned mullets but realise that this prick really could ruin it for us so we all try to brush it off and make out we’re all friends again – not! Like yesterday, we all pull faces behind his back – ha.

Setting off again sweet Rizzy tries to engage him in conversation by asking him questions but Jackson completely ignores him. On one of Jackson’s many cigarette breaks, Rizzy cracks everyone up when he says in his broken English, ’this guy, I give him zero!’

Soon the sun rises over the mountains and we can see how very lovely it is here. A seemingly endless green plain stretches towards far rolling hills. The landscape is more appealing than Kruger National Park that we visited in August 2007. It’s much greener here but maybe it’s just the different season.


It’s thrilling to suddenly see three lions hunting a gazelle. They manage to trap one by forming a circle but it manages to escape – weirdly we were rooting for the lions. Nearby is a pride of lions and even some little bubbas wrestling – cute!

Of course, the goal of all safaris in these big game parks is to seek out the Big Five – elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo and rhino. So far we’ve seen buffalo, hundreds of them, and lions but now we see two rhino on the side of a hill. We drive closer for a better look.

Other trucks, lots of other trucks, are in the Reserve as well but because the Mara covers over one and a half thousand square kilometres, we’re not actually on top of each other. All the drivers carry CB radios so they tell each other if they spot something good. Jackson spends all his time on the radio talking to his mates mainly we think so he doesn’t have to talk to us. And he never tells us anything unless we specifically ask.

Whenever we come across a truck he stops to chat to the other driver for ages. One van is carrying a group of tourists who are all wrapped in Maasai blankets. Mark says, ‘looks like someone’s been to the gift shop’ – ha ha.

In the meantime, we see two gazelle fighting by locking horns while a group nearby are running around like maniacs – must be teenagers. Later we see ostriches on the side of the road then black and red necked Ground Thorn Bills as big as vultures.

Someone spots two big baboons who scarper up into a giant tree which sets off hundreds of them who drop down off the branches and make a run for it into a gully apparently to hide from us. Little heads keep popping up to check us out. This should be cute, but baboons are horrid things always screeching like they are right now.

Later we come across a herd of elephants with cute babies sticking close to their mums. Then we find three lions lounging around on a small rise. We drive up close to them but they still don’t move. Seeing lions is what we hoped we’d see here as we only saw one from a distance on our Kruger safari.


Suddenly Jackson gets a call and off we fly in the opposite direction. In the distance are about twenty or so other trucks parked close together. Joining the crowd we watch five cheetahs walking stealthily in the long grass. We soon see that they’re heading straight for a small herd of gazelle and then the chase is on – thrilling!

About 1pm we stop to check out a pile of stones that represent the Kenya/Tanzania border then we all do wee wees in the bushes – no toilets in the Mara. From here we drive to a hippo pool on a bend of the Mara River. John, dressed in camouflage and carrying a very big gun, introduces himself as one of the park rangers. He tells us that the the hippopotamus is apparently the world’s deadliest large land mammal, that kill about five hundred people every year. They submerge themselves in the river water all day then come out to look for food at night. John said that they’ll kill you – bite you with their very big teeth – if you get between them and the water because that’s where they feel safe.


Right now in the river are families of them, each group separated by about thirty metres. John says that the group nearest the carpark are accustomed to tourists but the further the group gets from here, the more aggressive they are.

So, with all this scary talk about hippos why are we now going for a walk through the bush? We are being accompanied by a couple of other rangers with rifles but I just hope they’re a good shot because apparently hippos can run really fast despite being big fatty boombas!

At a pretty spot under shady trees we come across Jackson who has spread out blankets on the grass. He hands us each a lunch bag provided by the Camp – apples, poppas, a chicken leg and a sandwich. While Jackson sits back in the truck and ignores us, Eduado juggles the apples. He’s actually a circus performer and performs all over the world!

Now Jackson gets another call that someone has spotted a leopard – pun, get it, leopards have spots!! We find it curled up in a tall tree so, yes, we’ve seen the Big Five once again – lion, rhino, elephant, buffalo and, the hardest to find, a leopard!


On the way back to Camp we see a family of warthogs with lots of cute little ones, a family of giraffes and three rhino at the top of a hill. Jackson drives off-road to get closer and tells us he’d be in big trouble if a ranger saw him. Is he actually being nice to us?? Don’t believe it!


At Miti Mingi, Mark and I have a cup of tea in our tent then meet the group at 4.30pm for our visit to the Maasai village next door. Our guide is Moses, a proud Maasai man who leads us over to a grassy area just outside the boma. This is a group of huts surrounded by a circular fence of thick, thorny bushes to keep out the wild animals.

Here we meet a group of about fifteen Maasai men carrying wooden staffs and wearing a sort of cotton tunic under a mix of striped or checked wraps all in different shades of red. The men also have long knives in sheaths hanging from a cord around their waists. Moses introduces us to Alan, the chief’s son. Alan will become chief when his seventy-five year old father kicks the bucket. He’s a gentle soul who explains the adamu or jumping dance which the Maasai are famous for.


The men gather in a line away from the crowd. They make loud grunting throaty noises while pounding their feet. They move forward not as fifteen men, but as one. There are no drums, only their voices as instruments. They move in a steady rhythm – up, bend, forward. Mark, Kwan, Eduado and Rizzy are all good sports being wrapped in Maasai cloths and joining the men in the dance.

Now the men take it in turns to jump straight up, each time higher than before. Apparently the higher each warrior jumps, the less bride price that he has to pay when he finds a girl to marry – this is usually about ten cows. Cattle play a big role in Maasai lives – the more cattle, the wealthier the warrior and the more wives he can buy. Our guys try really hard but can’t match the height of the warriors.


Seeing this Maasai jumping dance is a bucket list thing – it really has lived up to our expectations. And these people are really sweet. Alan takes us into the boma where some of the men show us how to make fire with a hard stick twirled on top of soft wood. Mark has a go, too.

Alan tells us that about two hundred people live here and that the houses are all built by the women. They use sticks, straw, mud and cow dung so they really are very primitive. He takes Mark and me into a tiny house where two adults and four children live in the most basic conditions imaginable. There are two bedrooms no bigger than a cupboard and a fire pit dug into the dirt in another miniscule space which is the kitchen.

It’s so dark inside we can hardly see until our eyes adjust. The hut has only one tiny window so the mosquitos don’t invade them at night. Besides these three rooms there is another ‘guest’ room (another cupboard) where we could stay the night. We really, really should do this but it looks flea ridden (sorry, judgemental) and anyway underneath is where the family will bring in the baby animals for the night. They need to do this so predators won’t kill them – mainly those horrible baboons.

A little boy comes home from school and we give him whatever we can find in our packs – lollies, pens and perfume for his Mum. Outside the other kids are playing in the red dirt then Alan takes us behind the hut to sell us crappy trinkets – we pay $70 and think of it as a donation. We find out later that everyone else did the same thing – ha ha.

Now we find the village ladies sitting outside the boma with more stuff to sell laid out on the grass – we buy more things we don’t want.

At our Camp, Mark has a shower but I don’t because it’s cold water only. We read, doze then meet the others at the dining hut at 7.30pm. Like last night we move outside to sit around the fire and have a great time bagging out Jackson. We all hate him with a passion!

Thursday 1st February, 2018

 Maasai Mara to Nairobi

Today we’ll be heading back to Nairobi but first we’re doing a nature walk with Moses. Mark and I have a snuggle then breakfast at six o’clock. We all meet Moses at 6.30am and set off on foot. The morning is beautiful with clear skies – the sun rising on our right and the moon going down on our left.

Moses shows us termite mounds that will eventually eat the village houses which means they have to move every three years. I stop to talk to another warrior who has huge holes in his ear lobes, then he twists the lobe up and over the top of his ear – gross!!!

Most of the men have their ears punctured like this but if you go to school it’s forbidden. We also come across a plaque for some poor man from Cambridge University who in 2000 came out of the Camp to take a photo of an elephant. It wasn’t happy and gored the guy to death.

Moses explains what all the wild plants are used for then we follow him down into a leafy gully where a small stream is the only source of fresh water for the village. After a group photo we head back to Camp. This group has been a lovely surprise and really made this little trip so much better – won’t mention Jackson.

Back at Miti Mingi we pack and set off at 8.45am. We pass lots of Maasai men herding goats and cows on this long bumpy ride. In one small village Jackson turns off the main road to detour along narrow dirt lanes behind local houses. He tells us that he’s hiding from the police who are after him for going off-road in the Park yesterday. He’s obviously made this up to make himself look like a hero – wanker!


Another small town is having a cattle market on today and herds are being led towards it from both directions. Soon Jackson informs us that we’re having a toilet stop which is really just an excuse for him to have a fag. A tree just near our van is full of little yellow birds who have built perfectly cylindrical nests – the cutest thing! Pretty blue birds are here as well so we feed them our potato chips.

Later we stop again for lunch but I can’t eat anything. We ring Lauren as we haven’t had wifi for the last two days – 9pm at home. Kwan and Li go off with another driver as they’re not going back to Nairobi today. Hours later on the outskirts of the city we drop off Leela, Francesca and Eduado.

We’ve all noticed that Jackson has been trying to be friendly today – all gushy smiles and teeth. And we know why – he wants a tip! Kwan and Li had given him the equivalent of $2 – he was so disgusted that he refused to take it. We don’t know how much Eduado and Francesca paid but we know that Leela only gave him $5 – more disgust and he winges about it all the way into the city. We get out with Rizzy and hand over $25 for being good at finding animals and not for being an asshole! Goodbye and good riddance!

We decide to stay at the same hotel as Rizzy – $50 AUD a night right in the middle of everything. After hot showers we meet Rizzy at the hotel bar at 5.30pm where we sit out on the verandah overlooking a nice park. We have wifi again so Mark books a train for Mombasa on Saturday. We would have preferred to go tomorrow but the website says no seats available either on the morning or afternoon train. I should have booked days ago!

Never mind we’ll do some sort of day tour with Rizzy tomorrow. The three of us walk around to a Turkish restaurant (he’s Turkish remember) where we all order kebabs and then free drinks come out – hot and coloured either red, orange or green and all very sweet.

Rizzy decides to go for a walk which is good as Mark and I would prefer to be on our own now. Our plan is to find Fairmont The Norfolk for cocktails so Mark checks out the map. I’m not really sure we should be walking around here in the dark but we get there eventually. The hotel is gorgeous and we drink caipirinhas and margaritas, probably one too many. A taxi home to bed at 10pm. There seems to be more mosquitos here in our hotel room than in our tent in the Maasai Mara!


Friday 2nd February, 2018

Nairobi to Mombasa

I wake at 5.30am to the sound of mozzies buzzing around our heads. Mark is up at 7.15am to shower then we meet Rizzy for a buffet breakfast at eight o’clock. This is great – French toast, bacon, sausages, baked beans, juice plus tea and coffee. We ring home to Lauren and our dollies. Abi is happy to be in the same class as her boyfriend Ollie – ‘that handsome devil’, she says! Elkie tells us a long story about pweschool and cockroaches that we can’t quite follow and, thankfully, Lauren sounds rested.

At 8.30am we check out then meet Rizzy outside with our driver for the day, Raphel. We’re paying $70 to have Raphel drive us to the main tourist sites on the outskirts of Nairobi – a good deal.

The first thing we need to do is to confirm our train tickets for the Indian Ocean port city of Mombasa tomorrow. Raphel drives us to a shopping centre to look for a travel agent. As before, we have to go through strict security but then realise there isn’t a travel agent here anyway. Rizzy and I wander off to look at the shops while Mark and Raphel get on their mobiles to pay for the train tickets – it’s totally confusing! We end up buying two more train tickets just to make sure we can go tomorrow – Mark gives Raphel a generous tip for helping us.

All done, or so we think, but anyway now we can go ahead with our day trip around Nairobi. First on the agenda is the Giraffe House. Heavy traffic in the city slows us down until forty-five minutes later we reach the lovely leafy suburb of Karen – obviously named after Karen Blixen – more about this awesome woman soon.

This area is about gorgeous old houses behind tall vine-covered walls and the home of the very expensive Giraffe Manor. This is a plush guesthouse where the endangered Rothschild’s giraffes roam free and stick their heads into the dining room while you have your meals. Another bucket list thing but at $700 a night it won’t be happening for us – waaaay too expensive!


But what we can do is visit the Giraffe Centre to check out the Rothschild’s giraffes for only $10 each. This is a lovely leafy area with an outdoor café and gift shop plus a raised platform where we can feed the giraffes at eye level. But the best bit is when we stick a pellet in between our front teeth and the young ones pick it straight from our mouths.

Here we see a glamorous woman all decked out in safari clothes – white blouse, khaki skirt, white safari hat and tan leather shoes – ha ha! She must have a stylist!

From here it’s only a fifteen minute drive to Karen Blixen Museum. Situated at the foot of the Ngong Hills, this is the former home of the famous Out of Africa author Karen Blixen, also known by her pen name, Isak Dinesen. She lived in the house from 1917 to 1931, where she ran a coffee plantation. The house is a bungalow-style colonial farmhouse in vast leafy grounds. We pay $12 each for a guide, Sharon, to show us around and explain the history of the house. We try to tell her that we’re in a hurry but it doesn’t seem to register as she slowly explains the Karen Blixen story.


Back in the car we’re now off to the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. This is an orphan-elephant rescue and rehabilitation program set up by Daphne Sheldrick in 1977 in memory of her late husband David who was a former warden at Tsavo East National Park. The centre cares for young abandoned elephants and rhinos and works to release them back into the wild. Hundreds of people are here all crowded around an enclosure where a dozen or so baby elephants are rolling around in muddy ponds.


More ‘on safari’ tourists are here as well including the woman from the Giraffe Centre. One man is resplendent in a pith helmet and long khaki socks. They must be Europeans as no self-respecting Aussie would bother.

Meanwhile, we’re given a long winded explanation about the elephants’ rehabilitation then get bored and leave.

Now we’re having some doubts about the train situation to Mombasa and ask Raphel to drive us to the train station. This was originally in the centre of Nairobi where you would expect it to be and the train to Mombasa was romantically called the Lunatic Express. But tragically for us this was replaced by a brand spanking new Chinese train called the Madaraka Express just a few months ago. The Lunatic Express was an overnight train taking over twelve hours to get to Mombasa while this new Chinese train only takes five hours. Obviously Mark and I are devastated to have missed out on the old train which would have been an awesome experience.

But for now we have to either fly to Mombasa, get a bus or get the train. We’ve opted for the train but the new station is way out of the city in an ugly industrial area out past the airport. We finally arrive at a huuge modern monstrocity amongst weedy fields and light industries. Hate it on sight!!

Even worse is that to just get in to the station to check out if there are any seats for today, we have to go through the weirdest security. In a shed we have to place our day packs in a row then stand opposite while station security paces up and down in front of us and sniffer dogs check our bags and then us. The bags then still have to go through a scanner and then we’re body searched. This is to get on a train, not a bloody airport!

Inside we’re told that, despite the website info, that we can actually buy first class tickets for this afternoon at only $30 each. Racing back out to the car we say goodbye to Raphel and our lovely new friend Rizzy. He’s flying back to England tomorrow where he’s been living for the last few years.

Now we grab our big backpacks and go through the whole sniffer dog/xray thing. The security people pull out our duty free Bacardi – ‘Is alcohol?’ – yes – ‘you cannot take alcohol on train’ – ok then it’s not alcohol, it’s water – ‘but you say alcohol’. They make a phone call and a new security guy arrives letting us take on our unopened bottle but then confiscates the opened one. Again this is to get on a train! Chinese rules, not Kenyan!

Mark lines up for a refund of our second class tickets that we’d bought this morning. Funny how huge and ultra-modern this train station is, but they can’t get their bloody online booking right!! And even more weird is that there isn’t anywhere to buy food and drinks. Over it – wish we’d just caught a flight.

First Class boards first but we’re held up having another argument when they put our bags through yet another x-ray machine and try to take our unopened bottle of Bacardi. They make a call to another guy who also wants to confiscate it until the original guy comes to our rescue and tells them we can keep it.

The platform rigmarole is a bit of a joke with female Chinese guards standing to attention as we board the train. On board is very clean and totally boring/featureless/soulless. Anyway we move to the dining car after an hour but can’t stomach any of the hideous food. We end up with potato chips, juice and Tusker Light for Mark.

At one stage, a recorded announcement tells us tell that we’re entering Tsavo National Park where we will see elephants, zebras, and giraffes – don’t see any! The scenery is generally forgettable but the five hours passes quick enough.

Darkness has fallen by the time we reach Mombasa about 7.15pm at another huuuuge train station. The train holds one and a half thousand people who are all trying to get into the city. Outside is very dark and the whole place has a bizarre, unreal feel about it. Passengers pile into buses and waiting cars while we’re left almost on our own until a guy in a car (a taxi he tells us) says he can drive us into the city.

His name is Joel and tells us ‘traffic impossible’. This is because the whole way in is convoys of trucks keeping traffic to almost a stand-still. It takes an hour of traffic jams, pollution, noisy trucks and police stopping people for nothing but to collect bribes.

So relieved to arrive in the city which is comparatively quiet. The first thing we see are the famous giant Mombasa elephant tusks crossing Moi Avenue. The tusks were built for the visit  of Queen Elizabeth in 1952. It’s hard not to think of McDonalds.

Joel drops us at the New Palm Tree Hotel on Nkrumah Road (old Fort Jesus road) in Old Town Mombasa. Inside the bland exterior is a cavernous busy space with a pizza oven and cake stand on one side and the hotel desk on the other. A lovely old timber staircase with fat carved posts leads to the next floor where the rooms are set around an inner courtyard. We’re pleased with our $40 room with air-con, television and hot water in the bathroom.


It’s time to eat so we head down to the Al-Yosra Restaurant next to the main foyer. The hotel is Muslim run so no alcohol and all food halal. We order one chicken and mushroom pizza and a coke but end up with two chicken only pizzas and a water. What?  We give away one of the pizzas to a large local family then head straight for bed at 9.30pm. Sooo tired!

Saturday 3rd February, 2018


After a good sleep we have showers at 7.30am then breakfast is buffet style in the first floor courtyard – juice, tea and coffee while one of the staff cooks us eggs and sausages. Most guests are Muslim families with all the ladies and little girls wearing head scarves. There’s a nice old-world colonial feel with shuttered doors to all the rooms and lots of potted palms around.

Despite really liking it here, we plan to walk around to look for a different guesthouse for tonight – always like to experience different places to stay. But after checking out the area on foot we decide to get a tuktuk to the heart of the Old City. Our driver is Moses, a friendly local man who drives us to the only hotel in the old part of town but it’s just too dark and dingy.


We really like the Old City, though, with its narrow streets, Arab houses and shops with carved doors. Moses takes us to the elephant tusks to take photos and then to check out the Lotus Hotel. Yes – we love it and book in for the night. Moses drives us back to the New Palm to pick up our bags then on to Lotus to book in.


After a quick rest we’re up at 11.30am to walk to Fort Jesus which is the most popular tourist spot in Mombasa. But first we want to have lunch and run into Moses just near the Fort. We tell him we’re going to Rozina Restaurant first but apparently it closed down three years ago, obviously we’re using an old Lonely Planet – so Moses takes us to Fodorhani Restaurant on the water. At first we sit on the lower level but it smells like a toilet so we move to the top deck. Here the view is spectacular – clear torquoise waters at the entrance to the Indian Ocean and a lovely breeze to cool us down. We order prawns and fish in coconut sauce with rice.


From here we walk with Moses to Jesus Fort which was built by the Portuguese in 1596 and today is a UNESCO World Heritage site. After the Portuguese left it was used by the Arabs as torture rooms and prison cells where slaves were kept before being shipped away – awful but we want to see it all. Moses acts as our guide because he’s probably brought tourists here hundreds of times. He shows us canons, a whale skeleton, Portuguese toilets, look-out towers and steps that lead down to the water where the Portuguese brought in supplies but later where the Arabs took the slaves out to the boats.


Leaving Fort Jesus we walk down to the water to see wooden boats from Tanzania then through the narrow alleyways of the Old City where men wear long white robes and white kufi caps. Women are in the full black burqua with only slits for their eyes – so interesting!


Other narrow streets wind between a mix of Portuguese and Swahili architecture while robed men pull wooden carts piled high with fruit, men and women sew on old treddle sewing machines right on the street and curbside stalls sell fruit and vegetables. Wooden balconies hang over the street some with flowering vines, arched doorways and heavy carved doors reminding us of Stonetown in Zanzibar.


At the clothes market we watch people using sewing machines then we buy pineapples for the three of us – best we’ve ever tasted! At the spice market we buy a bag of passionfruit for $2 then ask Moses to take us to a bottle shop. Yes I need more Bacardi after having most of it confiscated on the train! And amazingly we find it!

Back at the Lotus we shower then sleep till 6.30pm, when we head downstairs for a drink at the bar. From here we tuktuk to Tarboosh Café that I’d seen on a traveller’s blog. This is a very local, busy and very interesting place – love it! We sit outside under fairy lights with metal tables and plastic chairs. Mark has a beef curry and chips while I order a shish-kebab sort of thing plus a passionfruit juice. I also have to embarrassingly kabumbah in the bathroom.


From here we catch another tuktuk to the Casablanca Club over near the Tusks. This is a big, open-air place pumping out very loud doof doof music. A young woman is dancing by herself and all the other ladies are obviously prostitutes.

After one drink each, too loud, we meet a young woman outside who says ‘where you go madam. I did not dance with you’. What???

Back at Lotus we head straight for the bar where a guy is smoking his head off so we move to the dining area.

Bed at 9.30pm.

Sunday 4th February, 2018

Mombasa to Kilifi

Like last night I’m still shitting but I’m dosing myself up on Imodean and trying to ignore it. After showers and a snuggle, we have breakfast downstairs – juice, tea, coffee, sausage, bacon and eggs.

After packing we catch a tuktuk to the bus station as we plan to head up the coast to the coastal town of Kilifi. At the bus station we’re confronted with desperate touts vying for us to get on their bus. ‘Express Malindi’ and ‘we leaving now’. We head straight for the bus where a man with food all around his mouth sell us tickets at $1.50 each. As Mark throws our big packs underneath, we ask when will we be leaving – ‘in few minutes’ – ‘but the bus isn’t full’ (we know only too well the transport system in these countries, only leave when full to bursting) – ‘we go anyway’ – big fib!

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At least the bustle outside keeps us amused while we wait. Tall spreading trees shade makeshift kitchens and old wooden benches where people sit to eat. Other stalls sell drinks and local food while tuktuks buzz in and out the gate. Most ladies are wearing head scarves and wrap around sarongs while some wear the full burkas.

Half an hour later we’re still sitting on the bus and I know that even if we miss it I have to get off to look for a toilet. I’m frantic to find it and a nice man shows me the way.

This is not something I’m looking forward to as I know, without even seeing it, the toilet will be a horror chamber. And it is – a filthy squat type with a poo in the bottom! No choice but to go and ahh the relief. After much hand washing, I’m back on the bus swallowing more Imodean. Can you overdose on Imodean? The pains and urges keep coming in waves as we drive north up the coast.

We cross a wide, lazy river then pass corn fields, cows and goats grazing on the side of the road. The vegetation is lush – palms, giant flowering bougainvillea and coconut trees. Markets are busy in every village where ladies sell vegetables and fruit laid out on the ground on small squares of canvas – nearby is the ever present pile of rubbish.

Roadside villages are made from scraps of wood and all with rusty corrugated iron roofs. Village people come and go either on foot or on motorbikes, usually with the driver plus two more on the back.

People just flag down the bus any old where then unhurriedly climb aboard while I’m sweating it out trying not to poop. Going over road humps is the worst.

We pass signs to other beaches like Watamu and Nyali but they’re a bit close to Mombasa and so maybe a bit touristy. That’s why we didn’t head down to Diani Beach which is the most popular beach in Kenya probably because of its close proximity to Mombasa.

For kilometre after kilometre we drive past plantations of sisal as far into the distance as we can see. Sisal looks like a rosette of sword-shaped leaves only about a metre tall and is used to make rope and twine. There must be a huge market for it somewhere.

After a few hours we arrive in Kilifi which lies on Kilifi Creek at the estuary of the Goshi River. We’re dumped at the bus stop in town then desperately (me)
ask about a toilet – ‘come this way mumma’ a friendly guy beckons. The toilet here is worse than the one in Mombasa and I almost can’t go in there but I’ve no choice. Oh and no water here to wash my hands. Tip – never use a toilet at a Kenyan bus station!

Catching a tuktuk out of town, we’re headed for the Distant Relatives Backpackers – awesome name and the photos looked good on The road out here is unpaved dirt and rocks, very bumpy so more urges to poop. Oh God, I’m frantic again but at least out here I could make a dash for the bushes.


After ten minutes passing thatched villages we arrive at the entrance and we bounce into the dirt carpark. The path to the reception is just sand and tiny rocks that clog up the wheels on our backpacks so Mark ends up having to carry them. While Mark books in, I make a run for the nearest loo. Why isn’t the Imodean working?

The people here are lovely and one of the girls takes us to our hut called Guava Bungalow. This is made of tan mudbricks with a thatched roof and shaded by tall trees and surrounded by pretty gardens. Inside is a towering vaulted bamboo ceiling and a four poster bed draped with a mozzie net. With no glass on the windows and gaps between the roof and the walls, I think we’ll definitely need it tonight. We also have a roughly built table and chairs. Our private bathroom is an outdoor setup surrounded by a woven bamboo fence with a hand basin, shower and urinal under the eaves and the toilet in a little hut up five stairs. This toilet experienced is something new.

Distant Relatives in an ecolodge so the toilets are dry toilets meaning that your wee wees are caught in a cup at the front and the poopadoops drop into the dry leaves at the back. When you’re finished you scoop in crushed leaves from a big cane basket then shut the lid.

After settling in, we check out the volleyball court (no thanks), the sunbathing beds (no thanks) and the pool (yes please). This is a kidney shape with little bamboo cabanas and just outside the main chill-out room. This is a Portuguese style with arched windows with fancy metal grates, white stucco walls, cane lounges covered in colourful cushions, swirling ceiling fans, a What To Do blackboard and a bar. All we need for a fabulous stay!

We meet Steve the barman and Mwanase the female manager. Before lunch we decide to go to the beach which is four hundred metres down through the grounds along dirt paths overhung with thick vegetation. This is not actually a beach as we know it but a pretty sandy spot on Kilifi Creek. Some of the boat guys are being overly friendly but we’ll probably go out with them later anyway. We swim around with some African guys in the warm water – gorgeous.

Back up to swim in the pool then order lunch of a warm chicken salad for me and a beef curry for Mark. Bob Marley music is playing – ‘No Woman No Cry’ for Angie – and we do.

Later I have a massage in our room with a local lady called Josephine – one hour for $30. Her husband was killed in a road accident five years ago and she’s supporting four sons living in a mud hut in the neighbouring village. I love her.

After a rest, a sleep and reading on our Kindles, we walk over to the chill-out area in the dark. Dinner is fish and vegetables for Mark and nothing for me. Don’t feel like eating but I do feel like drinking. Mark has Castle Light while I have my usual duty free Bacardi.

We chat for ages with Mwanase who tells us that our plan to get a bus right up the coast past Malindi isn’t a good idea as the road is terrible and too dangerous as it’s still a hotspot for terrorist attacks. Last year, insurgents attacked passenger buses and even police vehicles.

She says we should fly from Malindi to Lamu and will help us book a flight tomorrow. Love these change of plans! Bed at 9pm.

Monday 5thth February, 2018


I’m still shitting! I take Imodean then we have breakfast by the pool – fruit salad and yoghurt with passionfruit juice and a coffee for Mark. We’ve decided to stay here again today firstly because we love it and secondly so I can try and get rid of this bug.

Mark has a massage with Jospehine at nine o’clock and I book her for a half hour one this afternoon. We spend the rest of the morning hanging out on multi-patterned colourful mattresses and pillows in a big airy room with wide openings decorated with black ironwork.


We book a dhow ride for this afternoon at 4.30pm as long as I’m feeling okay. For lunch Mark orders chicken wings and we share a cheeseburger and chips. Mwanase turns up to tell us that she’s booked us a 3.30pm flight tomorrow from Malindi to Lamu for only $30 each!

Josephine turns up late but still in time for both of us to have a half hour massage each. We give her the bag of passionfruit we’d bought in Mombasa to take home for her kids.

I’m still constantly on the loo so we have to cancel the boat ride but still have to pay 2,000 KS anyway. Later we chat with Mwanase who rings her parents who live in Lamu town. They own a guesthouse which she books for our first night on the island. Their hotel manager, Kesh, will meet us at the airport. She also gives us the number of the boat captain who can take us to Shela Beach. All a bit confusing but we’ll sort things out when we get there.

Tonight a movie has been set up outside where we all sit on the sand. Lovely here under the stars having our drinks but we’ve seen the movie before – Inglorius Basterds – and we can’t read the subtitles anyway. Besides that a Rasta guy is smoking a bong so we move to the pool.

Tuesday 6th February, 2018

 Kilifi to Malindi to Lamu Town, Lamu Island

I’m feeling heaps better this morning so after a good sleep, we have a snuggle then have20180131_132026250_iOSbreakfast by the pool. The weather is perfect once again – same blue skies and high temperatures every day so far.

After a swim we laze around next to the pool reading on our Kindles – monkeys are playing in the trees next to us. We ring Lauren – Abi has two new worlds in Minecraft and Elkie has two dummies in her mouth. They have a long talk to Pa about cockroaches.

Time to leave soon so we shower in our lovely outdoor bathroom then pack before paying our bill of $240 for two night’s accommodation plus all our food and drinks.

At one o’clock we set off in a taxi to Malindi with two French girls who are also on our same flight to Lamu. They are Constance who lives in Germany and Aminata who lives in Addis Ababa. Our driver is excruciatingly slow almost coming to a stop at speed bumps and crawling through small towns until we arrive at Malindi Airport forty-five minutes later. This has a small open-sided, pleasant terminal painted white and decorated with Maasai artwork.

Our plane to Lamu is small with propellars but looks ok. We leave on time at 3.30pm for the twenty minute flight. We have lovely views of the coastline and islands but the wind is a real worry and we come into land almost sideways. The tiny airport is actually on Manda Island which means we need to get a boat to Lamu. Kesh from Amu House meets us and we follow him to the jetty where about thirty of us cram into a small boat. The water is choppy because of the wind and we hope it dies down soon. Lamu is only fifteen minutes from Manda so luckily we’re not out on the water too long.

From the boat, Lamu town spreads out before us along the waterfront opposite. It reminds us of Stone Town on Zanzibar where we stayed in 2014 – palm trees, mosques, an Omani fort and crumbling Portuguese buildings. And like Zanzibar, Lamu is a Swahili island.


The Swahili culture embraces all parts of Lamu’s society and is very appealing but very complicated. It’s not a single culture or way of life, but a mixture of traces from European, African, Arab and Asian traditions and cultures brought to the island by sailors and traders centuries ago.

At the busy wharf we jump out while our bags are handed up to us. We follow Kesh through narrow alleyways lined with coral rag walls and where people call out ‘jambo’ (Swahili for hello) and donkeys roam free. This is a different world, not feeling like Africa at all.

Amu House is a very old Swahili house which opens up inside a carved door off one of these tiny alleyways into a sort of courtyard with steps leading up to the rooms. We run into Constance and Aminata – they must have got the same deal with Mwanase from Distant Relatives as well.

Our room is huge with a sitting room between the bedroom and the bathroom. We have a beautiful carved Swahili bed with a mosquito net and louvred shutters at the windows.

On the rooftop terrace we find colourful woven day beds under a soaring thatched roof. All around are other thatched roofs and views of the water. We’ll come back in the morning but for now we need to find somewhere to eat/drink.

We head back down to the waterfront then the main square next to the Fort. Two huge spreading trees shade the square where lots of men are just sitting around chatting while fruit and vegetable vendors sell from wooden carts. The women wear the full burka with just slits for their eyes – they’re very friendly. And there are donkeys!

On dark, we find a locals-only rooftop restaurant called the New Mahrus which has a great menu but they don’t seem to have anything on it including seafood – but the water is just over there!!!! Also the menu has photos of succulent chicken drumsticks but they don’t actually sell them – ever. There is also no beer (Muslim) so we just order a pineapple juice each. These come out in huge glass tankards that we can’t finish.


Down on the waterfront the wind is still up so we seek out the Bush Restaurant as recommended by Lonely Planet. This old place has been a favourite with travelers for years and we love it too. With a rough cement floor, a grass roof, cross beams made from the trunks of trees, cane light fittings and wooden tables and chairs, it has a rustic, unpretentious feel. A group of local men wearing white robes and caps are talking animatedly around a big table but otherwise we’re the only other people here except for Constance and Aminata. Mark orders calamari, salad and beers but there is only full strength coke for me so I don’t bother. Anyway, I’m still not feeling the best on the stomach so we go to bed early.

Wednesday 7th February, 2018

 Lamu Town, Lamu Island

We have a bit of a sleep-in as we plan to stay here in Lamu town today even though we will move guesthouses as we always do. Before breakfast we head up to the roof where we ring Lauren and the dollies – all good and we really miss our three darling girls.


On the dark bottom floor we find breakfast set up for us in a windowless dining room – very atmospheric. Constance and Aminata soon turn up so we share stories over fruit, mango juice, toast poached eggs and scrambled eggs.

Next we check out Jannat House then a few other guesthouses along the waterfront. But it’s still windy so we decide on Jannat which is tucked away amongst the alleyways and so totally protected from the wind.

Returning to Amu House, we grab our packs stopping to chat to a local man just outside who says ‘wind make me crazy’. We’ve seen him every time we come and go and he’s always feeding the endless starving cats around here. Word has it that the feral cats of Lamu are the descendants of the ancient cats of the Egyptian pharaos – true story!


We really love Jannat House and especially our room which is actually two rooms with bathrooms and decorated with wood-carved Swahili furniture and African/Arabic antiques. We also have our own private balcony overlooking gardens and the pool. The House is an 18th century merchant’s house, now a guesthouse apparently popular with writers. The rooms are up and down higgledy piggledy staircases with hidden away open-sided seating areas all over the place – it’s easy to get lost. All this for only $50AUD.

And because a pool is usually a luxury on our budget, we head straight for the water. This is heaven!


On our way back out, we talk to Kara who works here. She tells us that she’s going to Shela this afternoon and if we meet her here at one thirty, she’ll take us there to show us around.

So now we decide to just wander around the Old Town with a list of things to check out but mainly to just take in the atmosphere of this exotic town. We make our way through the maze of narrow streets dodging donkeys laden down with anything that needs transporting around the town – rocks, boxes of soft drinks, bags of sand – we feel sorry for them.


There are no cars in Lamu town at all so you have to either walk or ride a donkey. Cars wouldn’t fit through the winding alleyways anyway. Wandering the small streets, we pass Maasai men, more starving Egyptian cats, Muslim women in colourful veils and black dresses and the ever present donkeys. Of course, where you get donkeys you donkey poops so the whole place stinks – maybe we’ll get used to it.


The tiny alleyways are lined with tiny shops usually with the owner sitting on a stool out front. Local people go about their day, shopping or talking in groups – it’s a nice feel here. We find an appealing outdoor restaurant on the harbour – leafy and cool as the day is heating up. We share an expensive hamburger and chips – sooo good.

Nearby is the Al Maawiya School where school girls in crisp white pants and veils with dark blue dresses are playing skipping games out front. Now we check out the Donkey Hospital then the Lamu Museum before meeting Kara at Jannat House.


We follow her down to the wharf where she argues with a boat guy who is trying to charge her too much. She finds another boat but now another woman is screaming at the new guy saying that she sent us to him so he should pay her a commission – poor lady must be really desperate for money.

By the way, Lamu’s port has a horrible history. It was founded by Arab traders in the 14th century when the island prospered on the slave trade until the British eventually closed the slave markets in 1873 – similar to Zanzibar’s history.

The trip to Shela is quite scary with the water even bumpier and choppier today, still because of the dreaded wind. Kara and I are drenched by a couple of rogue waves that crash into the boat but we have a great laugh about it. In fifteen minutes we pull into Shela and jump out into the water – no wharf here.

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Most ex-pats live here at Shela but many locals as well so there’s a mix of really beautiful villas and family homes. Kara leads us through the same type of narrow laneways as in Lamu town but this is definitely cleaner although the donkeys roam free here as well.

She takes us to Pwani Guesthouse, an old Swahili house, where the owner shows us a room on the top floor with wonderful views of the water and Manda Island opposite. The room opens up onto a rooftop dining/chillout area sheltered by a grass roof. Oh yes, we’ll take it and book in for tomorrow night.

Just below Pwani is the very exclusive and very expensive Peponi’s Hotel – we never expected there’d be anything like this on Lamu. It’s run by a Dutch family who came across an abandoned Arab style house in the 1960’s and turned it into a small hotel. Today the hotel has expanded but still seem small and intimate with Swahili architecture and a tropical feel.

While Kara leaves us to go to a meeting, Mark and I have drinks inside and enjoy an hour of people watching – mainly Europeans. This will definitely be on the agenda over the next few days.

Instead of risking the boat ride back to Lamu town, we decide to walk. Luckily a couple of motor bike riders are going our way and give us a lift. The bikes can only be used out of Lamu town and Shela. They drop us near the Lamu Palace Hotel where we think we’ll stay when we come back from Shela.

Nearby we meet a lady called Zeena who tells she can do massages for $12 AUD an hour. She walks with us back to Jannat stopping on the way at a tiny shop to buy coconut oil. I go before Mark then we both have showers before heading out for the night. The first job is to find a supermarket to buy Coke Zero or Diet Coke – can’t do the full sugar thing. The supermarket is up a steep staircase but no luck. We’re told that there isn’t any on the island at all.

Tonight we’re back at the Bush Restaurant and because I’m feeling heaps better we order up big – Mark has fish fillets, vegetables and salad while I have calamari, chips and salad. The owner is really sweet and brings out a vase of flowers and lights a candle to put on our table – very romantic.


From here we find Petleys Bar in a dark upstairs room. After a few drinks though we can’t stand the loud music and head back to Jannat to bed.

Thursday 8th February, 2018

Lamu Town to Shela, Lamu Island

Breakfast at Jannat is on the rooftop dining area – passionfruit juice, mango, pineapple, watermelon, eggs and toast. We’re serenaded to the sound of donkeys loudly braying in the laneway down below. We call Lauren who sends us gorgeous photos of Elkie in her new hot pink dance uniform

The guy on the desk arranges for a boat to take us to Shela. After packing we meet Mohammed downstairs at 9.30am and follow him to the wharf. Dodging donkey poop all the way we pass veiled women and white robed men shuffling by. Sadly we come across a group of army or police in camouflage gear and carrying big guns, who are escorting eight bedraggled men hand-cuffed together in pairs.


At the wharf we hand over 5,000KSh to Mohammed for our ‘private’ boat but then a man and a lady jump in as well – whatever. Funnily we stop at a petrol station which is actually an old wooden hut floating in the middle of the harbor. Petrol is banned on the island as it’s too dangerous apparently.


We’re dropped at Shela near Peponi’s and jump out into the water with Mark carrying our big packs above his head. At the Pwani Guesthouse we’re met by Mwini, the friendly, chubby owner. Before showing us our room he wants us to order food for tonight so he can go to the market.

But now we’re ready to settle into our lovely room. Our beds are the traditional hand-carved, wooden Swahili type with fancy wooden footboards and
headboards decorated with glass tiles. The bedroom is big and airy with windows along two walls plus a very big bathroom down two cement steps. The view from our window is picture-postcard – coconut palms, a white sandy beach, turquoise water and picturesque dhows sailing past.

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Outside our room is a sheltered sitting area with a palm roof and white stucco arches. Concrete benches are covered with thick cushions plus a big wooden table and chairs are all under the shade.

On the rooftop deck we meet Barbro and Alf who are staying in the only other room that opens up onto the terrace. They’re an elderly Swedish couple who come to Kenya for two months every year to help in a Maasai village. They build schools and do whatever else is needed then come to Lamu for ten days before going home. We love them already.

Now Mark and I walk down to Peponi’s for lunch sitting inside the posh dining room. After club sandwiches and lime sodas we wander back up into the labyrinth of laneways to explore this small Islamic village. Past white washed walls overhung with pink and orange flowering bougainvillea we come across the inevitable braying donkeys, howling Egyptian cats and cute school children walking to their madrassa (Islamic school).

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Dinner is downstairs at Pwani in a cool inner courtyard. Our host, Mwini, proudly brings out the dishes – fifteen king prawns for me and a whole fish for Mark plus a huge salad to share. We take our time before heading back down to Peponi’s for drinks.

We watch darkness fall sitting out on the terrace under a pergola dripping with a white flowering vine. People watching is excellent – a mix of wealthy Europeans (no Australians funnily enough) and hippy types – most people are barefoot. Later we move inside to the bar for more drinks – Cascade light for Mark and Bacardi for me. I’ve discovered that if I water down the full strength Coke with soda water it’s sort of like drinking Coke Zero – think I’ll do this at home as well – even Coke Zero is bad shit!

Peponi has a resident dog who spends his time dropping pebbles from his mouth onto our table so we can throw them for him. We don’t stay long but have another drink on our own terrace before going to bed fairly early – sensible!

Fri 9th February, 2018

Shela, Lamu Island

Breakfast is downstairs then we walk along the water’s edge towards the southern end of the island. This southern coastline is composed of mainly sand dunes and a deserted twelve kilometre beach. Of course, I’m not walking that far so we turn back to Shela. On the way we meet a guy with a donkey who gives me a ride. It’s only a few feet off the ground but I’m still scared I’ll fall off.

As we reach Peponi we find a guy tagging turtles in the grounds then we walk uphill to the little market area. Mark decides to have a haircut as he always does while we’re overseas – always a funny experience. Another customer waiting is a guy called Osman who says he will arrange for us to go on a dhow sail this afternoon. This is something we’d planned while we’re here so let’s do it!

Later we see a group of tiny school kids all dressed in white walking down to the beach with their teacher. They’re incredibly cute all holding hands and it makes us miss our dollies even more.

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After less than one day on Shela we’ve fallen Iove with it so we think we’ll stay at least again tonight. But while we also love Pwani we’ll have a look at a few other places just in case we’re missing out on something magical. We check out a couple of traditional houses which have amazing rooms but don’t have the view or the appeal of Pwani so we’ll stay there again tonight at least.



Around every corner is something to see – gorgeous white washed villas with thick tropical gardens, little local shops, people carrying baskets hanging from a stick over their shoulders and, at one corner, even a donkey jam. We sit outside a shop drinking soda waters to watch the local life go by.

We eventually come out at the water where Maasai men are selling trinkets and a donkey being dragged into the water to be washed. Lunch at Peponi’s is samosas and wine for Mark while I’m extra happy with a cheesecake.

At two o’clock we meet Osman down at the beach who shows us a motor boat – what?? No we want a traditional dhow so he makes a phone call and in minutes here comes a beautiful old dhow around the corner. We’re to pay 3,000KSh for an hour. Our captain and his mate are lovely telling us to chill out on cushions on the deck as we sail over towards Manda Island and then down to Lamu town and back. Tick this off our bucket list!!

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Before going back to our room for an afternoon nap, we stop at Peponi’s for Mark to have a wine and to share a mozzarella, tomatao, basil and ham bagel. The food here is always perfect. On sunset we’re back for hot chips, a beer for Mark and a margarita for me.

But we’re not staying as tonight we’re off to Manda Island with Alf and Barbro. They’d told us that every Friday night the Diamond Beach Resort puts on a movie and organises a boat to take people from Shela across to Manda. About twelve of us wade into the water and jump into a small boat that chugs across the Lamu Channel.

Not sure how safe this is with no life jackets so I don’t think I’ll have any more to drink till we get back. At Manda we again jump out into the water then walk across the sand to Diamond Beach Resort. Lots of people are already sitting in the dining/bar area which is a large open-sided space sheltered by a thatched roof. We sit with Alf and Barbro ordering pizzas and soda water. A nice lady hands Barbro and me little flowers to pin to our tops but they smell so strong I have to sneakily throw them away. The movie is ‘Hell or High Water’ which we’d wanted to see anyway.

Time to go, we all meet back down on the water’s edge but the boat doesn’t appear for ages – Lamu time. Finally we cross the channel under a million stars – have loved this night. At Pwani the four of us have more drinks on our shared terrace.

Saturday 10th February, 2018

Shela, Lamu Island

Today is Jackie’s birthday so we send her a message then have breakfast on the terrace with our lovely neighbours. They’re going to walk to Lamu today to buy wine but Mark and I think we’ll go back to Diamond Beach. So at eleven o’clock we meet a guy called Abdul who says he’ll take us across then pick us up when we call him.

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The water is calm today so it’s a pleasant crossing. The sand is red hot on Manda beach which has a few sunbakers lying around under roughly made shelters while a small herd of cows mills arund.

We share a baked chicken salad and a seafood pizza washed down with our favourite lime sodas then I wander around the grounds. I come across a small shop where I buy brass earrings and a glass bead necklace from an English woman who actually owns the resort.

We’re not sure if this was the place, but in 2011 a woman was kidnapped from a resort around here by Somali pirates who had been terrorizing communities along the Kenyan coast. She was returned okay in the end and things have been calmer the last couple of years.

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We both have a swim then Mark decides to walk to the point to see what’s around the corner. Not me, I spend the time lying on a comfy rattan cot under a palm shelter. When Mark returns he finds a hammock close by and we both read for an hour.

Mark calls Abdul about three o’clock and we have another swim before he arrives. Back on Shela beach we’re approached by a young guy carrying a reed basket. He shows Mark hot samosas which is very popular around here. We buy some.

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Nearby down on the concrete ledge near Peponi’s, a group of Rasta dhow boys ask if we want to go with them on a sunset cruise – no thanks, they all look stoned!

Dinner is with Barbro and Alf in the lower courtyard. They’ve also invited a friend called Momma Sophie who they met when they first started coming here. Momma Sophie is from Germany but lives here six months a year. She has brought along a big bottle of red wine to share and flowers for me and Barbro.

We all share garlic prawns, three whole fish, salad, rice and a big plate of vegetables while Momma Sophie never draws breath. ‘I have a story to tell you’ and off she goes again and again.

Have enough of her in the end so Mark and I escape to Peponi’s. We see Osman from yesterday and a crazy local who’s here every night making a total pest of himself. Fun! 

Sunday 11th February, 2018

Shela to Lamu Town, Lamu Island

Today we say goodbye to Alf and Barbro after eating breakfast with them on the terrace. We swap email addresses and hope we see them again one day but know we never will – just too far away. They’ve made our stay in Shela all that much better.

Mark pays Mwini then rings Yusf to pick us up in his boat. The water is calm today with blue skies above, so the fifteen minute trip to Lamu town is the best we’ve had since we’ve been here. At the main wharf we drag our packs down to the Lamu Palace Hotel where we hope to get a room for tonight.

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This Arabic style hotel faces the sea front and sits in the heart of town. Inside, tall columns support impressive arches and the spacious foyer has high ceilings with a wide staircase leading up to the rooms. Luckily they have one for us but it’s not ready just yet so we lie around inside on one of the antique lounges while we wait.


We see Zeena walking by so we make arrangements to meet her back here at two o’clock for a massage. Until then we hang out in our room for an hour reading and repacking. At eleven o’clock we set off through the maze of streets in this busy little area that we hadn’t visited when we were here last week.

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Our plan is to visit the Fort but we know that we need to buy the tickets from the Museum. An old man latches onto us rattling off things about Lamu that we already know. At the Museum he says ‘you will need at least two hours’ – not bloody likely!

As we sort of expected, the Museum is pretty boring except for the interesting architecture. It was built in 1813 by the Sultan of Oman who was trying to suck up to the people of Lamu as he wanted control of the East African coastline. Now another man approaches us wanting to be our guide but we’ve had enough and take off.

We can hear singing coming from the church next door and stick our heads in to have a look. It’s packed with young girls all dressed in white and green, who all pile outside to buy ice blocks. We do the same then buy extras for two local ladies and their four children – a nice time hanging out with them.

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Lunch is in a basic restaurant on the waterfront but because it’s only local food, I’m not game to risk my stomach again. Mark is fine and hoes into rice with a fish soup. From here we walk back to the main square to visit Lamu Fort which served as a British prison from the early twentieth century right up until 1984. We climb up to the parapets for good views of the town and the Indian Ocean.

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The square is very busy at the moment with people coming and going to the market. This is tucked away next to the Fort and as fabulous as all fresh food markets all over the world. More stalls are set up along adjoining alleyways – fruit, vegetables and chickens for sale in cages.


Zeena doesn’t turn up for the massage so we spend the rest of the afternoon hanging out in our room then come downstairs at 6.30pm. We decide to have dinner here tonight as the food is supposed to be good. We could have our meal inside the restaurant or out on the terrace overlooking the ocean. We choose inside to enjoy the wonderful Arabic ambience and also to escape the stink of donkey poop. I don’t think we’ll be able to get the smell out of our nostrils for a week.

Dinner is garlic calamari and a seafood pizza. Later we wander around the streets which are even busier and interesting after dark. More drinks at the Palace then bed at 8.30pm.

Monday 12th February, 2018

Lamu Island to Manda Island to Malindi to Nairobi

Sadly this is our last day on Lamu and we wake to a gorgeous day. We’re up at seven o’clock for showers and to pack then we have breakfast downstairs – passionfruit juice, fruit, tea, coffee and eggs on toast – same, same but good.

At 9.30am we catch a boat to Manda Island, flying out at 11.15am. We have a layover in Malindi then land at Nairobi’s Domestic terminal about one o’clock. We grab a taxi to a market where Mark buys a t-shirt and I buy earrings and bangles for presents. Even here there are armed guards who check the taxi inside and out.

From here we drive to Karen where we’ve booked a room at Milimani Backpackers where Julie and Steve stayed last year. This renovated house is set behind a big garden with leafy side and back gardens as well. After reading on couches in the big chill-out area we dress for a night out at Carnivore.

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It takes forty-five minutes to get to there through very uninteresting suburbs and lots of peak hour traffic which shouldn’t be as bad on the way back. Someone described the interior as a rustic setting with a medieval banquet hall which is spot on.

Carnivore is known as “the ultimate Beast of a Feast” where exotic meats like ostrich, crocodile, camel and venison are roasted over hot coals then brought to our table on long skewers. Mark tries them all but I stick to the normal boring meats like chicken, lamb and beef. We just choose what we want and how much we want.

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This is a fixed price menu which includes dessert and side dishes like soup and salad. It’s all a bit daggy but lots of fun and we’re glad we came.

Back home to bed for a very early start in the morning.

Tuesday 13th February, 2018

Nairobi to Addis Ababa (Ethiopia) to Johannesburg

Our alarm is set for 1am to get a taxi to the airport for our 5am takeoff on Ethiopian Airlines. There are no direct flights to Johannesburg which means we now fly two hours north (not south) to Addis Ababa in Ethiopia where we spent a few amazing weeks back in 2017. A two hour layover in Addis then a five hour flight (south finally)

to Johannesburg. Here we have a six hour layover before a fourteen hour Qantas flight to Sydney – a loooong day!

Wednesday 14th February, 2018

Newcastle to Sydney

Land in Sydney at 3.30 in the afternoon then a train to Central then a train to Newcastle to our darlings.











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Jordan and Israel 2019




    Our Itinerary

2/05/2019 Thurs Newcastle to Sydney
3/05/2019 Fri Sydney 6am to Dubai 2.10pm, Dubai 5pm to Bahrain 5.15pm, Bahrain 5.55pm to Amman 8.30pm
4/05/2019 Sat Amman to Jerash to Amman
5/05/2019 Sun Amman to Wadi Musa-Petra
6/05/2019 Mon Wadi Musa-Petra to Little Petra
7/05/2019 Tues Little Petra to Wadi Rum
8/05/2019 Wed Wai Rum to Aqaba
9/05/2019 Thurs Aqaba (flight to Amman ) to Jerusalem (Israel)
10/05/2019 Fri Jerusalem
11/05/2019 Sat Jerusalem to Masada to Dead Sea to Jerusalem
12/05/2019 Sun Jerusalem
13/05/2019 Mon Jerusalem to Nazareth
14/05/2019 Tues Nazareth
15/05/2019 Wed Nazareth to Bethlehem (Palestine)
16/05/2019 Thurs Bethlehem to Madaba (Jordan)
17/05/2019 Fri Madaba to Amman. Amman 21.55 to
18/05/2019 Sat Dubai 2.05am, Dubai 8.45am to
19/0/2019 Sun Sydney 7.40am

Thursday 2nd May, 2019

 Newcastle to Sydney

This morning we take the dollies to school then Mark heads off for work. I meet Chris and Kerrie at Café Inu for our usual Thursday lunch. Later I dye my hair then pack before Lauren drives us to Hamilton Station to catch the 4.20pm train to Central Station in Sydney. We’re staying at the Royal Exhibition Hotel – an old favourite in Surry Hills. Drinks and dinner downstairs in the bar then an early night.

Friday 3rd May, 2019

Sydney to Dubai to Bahrain to Amman

Our Emirates flight leaves at the super early time of 6am so we set the alarm for 2.15am to take a taxi to the airport. After checking in at 3 o’clock we buy Bacardi then eat McDonalds which is our usual airport routine. We also use the massage chairs – another Sydney airport routine.

So why are we going to Jordan? ‘Is it safe’ everyone asks us. Yes, even though Jordan borders both Syria and Iraq, it’s still a stable oasis. But it does have its own massive problems (I googled it). The Jordanian government often plays the role of mediator between neighbouring countries and has taken on enormous numbers of refugees – 2 million Palestinian refugees live in Jordan, many since 1948, and more than 300,000 of them still live in refugee camps. They’ve been joined by some 700,000 Iraqis, and most recently, one and a half million Syrians.  Since the start of the conflict in Syria in 2011, Jordan has shouldered the impact of this massive influx of Syrian refugees with the Jordanian people paying the price as it places huge pressure on the country’s already over-stretched resources.

Another problem for Jordan is the Israeli/Palestinian situation which, God forbid, Donald Trump is sticking his dopey nose into. King Abdulla of Jordan met with Trump in April but couldn’t get a straight answer (who’d have thought) about the Israeli/Palestinian Peace Plan. The Jordanians need to know as it will impact Jordan because it borders the West Bank. If Jordan’s current stability depends on Donald Dump then God help them!

But back to the trip. Our Emirates flight leaves on time at 6am and we’re in heaven with a spare seat between us! And besides having three seats, the leg room is so much bigger than we’ve experienced in years. We usually fly budget airlines but even Qantas doesn’t have this much space.

So for the fourteen hours in the air, we read, sleep, eat, and watch the inflight tv. Mark is over the moon watching the last season of Game of Thrones while I watch The Mule, Crazy Rich Asians, Green Book and The Wife. The time passes quickly and comfortably.

Finally we see desert below and land in Dubai in the United Arab Emirates. We only have three hours before our next flight at 5pm and need to get from Terminal 3 to Terminal 1. Getting there is confusing to say the least – up lifts, down other lifts, a train then a bus.

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Luckily, our Gulf Air flight is running half an hour late. This is good for this connection but we’re flying to Bahrain with an hour to spare before our flight to Amman in Jordan. In the end we take off on the same plane but allocated different seats. The flight is only two and a half hours but it seems forever since we left our bed in Sydney. Arrive at Amman’s Queen Alia International Airport at 9pm where we take a forty minute taxi into the city.

Neither of us can keep awake, both nodding off most of the way. At last we’re dropped at Zaman Ya Zaman Guesthouse in downtown. It’s very cute and atmospheric but we’ll see it all tomorrow. For now, we collapse into bed.

Saturday 4th May, 2019

 Amman to Jerash to Amman

At seven o’clock we’re up for showers and to head downstairs for breakfast. Our room is tiny but clean and the shared bathroom is close by so we’re happy. Best is the view from the landing – directly across from the two thousand year old Roman Theatre – a huge amphitheatre cut into the hillside. It can seat up to six thousand people and is still used today for concerts. Funny how our cheap little guesthouse has the best view in town!

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We’re served breakfast in the foyer sitting on an old lounge and surrounded by very Arabic furniture and decorations. After scrambled eggs, baked beans, tomato, olives, sausage, hummus, yoghurt and pitta bread, we’re served hot mint tea.

Today we plan to visit the ancient Greco-Roman city of Jerash which, after Petra of course, is Jordan’s main tourist attraction. Mark organizes for a driver to pick us up at 9am. He’ll drive us there and back for $80AUD – this is not Asia!

Our driver is Ead, a friendly local man who drives very fast. Leaving Amman behind, we cross the fertile hills of Gilead (is this where Margaret Attwood took the name for the Handmaid’s Tale?) about fifty kilometres north of Amman – which, by the way, was once called Philadelphia.

The green countryside with olive groves, green-houses, goat herds and evergreen forests is a surprise as we expected all of Jordan to be desert. Actually only Eastern Jordan is characterized by desert terrain, dotted with a few oases, but here in the western highlands the climate is more Mediterranean.

After an hour we arrive in modern Jerash, a small town that has sprung up around the ancient ruins. These ruins are said to be one of the most complete examples of a provincial Roman city to be seen anywhere in the world.

We pass through a covered market and buy red and white chequered scarves worn by the local men. At the entrance, we’re given free entry as we show our Jordan Pass. We’d been advised to buy this on all travel websites. You have to buy it before you arrive in Jordan as you don’t need to buy visas on arrival and there’s free entry into most historical sited including Petra. For $140 AUD each, it’s a good deal.


For the next two hours we wander through the streets of ancient Jerash made even more atmospheric with the rugged backdrop of the Gilead Mountains. The colonnaded streets, theatres, public baths and fountains are amazingly well preserved despite the passage of time.


We especially love coming across young goat herders from the adjacent village watching over very long-haired goats. Music is coming from an amphitheatre above us where we find musicians playing traditional instruments.


The sun and heat is finally getting to us so we head back to the entrance where we find a table under trees to drink orange juice and coffee.

Back in Amman, Ead drives us to the Jett Booking Office where we hope to buy bus tickets for Wadi Musa tomorrow morning. A young woman takes our passports and says ‘you wait here’. She ignores us for half an hour until Ead comes in to see what’s taking so long. The woman tells him ‘bus full’ – wtf? Why didn’t she tell us?? No worries about the bus, though – we’ll sort something else out later.

Now it’s time to eat so Ead drops us off near Zaman. The street is hectic with traffic on both sides of the road. We find a restaurant with a second storey balcony that overlooks the madness down below and the Roman Theatre opposite. Young couples are smoking sheeshas and Mark orders a beer.

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After a rest in the coolness of our room, we set off again at 3.30pm to find a taxi to take us to Al Pasha Turkish Bath. I’d found this on the internet after researching hammams (Turkish baths). The photos looked amazing and it doesn’t disappoint. The entrance is leafy and welcoming and the interior is awesome – like a huge Bedouin tent complete with real palm trees.

The main area is dominated by a large water fountain and surrounded by Ottoman couches, antique tables and chairs, mirrors, Arabesque tiles, coloured glass chandeliers and Persian rugs.


A young man leads us to the changing area where we strip down to our swimmers before taking a shower. Inside, the hammam is other worldly – dark and steamy with stone floors and walls, arched ceilings and stone collumns.

First is the steam room which is stiflingly hot but made bearable by an ice cold hibiscus tea. Next is a hot tub with the emphasis on hot. I keep jumping out to sit on the side to try and cool down.

Next we’re taken to the scrubbing area where we’re loofa-ed raw then have buckets of water poured over us to wash away all the dead skin. Now back to the hot tub before an oil massage lying on old wooden tables – all so atmospheric! This is definitely the highlight but we still have more punishment to come.

We’re beckoned to a sauna which is so hot it’s unbearable and we don’t stay long. The final stage is to lie on our backs on top of a round marble slab for twenty minutes with our feet sticking up against the wall.

After dressing we’re given cold drinks near the fountain – loved it all! The cost was $50AUD each for two hours and worth every cent for such an amazing experience.


Returning to Zaman we can hear music coming from the rooftop of a house next door. About twenty people are crammed into a tiny balcony, some playing traditional instruments while the others dance and clap – so lucky to have seen this.

Before dinner we decide to walk up to the Citadel but after climbing hundreds of steps we think we’re lost and decide to see it when we come back in a couple of weeks.

Finding an interesting restaurant we head up to the rooftop bit. The weather is perfect and we find a table right on the edge overlooking the street and of course the Roman Theatre. The city looks especially lovely at this dusky time of day – all soft creams and whites. All buildings in Jordan are covered with thick white limestone or sandstone and apparently limited to four stories creating a very appealing and harmonious view.


While we eat pizza and drink Petra beer (Mark) and Bacardi with Pepsi (yuk) for me, we check out the locals – no tourists here – and the mini zoo. Ducklings, baby chicks, guinea pigs, bunnies and a tortoise run free under the tables and I’m scared someone will step

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Later we move downstairs to the very Bedouin bar for more drinks and tapas.

Bed at 9.30pm


Sunday 5th May, 2019

Amman to Wadi Musa-Petra

Up at 6.30am to shower and have breakfast in the little sunny dining room. The same deal as yesterday and, as we’ll soon find out, will be the same breakfast every day and wherever we go – ha ha.


Last night we’d organized with the desk for someone to take us to Wadi Musa but now we’re informed that the driver is sick. There doesn’t seem to be anyone else but we’re told that we can get a bus at the Southern Bus Station – what? – thought they were all full! One of the guesthouse guys comes with us because he says there are two Southern bus stations and he’ll have to make sure the driver takes us to the right one – what, again?

Luckily there’s one last bus to Wadi Musa today but we have to wait till it fills up before we can leave. Unluckily we’re the only takers so far. This means a two hour wait but in the meantime I seek out the ladies toilet and meet some lovely ladies from Petra who’ve come to Amman for the day. Mark walks across to a shop to buy coffee but it’s so thick and black he chucks it away.

At 10.30am we’re on our way for the 250 kilometres to Wadi Musa. Wadi Musa (Valley of Moses) is the closest town to Petra which is our actual destination and where we’ll visit tomorrow. For the four hour trip, the scenery is flat and barren and nothing of interest to see but arriving in Wadi Musa is much more as we’d hoped. The town sits spectacularly on the side of a bare rocky mountain where our Rocky Mountain Hotel sits perched looking over the town.


The man on the desk is very friendly and explains about getting to Petra tomorrow and we order packed lunches to take with us. It’s been fairly easy to converse with the locals because, after Arabic, English is Jordan’s second language.

This is probably because Jordan actually came into being in the 20th century as part of the French and British division of the Arabian Peninsula then became a British Mandate under the UN’s approval until 1946, when it became independent.

Our room has a wonderful view but we’re too hungry to hang around and walk up the hill in search of food. We buy hot chips – nothing else to buy around here – which we take up to Rocky Mountain’s rooftop Bedouin dining room which doesn’t serve food – ???

We lie around on woven, red Bedouin cushions. In fact the whole room – ceiling, walls and floor is the same Bedouin fabric! Back in our room we sleep till 6.30pm then dress up (sort of) for a ‘posh’ night out on the town. We catch a taxi to the Cave Bar – another great find on travellers’ blogs. Occupying a 2000-year-old Nabataean rock tomb, the bar claims to be the oldest in the world. It sits almost at the entrance to Petra itself.

Inside are rough sandstone walls, solid rock columns, dim lanterns and even little niches carved into the rock walls themselves with individual tables. We’re lucky to be able to grab one of these – very romantic and good to sneakily top up my coke with Bacardi. Because the bar was once a tomb, Mark says there’s lots of ‘spirits’ around. Ha, ha!  We order Caesar salad and chicken wings while Mark drinks Petra beer. Love, love it here!


One thing I must add here is that today is the first day of Ramadan. Ramadan is Islam’s holy month of fasting celebrating when God revealed the Quran to Muhammed. Between dawn and dusk Muslims are obliged to refrain from food, drink, sex – bloody hell!

I should have researched Ramadan dates for this year which I always have in the past if we’re going to a Muslim country. This is a big boo boo on my part especially since Jordan is 92% Sunni Muslims. Anyway, we’re lucky to find anywhere that actually sells alcohol.

Also from now on we’ll have to be mindful that while it isn’t illegal to eat or drink during the day, it’ll be pretty rude to be scoffing our faces in front of hungry Muslims. We’ll see how this will impact on our trip.

Outside I buy a hat at a market stall then we walk across to Movenpick. Love this too! We hang out in the gorgeous central area decorated with Arabic lights and a huge blue glass chandelier. Tall palm trees and marble columns add to the Middle Eastern feel. We check out the restaurants and other seating areas – all beautiful.


Outside we can’t find a taxi for ages but finally a young guy stops us and rings his brother-in-law to pick us up. Probably bullshit but soon Mohammed arrives and drives us to the Rocky Mountain for just a few dollars. We ask him if he’ll drive us to Little Petra tomorrow afternoon.


More drinks on the verandah off the dining room – another perfect night with the lights of Wadi Musa twinkling below us.

Monday 6th May, 2019

Wadi Musa-Petra to Little Petra

Today we’ll visit Petra. The reason for this whole trip. Showers at 5.30am then upstairs for a buffet breakfast – same, same – olives, pitta bread, yoghurt, boiled eggs, etc. We leave our bags at reception then catch a taxi to Petra Gate.

All travel blogs recommend visiting Petra as early as possible to avoid the crowds and it seems to be good advice. With only a couple of other people around, Mark walks the one kilometer to the Siq while I pay for a horse. Ha ha love it!


Even the ride there is fabulous – rock carvings and hand hewn caves dot the way while stark hills surround the path. Now we’re at the start of the Siq which is the main entrance to the ancient city. It’s a one kilometre dramatic passageway varying in width from three to twelve metres. We really enjoy the peace of the walk enclosed by the beautiful limestone cliffs and then suddenly, there it is! The Treasury! 


The Treasury is the jewel in the crown of Petra and what everyone imagines Petra to be. It’s thought to have been constructed in the 1st century BC, but its purpose still isn’t clear. The façade is lit up as the sun rises above the cliff face opposite. Later it will glow pink which is the reason Petra is often called The Rose City.

Camels sit in the foreground with their Bedouin wallahs, creating picture postcard opportunities. Very few other people here so we take our time to enjoy ‘the serenity’.


But Petra is much more than just the Treasury. The city was carved into the rock face by the Nabataean civilization, a nomadic Bedouin tribe who roamed the Arabian Desert and who established Petra as a major trading hub. It became the capital around the 6th Century BC but was hit by a major earthquake in the middle of the first century before being abandoned by all but the Bedouin who inhabited the caves and tombs – their ancestors still live here today (Googled).

From The Treasury we walk through a passageway where donkeys are tied up ready for the tourists to pour in later in the day. We walk past hand dug caves and tombs to emerge in a huge open area where we see the Royal Tombs just above the Lower Road. On both sides of the road are lots of decorated Nabataen burial facades.

Nearby we stop at a small open-sided café for tea then continue on past the amphitheatre to the Colonnaded Street. No point in describing it all – just as amazing as we’d imagined and we can see why it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and named as one of the New 7 Wonders of the World.  We can also see why it was immortalised in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade as the lost city in Indiana Jones’ hunt for the holy grail.


The sun is scorching by now and shade is non-existent. So, completely unlike me at least, we decide to climb up to The Monastery – supposed to be a long hard walk but we’re only here once, as they say. I’d also promised Den that we’d do it after he watched a documentary on Netflix.

We decide to ride donkeys instead of walking and set off uphill. Ha, ha – Mark’s donkey is mental and careers off in the wrong direction bringing back memories of Egypt when it always happened to him. The donkey guy starts to lead us up the steep rocky path then tells us to go up on our own! But, oh shit, the edge is right there and all donkeys are fucking crazy so we scream at him to come back. He’s not happy but we throw him 5 Dinar and set off walking. Rather die of exhaustion that fall off a cliff on the back of a donkey.


With 850 steps to the top we take our time and even stop in the rare shade of a cliff at one stage to drink poppas packed by our hotel. We notice a hole in the cliff wall high above us then out come a herd of about twenty goats followed by a lady goat herder. Some Bedouins still live here, living nearly the same as they would have a thousand years ago.


Most of the way is stairs carved into the rock but they’re uneven and shallow and we also have to dodge the many donkey turds. Lots of other people are on their way up or back so it can’t be that hard. The worst thing is the heat, 34 degrees C by now and still no shade. The steepest part is towards the end but at last there are small Bedouin stalls lining the path and we’re at the top!


But wait, the Monastery looks just like the Treasury although the setting is much less spectacular and the façade not nearly as ornate. All the same, it’s bloody awesome! So happy to see people sitting opposite on a wide rock ledge. Even happier to find a cave with lots of seating and we can even buy cold drinks and ice-creams. Our faces are as red as beetroots but we’re very proud of ourselves to have made it. We chat to a friendly English woman and her husband who can’t believe they reached the top as well.


Of course, the walk back down is less strenuous but we still have to dodge donkeys, donkey poo and tourists. We feel very smug seeing other people still on their way up – ‘nearly there’ we lie – ha ha.


I actually start to feel a bit weird and my skin feels clammy – think I’ve got heat stroke (just did my First Aid course so I’m paranoid!) At the bottom of the trail we stop to buy two big bottles of cold water that I pour all over myself to try to cool down.

Now we just want to leave so I talk Mark into getting donkeys back to the Treasury. The site looks very different by now with tourists crawling all over it. There are thousands! Apparently cruise ships pull into Aqaba which is only a couple of hours away and buses ferry the hordes up and back every day. I really don’t think we would have been so impressed if we’d come at this time of day nor had that wonderful first impression in the calmness of the morning.

We leave the donkeys at The Treasury and walk the one kilometer back through the Siq which is packed with people and so, it too, has lost all its atmosphere. I ride another horse to the gate because I’m lazy but a fabulous experience too – not going to miss out on anything! Hey, I’m riding a horse in Jordan!

Back in Wadi Musa we stop at a pizza place to buy cold lemon sodas plus hot chips and chicken wings – fun. Mark asks the owner to call Mohammed and we’re soon back at the Rocky Mountain Hotel to pick up our bags.

Now we’re off to Little Petra as we’d booked a tent for tonight at Little Petra Bedouin Camp. Little Petra is only about eight kilometres north of Wadi Musa on the edge of the Arabian Desert. The road follows the edge of the arid mountains around Petra then through the small Bedouin village of Umm Sayhoun. The Camp is just off the road and sits in a compact canyon surrounded by tall sandstone walls.


The owner, another Mohammed, is very friendly and shows us to our tent – a double bed and that’s it. Showers and toilets are in a separate building behind the central fire pit. We love the raised chill-out area lined with the red and black Bedouin fabric we’ve come to expect. There are lots of floor pillows, Turkish rugs and sheeshas so we feel very at home.

After a read and a sleep – our afternoon routine – we’re up for dinner in the Old Cave Restaurant. It actually is inside a cave and the buffet meal is good – meat balls, chicken, coleslaw, tomatoes, hummus and lots of sweets to choose from – we try one of each.

Dark by now and the cliffs surrounding the camp are lit up like fairyland. We didn’t realise how many little caves there were in the day but tonight each one is lit up with a light inside. It’s truly magical.


We sit around the fire while a local man boils water for tea which we’re served in tiny glass tumblers. I do have my duty free Bacardi so I just order a coke but no beer or any other sort of alcohol for Mark. I reluctantly share my Bacardi until one of the staff tells Mark that he can get him a beer. Heaven – until Mark reads the label – zero percent alcohol. Anyway we have a lovely time sitting out here on this warm, starry night.

Tuesday 7th May, 2019

 Little Petra to Wadi Rum

Our plan for today is to check out Little Petra then somehow get to Wadi Rum. We also need to book a camp at Wadi Rum but we’ll work that out after breakfast. This is back at The Old Cave Restaurant with the same breakfast we’ve had since we arrived in Jordan – olives, hummus, boiled eggs, tomatoes, flat bread plus coffee and hibiscus tea.


Next we set off for Little Petra which the owner says is ‘that way’ as he points in a vague westerly direction. We ‘hike’ across rough ground, hills and dry gullies, past Bedouin tents and herds of brown Damascus goats. In the distance we can see a few buses so we must be going the right way.


Little Petra or Siq Al-Barid, was given its name because of the similarities with the main site and is entered through a narrow opening similar to the Siq. But everything is on a much smaller scale – a mini-me. Besides tombs, temples, water channels and cisterns carved out of the rock we stop to watch a very old man playing a stringed musical instrument and a very old lady spinning goat hair. We like it here.


Walking back to the Camp we pass a simple Bedouin tent and meet a young boy herding the family goats – not much for them to eat around here. He races back to his tent to bring a pack of dusty old postcards – we buy them.


Seeing real Bedouins is a special experience. Some Bedouins, meaning desert dwellers, still practice pastoralism and still drive their herds of goats, sheep or camels across the desert for grazing. They camp in one spot for a few months until the animals eat all the grass then move on. This is probably why the camp looks so temporary.


Back at our tent we ask the owner to ring Salman Zwaedh Camp at Wadi Rum – only $70AUD a night for the two of us including food, a jeep tour and camel ride. We still have a few hours before Mohammed (the first one) picks us up so we have showers, repack and chill out in the chill out area.]


Right on noon, Mohammed arrives and we’re soon speeding back through Wadi Musa and on our way to Wadi Rum. The landscape is very uninspiring with ugly wind farms most of the way. Besides this Mohammed is on his phone constantly and even when I chat him he soon goes back to it. No more trips for you Mohammed – you’ve blown it!

As we near Rum Village we see box shaped houses which is where most Bedouins now live. Very unromantic compared to the black camel hair tents. Instead of leading a nomadic lifestyle these Bedouins have settled down and make a living growing crops.

At the Rum Visitor Centre we piss Mohammed off, ‘promising’ to call him to drive us from Aqaba to Madaba on Thursday – ha ha. We’ve been met by the very handsome Salman who piles us into the back of his jeep. Off we fly through the Arabian Desert passing dramatic sandstone and basalt mountains that jut out of its sandy floor and sometimes caravans of camels.


We stop at an area of rolling dunes where a few other jeeps are stopped. Mark climbs to the top of a huge dune while I spend the time cracking up at a group of Chinese ladies posing for photographs. They’re having a ball and they even have the guides laughing.



Off again to later stop at a Bedouin camp for tea. More handsome men are here all wearing loose white robes and the traditional red and white shemagh wrapped around their heads. A roaring fire in the middle is used to boil water in big blackened kettles then the guys dress Mark and I in traditional clothes – fun because we’re the only ones here. Soon though more jeeps arrive and out pile the Chinese tourists.


At the entrance to the camp is a boulder with the face of Lawrence of Arabia carved into the rock. Wadi Rum was actually introduced to the western world by T.E. Lawrence, a British officer-turned-author, who was based here during the Arab Revolt of 1917. I’d just watched David Lean’s 1963 movie, Lawrence of Arabia starring Peter O’Toole a few weeks ago. It’s why we’re adding Aqaba to our itinerary.

We don’t drive too much further as the wind has come up so we head for Salman Zwaedh Camp which will be our home for tonight. The camp is tucked into a protected natural niche in the orange cliff face with black goat hair tents forming a ring around a central area. The camp also includes a kitchen, a dining tent and an outdoor sitting space squeezed into a crevice in the rocks.


We love our tent – very spacious and even our own bathroom. After a rest we prepare for our sunset camel ride. Our camel wallah is waiting for us and Mark is given a blonde beauty with a snooty expression. We’re led across the silent, red sand desert.


Wadi Rum is named “The Valley of the Moon” because of its other-worldly landscape. But with reddish sand and mountains looking like the arid and red surface of Mars, Wadi Rum has also been the location of lots of films set on the red planet. We saw The Martian a couple of years ago but didn’t realise then that this is where it had actually been shot.


We eventually stop at a rocky outcrop where we leave the camels to climb to the top to watch the sunset. This must be the best place to watch the sun go down as we can see jeeps and other tourists on camels heading for this same spot.


Riding back to the camp the wind has come up and we cover our faces with our scarves – very Lawrence of Arabia! A brilliant experience!


At camp we’re in for another unique experience. Dinner is zarb, a sort of Bedouin barbeque which is all cooked underground. A cylindrical metal cage with layers of chicken, lamb and vegetables is lowered into a pit of burning coal, sealed then covered with sand and left for about three hours. We’re just in time to see it being pulled up out of the ground. The sand is dug away and the metal cage lifted up. When the lid is removed, the smell is amazing!

We head for the dining tent and sit around the walls on floor cushions to chat to the others. About twelve other people are staying here as well and we recognise the lesbians who’d also been at Little Petra last night. They’re hilarious and come from Italy while a gay couple from France tell us how they didn’t make the climb to the Monastery at Petra. A very funny night. A young Norwegian couple talk about their adventures in Israel so we gather some good information. Later we all sit out near the fire and drink tea.


No alcohol here so we don’t stay long. Before going to bed though Mark grabs a blanket each and we wander away from the camp to see the stars.

Out tent is warm and cozy.

Wednesday 8th May, 2019

 Wadi Rum to Aqaba

We’ve organized for Salman to pick us up at 7am so we’re up very early to pack and walk out into the desert to watch the sun rise. We climb up to the top of a sand dune to wait for the sun. As we look back at the camp, a caravan of camels passes below us. Oh, yes!


It’s freezing up here and we’re glad when the sun finally rises and we can head back for breakfast. You guessed it – pita bread, tomato, olives, fuul, cheese and boiled eggs.


The sky is especially clear today so it’s a nice drive to the Visitor Centre where we’ll catch a bus to Aqaba. But apparently the bus left at 630am but, of course, no-one bothered to tell us. And there are no more buses today and there are no taxis – ever. Mark asks a man leaving in a car if he can drive us to Aqaba and luckily he agrees for $40 – a good deal for him too.

The only issue is that he’s just as mad as Mohammed – spends most of the time ringing people on his mobile. Must be just calling everyone he knows!  We’re sick of these arse-holes!

We ask him to take us to Tana Bay which is where the best snorkeling is supposed to be. Snorkelling is one of the main reasons we’ve come to Aqaba after our amazing experience in the Red Sea in Egypt many years ago.

Aqaba is Jordan’s most important access to the sea and we see the city on our right as we head down the south coast. Our driver tells us that from here we can see three countries at the same time – Jordan, Israel and Egypt!

We’d booked a room yesterday on at Darna Village Resort for only $35. There seems to be a string of these ‘resorts’ along this road opposite the beach. Darna is a bit on the shabby side and our room is featureless but we do have a nice pool and pool area.

The temperature has climbed so we’re straight into the pool. Mark then walks down to check out the beach then we hire snorkeling gear from the Darna Dive section. Lunch first of chips and tuna salad then a quick nanna nap. We’ve been waiting for the breeze to die down and at three o’clock we set off for the beach. Not as spectacular as Egypt but we still experience the amazing underwater world that still blows me away.


At Darna we have another swim then dress up for a night in a posh hotel further down the coast. Darna is Arabic so no alcohol – goodbye!!

Outside we find a funny taxi driver called Mamoud who invites us to his house to break the fast (it’s Ramadan – remember) with his family. We really, really should do this but since we’re both drunks we want to get straight to Movenpick.

We organize for him to drive us to the airport in the morning as we’ve decided to catch a plane back up to Amman then cross into Israel tomorrow.


At Movenpick we’re in time for Happy Hour drinks so we order up big. We’re sitting outside on a second floor balcony overlooking the lovely hotel grounds and served by sweet waitresses – one from the Philippines, one from Thailand and one from Kenya. Mark has four beers and I have four Bacardi and cokes then we share a seafood platter. By now it’s very dark and we can see the lights of Egypt twinkling on the opposite shore. Sitting in the warm still night air, we really enjoy this place.


Now we catch another taxi back to Darna but head for a bar next door. It’s very Arabic looking and the beer is non-alcoholic so Mark tops it up with Bacardi. Flashing coloured lights and loud music must be an attempt to draw a crowd but we’re the only ones here. Ha ha – lucky for us!

Thursday 9th May, 2019

Aqaba to Amman to Jerusalem (Israel)

We deserve our hangovers but it was worth it! At 6.30am we meet Mamoud outside as arranged. He’s asleep in his taxi and says ‘you drive’ when we get in – ha ha – he’s been up partying with his family all night. He said he’ll go home to bed after he drops us off. We give him a bag of children’s clothes we’ve brought with us.

We’re off now to Aqaba Airport, known as King Hussein International Airport. Mamoud stops at a petrol station – not to get petrol but to buy us drinks, biscuits and apples – ‘you miss breakfast’, he says. Oh, how sweet! A guard stops at the airport gate and asks ‘where you going?’. Mamoud turns to us and says ‘where he think we going – swimming?’


While we wait for departure everyone stands at the windows to watch three bright red jets belonging to Royal Jordanian Airlines performing impressive manoeuvres then landing right in front of the terminal.

We take off at 8.40am for the short trip to Amman’s Queen Alia International Airport. We stop at Starbucks for coffee, a hot chocolate and a cheese cake then catch a taxi to the border – $60.

It seems to be in a busy village area and we really don’t know where to go. We ask a few people and eventually find the right window – we think. There isn’t any signage and no-one is inside. People say ‘you sit, you sit’. Next we’re sent to another window and then back to the original. Finally we’re put on a bus to drive us to the Israeli border across the King Hussein/Allenby Bridge.

After much research I found that this is the only border where you can cross from Amman to Jerusalem and back on your single entry Jordan visa.

Even though we’re technically in the West Bank here, it’s Israel controlling the border crossing. Uniformed men with guns protect the border but it doesn’t take long to receive our piece of paper which is the equivalent of having our passports stamped. This is a fairly new thing as before if you had an Israeli stamp in your passport you were refused entry into any Arab nation.

Back in the bus we’re driven somewhere else where there is more stamping before we find a mini-van to drive us to Jerusalem. So far Israel looks very much like Jordan – barren, dry and rocky – as we hoped and expected. Soon we see The Dead Sea on our left as it actually straddles the border of Israel and Jordan. We see goat herders and small basic settlements before reaching the outskirts of the city which sits picturesquely high up on a plateau in the Judean Mountains.

Jerusalem is the capital of modern day Israel and said to be the religious and historical epicenter of the world. The city is holy to Jews, Christians and Muslims but more about that later.


The van drops us all off but we have zero idea where we are. We decide to try to get a room at Abraham Hostel which has a big rap on the net. We catch a taxi which costs a fortune and I hate the area he drops us on sight. It seems to be in a business district with no character at all.  I also hate the look of Abraham Hostel but we go in anyway.

The foyer is buzzing with backpackers so things are looking up. But, bloody hell, they want $140AUD for a double room! We settle instead for a dorm room on the third floor. It only has four beds and we’re sharing with a European guy who can’t speak a word of English so we just smile and nod to each other.

On the first floor is the vast dining/chill-out/bar where we find a seat near a friendly Canadian girl called Sarah. She’s very smart and here on some sort of work/holiday thing – a good night.

Friday 10th May, 2019


While it’s been an experience staying here at Abraham’s we’re leaving this morning. First we have breakfast downstairs which is an all-you-can-eat buffet style.


I check out and find a great hotel very close to the Old City. So after a quick pack we find another expensive taxi to take us to the Addar Hotel. When the driver tells us what the price will be, I whinge, “but it’s just over there!” He laughs and says “how many days you stay in Jerusalem?” I say “One!”. He laughs again. Very funny – this place is super expensive!

We like the Addar Hotel which set in a quiet side road diagonally across from the gorgeous old American Colonial Hotel – our destination for tonight, for sure! The Addar is an Arab Hotel – the real thing and decorated with brass urns, arches, mosaic tiles, velvet lounges and a huge blue glass chandelier hanging from the vaulted ceiling in the foyer. It has just the right amount of shabbiness and we love it. Our room is big with a verandah and all the trappings for the same price as a bunk bed at Abraham’s!

A quick shower and change and we’re ready to take on the Old City. Our taxi driver had warned us not to go today which is the first Friday of Ramadan and it will be packed for some reason. We’re going anyway.

We walk along Nablus Road past lovely old buildings, a school and churches all behind high stone walls overhung with vines. Nearer the Old City we walk through a market then come out near the very impressive Damascus Gate.


There are seven gates in all but we keep walking to New Gate which is the main entrance to the Christian Quarter. By the way, the Old City is divided into four uneven quarters – the Muslim, Christian, Jewish and Armenian quarters which all flow into one another. We’ll be able to visit them all today because the entire Old City is only one kilometer square. We plan to do a general walk around today then come back to see things more in depth on Sunday.


Entering through North Gate we’re immediately transported back in time. The Old City remains as it was thousands of years ago and people still live and work here in these ancient buildings. It’s an exciting, exotic and spiritual world of narrow cobbled laneways. Thick stone walls and archways lead to dark alleyways lined by eateries and souks. We stop in a cave-like café for coffee and tea and love it here already.


But this is the Christian Quarter and the star is without question the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. We wind through narrow alleys to find the church fronted by a small square busy with tourists and pilgrims.


Inside, the church is a beautifully ornate and cavernous structure with many small chapels and intricate art work. The church dates back to at least the 4th century and houses the site where Jesus was crucified at Calvary, the tomb where he was buried and resurrected and the last four Stations of the Cross.


We light candles for Angie and for Grace who is very sick. I don’t know if there really is a presence here but I start to cry – takes me a while sitting outside to settle down. I don’t have a religious bone in my body but something unusual is happening here.


On the funny side, I’d read about this thing called ‘Jerusalem Syndrome’. This can apparently happen to some people who get totally carried away with the religious thing after visiting the Holy City. They can be found roaming the streets of Jerusalem wearing biblical robes, taking on a different name and refusing to leave the city. Mark thinks I’m starting to show the signs!!


Near Zion Gate is the Armenian Quarter which is the smallest quarter of the Old City. It’s the home to Christian Armenians who arrived in Jerusalem in the 4th century AD. We visit St. James Monastery and the Cathedral of St. James. The Jerusalem Armenians are known for their distinctive hand painted tiles and handmade ceramics and lots of small shops sell them – too hard to bring home, though.


From here we follow the signs to the Jewish Quarter. We come across the excavated ancient Roman remains including the Cardo, which would have been the colonnaded main street during Jesus’ lifetime. But of course the major attraction in this quarter is the Western Wall also known as the Wailing Wall. This is the last remaining part of the 2nd Holy Jewish Temple which was destroyed in 70AD.

The Western Wall opens up to a large plaza and Jews come from across the globe to worship here. We’re supposed to be able to place a prayer note with a personal message to God between the large stones of the Wall but it looks like only Jewish people are here so we stand back.


Traditionally, all Orthodox Jewish men wear black trousers and coats with a white shirt. They have short cropped hair except for long ringlets hanging down in front of each ear – very unsexy! Mark says eye glasses must also be part of the costume because they all wear them. As for the women, once they’re married, most cover their hair with a wig or scarf.


Within the Old City are the most important Jewish, Muslim and Christian religious sites in Israel but we can’t visit Islam’s most sacred site today. Only Muslims can visit the Dome of the Rock because of Ramadan. We can walk through the rest of the Muslim Quarter though and we find a cool, dark restaurant for a late lunch.


Later we wander around the Muslim area which suddenly fills with men returning from the Dome of the Rock. Thousands swarm through the tiny alleyways heading for Damascus Gate. We’re ready to leave as well so we join the mass.


But once outside we can’t get out of the area which has been roped off as Israeli police herd people into lines to wait for a continuous procession of buses. These will ferry passengers to other towns throughout the country and possibly back to Palestine.


We wait with the lines of people and we see a little girl of about three with hair growing all over her body – like a little monkey – heart breaking. Finally we get to the top of the queue and hightail it across the road and into the market.


We both have showers after this very sweaty day then dress for another ‘posh’ night. This is at the American Colony Hotel which was built in the 19th century on the ruins of an older Ottoman style building. The outdoor seating area is lovely with tables set in a leafy garden with candles and a fountain. But we want to visit the Cellar Bar and are lucky to grab the only table left.

The Cellar Bar is small and intimate with a Middle Eastern ambience. The bar is still floored with the same warm pink stone that’s been here for the past one hundred and thirty years. Mark orders tapas while we drink beers and margaritas. Soon an English couple asks if they can sit with us. They’re hilarious and we have a fun night together – best friends already. It’s a shame they won’t be here again tomorrow night as they’re moving on.

Saturday 11th May, 2019

Jerusalem to Masada to Jerusalem

Yesterday we’d booked a day trip to Masada, so we’re up early to have breakfast in the sunny dining room. This opens up onto a small garden where other guests are smoking – we’ll stay in here.

We start to walk to the pick-up place but realise that we won’t make it in time and grab a taxi. A crowd of people are milling around outside a big hotel where tourist buses pull in to pick up passengers. We soon end up on a coach with about twenty other people.

We head out of Jerusalem driving south through the Judean Desert. Arid mountains are on our right with the Dead Sea on our left the whole way. The Dead Sea is actually the lowest place on earth and the water so salty that nothing can live in it or even on its shores. We’ve never seen anything remotely like this before.

After a couple of hours we arrive at the foot of the UNESCO World Heritage site of Masada. The fortress sits high on a flat plateau next to the Dead Sea.


Off the bus we’re met by our guide, a young local woman who explains some of the history of Masada. It was built in 30 BC by the Roman King Herod. But in 68 BCE, there was a revolt against Rome and Masada was conquered by a group of Jewish zealots – Masada became their last stronghold. But more about this tragic story later.

There is a steep walking trail but most people including us, catch the cable car. We spend the next hour or so exploring the ruins and taking in the incredible views across the Dead Sea and the Judean Desert.


Under a sweltering sun, we visit the Roman bathhouse with its colourful mosaic floor, the western palace, store rooms and watch towers. Now our lovely guide tells us of the terrible final days of Masada. In 72 BCE the Romans besieged Masada by building a huge earthen ramp on its western side. The Jews living on Masada chose to commit suicide rather than end up as Roman slaves.


Down to the bottom in another squashy cable-car, we‘re back on the bus to stop at the Israeli oasis of Ein Gedi. This is not really our vision of an oasis! We pull into a crowded car park then cross into a sort of huge ticket office. From here we follow a path to end up at the most pathetic ‘oasis’ you could imagine – wtf? A few families are splashing around in a puddle then we walk to a ‘waterfall’ (it’s tiny) where we cool off but it’s pretty funny!


Off again on the bus we head towards Jerusalem. We’re sitting behind a couple of Turkish guys – one has been annoying everyone the whole trip – always butting into the guide’s talk without a clue that her body language is saying ‘shut the fuck up!”

Now on the bus, as we follow the shore of the Dead Sea, he literally takes hundreds and hundreds of photos – clicking incessantly. But the scenery is the same the entire way, you freak – dry, barren, treeless – dead! We imagine his friends back home will be heading for the hills if he invites them over for a slide-night – ‘sorry, busy!’ – ha, ha.


Finally our bus stops at a Dead Sea Resort. This has a sort of family café/restaurant/swimming pool feel but we by-pass all this and head straight for the water.

And, true to form, we see people floating on their backs and others covered in black mud. We want to do it all – a bucket list thing!! One of the good things about swimming in the Dead Sea is that there aren’t any sharks – actually there aren’t any fish at all, absolutely nothing can live in here – ‘dead’, get it?

So down on the shore, we find a place that isn’t too crowded and wobble our way into the sea. This isn’t easy because the sea floor is covered with not only sticky black mud but rocks, rocks and more rocks.

The Dead Sea rules include:-

  • Do not, I repeat, do not get any water in your eyes. Regular sea water burns enough and this is ten times worse.
  • Do not shave for a couple of days before your visit. If you do, it will burn.
  • Wear an old bathing suit as the mud and salt water combination can be a bit rough on the fabric.
  • Bring some reading material if you want a cool photo
  • Consider wearing water shoes or thongs in the water; the rocks and crystallized salt can be hard on the feet.
  • Don’t forget to lather yourself with handfuls of thick, black mud.

So okay we obey it all!


It really is the weirdest feeling floating on my back reading a magazine. Mark does the same then I smother myself with the black mineral-rich mud which supposedly has near-magical healing properties. Hope so!

And we definitely make sure we don’t get any water in our eyes but finish with a wash under a fresh water shower. Everyone has to line up but then we all let people in who haven’t obeyed the rules and who are blindly heading for the shower with arms out-stretched – mostly Asians who are laughing their heads off.  So funny!


Heading back up to the Resort, we join the crowds in the big swimming pool then shower before meeting our bus driver in the car park.

Back in Jerusalem we walk through the market to our hotel. The market is lively with carts laden with bread rolls and vendors shouting out to customers to come and buy. After showers we have a lovely night doing a sort of posh hotel crawl of our area ending up at our favourite American Colony.

Sunday 12th May, 2019


We’ve decided to spend another day in Jerusalem but to also find a guesthouse in the Old City. Breakfast is in the sunny dining room again then we catch a taxi to New Gate. We drag our wheeled backpacks over the cobblestones to our little guesthouse sitting at the top of a steep staircase. The shabby lounge area is vast with a tall ceiling and arched coloured glass windows at either end. The building is very old with lovely features but has been left to rundown. We like it – the real deal!

Our room and bathroom are similarly shabby but we have two tall arched windows overlooking the Square and the Citadel – a million dollar view for a pittance!


We set off through the Armenian Quarter passing nuns, monks and friars in their habits to reach Zion Gate (also called David’s Gate). In 1948, during the Arab-Israeli War, this area saw severe fighting when Israeli soldiers tried to breach the walls when the Jewish Quarter was under siege by Palestinian Arab forces. The gate’s exterior is pockmarked with bullet holes from that time. Today hundreds of Israeli soldiers, male and female, are milling around here, all carrying assault rifles, but they’re laughing and chatting in groups so no worries for us.

This place has so much history – besides the biblical stuff and the Arab-Israeli War, this area became famous as a gathering place of lepers in the 19th century.
And then of course there’s Mount Zion itself

And then of course there’s Mount Zion itself. Winding our way through paved alleyways lined with tall stone walls we reach The Cenaculum better known as The Room of the Last Supper. This is simple but very beautiful with carved columns, chandeliers and stained glass windows.

Below the Last Supper Room the tomb of King David sacred to the Jews. Mark has to wear a kippah (skull cap) and I’m given a scarf to cover my head. Later we climb the stairs to the roof for good views of Mount Zion and The Old City. Opposite we see the Mount of Olives and the Garden of Gethsemane which is where Jesus went after The Last Supper. It’s where he was caught, handed over to the Romans and sentenced to die on the cross.


Heading back into the Old City we have lunch in a pleasant square in the Jewish Quarter then shop in the Arab Quarter souk. Mark buys a herbal concoction meant to cure diabetes and made up by a local man. We then buy fresh orange juice made on the spot – find them everywhere here. We could spend days just wandering these tunnels and alleyways.


Back in the Christian Quarter we find the monastery where Graz lived and worked back in the nineties – we send him a photo. Now we follow the directions in the Lonely Planet to follow the Via Dolorosa or the Way of Suffering. This is the path that Jesus walked, carrying his cross, on the way to his crucifixion.

The Via Dolorosa is just under one kilometer long on a winding up and down path with fourteen stations on the way.

These Stations of the Cross signify events that happened on the way.

1st Station: Jesus is condemned to death.

2nd Station: Jesus accepts the cross.

3rd Station: Jesus falls the first time.

4th Station: Jesus meets His mother.

5th Station: Simon of Cyrene helps Jesus carry His cross.

6th Station: Veronica wipes the face of Jesus.

7th Station: Jesus falls the second time.

8th Station: Jesus meets the women of Jerusalem

9th Station: Jesus falls a third time.

10th Station: Jesus is stripped of His clothes.

11th Station: Jesus is crucified.

12th Station: Jesus dies on the cross.

13th Station: The body of Jesus is taken down from the cross.

14th Station: Jesus is laid in the tomb.

A lot of other people are doing the same thing, some in groups singing or chanting and all stopping at each station. Exciting and moving at the same time.

Returning to our guesthouse is easy – we’re right here! We shower to cool down then have a read and nap before heading out for the night. We want to check out Downtown and the easiest way is by the light rail. This is a short, but uphill, walk from New Gate and we’re soon leaving the old area and into modern Jerusalem.


Here we wander around the Mahana Yemuda Market then stop for tapas and drinks in a few trendy bars.

Monday 13th May, 2019

Jerusalem to Nazareth

Our plan today is to visit more of the Old City then catch a bus to Nazareth this afternoon. We want to see the Temple Mount before all the crowds arrive so we set off early.

First we stop at the Western Wall. This is the most sacred site in the world for Jewish people and thousands of pilgrims visit the Wall every year to pray. The prayers are either spoken or written on pieces of paper and wedged into the cracks between the stones.

The Wall was built by King Herod in 20BCE as an expansion of the Second Temple. But then the Temple was destroyed by the Romans fifty years later and now only the wall remains.

To get to Temple Mount we pass through Mughrabi Gate near the Western Wall. There are rules; dressed modestly, no weapons, no sacred Jewish objects and show our passports. The line is long and we’re glad we came early.

Inside is a vast peaceful space with lots of trees, arches, fountains and the imposing Dome of the Rock. We end up with a guide who explains it all – The Temple Mount is a holy site for Jewish, Christian and Muslim people. After Mecca and Medina, it’s the third holiest site for Muslims where the Prophet Mohammed made his “Night Journey” to the throne of God. When the Muslims conquered Jerusalem in the seventh century, they built the Dome of the Rock exactly on the spot where the Jewish First and Second Temples existed. It’s said to be the most fought over piece of land on earth.


The golden dome can be seen all over Jerusalem and is much bigger than expected when we get up close. The exterior is covered with blue tiles with Quranic verses written all around it. Non-Muslims aren’t allowed inside so we don’t get to see the actual rock.


Next we visit the Al-Aqsa Mosque but get bored so we pay off our guide and head back into the Old City. Before we leave I have to visit the Church of the Holy Sepulchre just one more time to light candles for Angie – Mark really is starting to think I’ve got Jerusalem Syndrome! The truth is, it’s all been fabulous historically but I still don’t get the religious thing. I wish I did – for Ange.


This morning we’d noticed a cute French-looking restaurant in an alleyway near our guesthouse so we head here for lunch. This is The Versevage, all dark wood with stone floors and tall iron and glass doors. We sit in the little courtyard and order a cappuccino for Mark and a tea for me. Mark also has an avocado and mint drink and we share a very fancy chocolate and cream dessert.


Back at our guesthouse we pack then find a taxi to take us to the bus station. The direct bus to Nazareth doesn’t leave for ages so we decide to catch a bus to Haifa on the coast and then pick up another bus to Nazareth from there. We may as well see some of the countryside rather than sit here doing nothing.

The two hour trip passes through the Israeli countryside with small towns in the distance. We don’t go through Tel Aviv but we can see its tall buildings way off to our left. For the last hour we travel along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea then reach Haifa about four o’clock. At the bus station we need to catch a smaller bus to yet another bus station where we have time to buy a snack of chips and coke.

Haifa is built on the slopes of Mount Carmel so it’s a very hilly city. On our third bus today, we drive across the Carmel mountain range and arrive in Nazareth forty minutes later.

The bus drops us off on the side of a hill near the Old City which is where we booked a guesthouse online this morning. Nazareth’s Old City is no different to Jerusalem’s Old city – lots of narrow winding alleyways, cobbled or paved streets and stone buildings. It seems like a place where the clock stopped a few centuries ago. It’s an intriguing maze of pointed arches, ivy covered walls, old men smoking cigarettes, fragrant coffee houses and where the call to prayer echoes from the nearby White Mosque.

It takes a while but Mark eventually finds our guesthouse, The Vitrage, a yellow painted building with the exterior walls decorated with all sorts of kitsch like garden gnomes and Santa hats.

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Inside is much the same, a homey jumble of bits and pieces with a pond in the centre. A small waterfall spills into another pool with ceramic frogs and other animals perched on the rocks – a handyman’s job if we’ve ever seen one!

The friendly owner shows us around the building which is a rabbit warren of stairways and hallways. Our room is clean and okay for one night. We rest for a while then set off for a night out in Nazareth – never thought I’d say that.

We wander around the Old City but head for Mary’s Well where we’ll supposedly find cafes and bars. We do. A string of restaurants are all vying for business. All have tables and chairs outside and under the trees opposite. It’s really lovely sitting out here in the warm night air.

Tuesday 14th May, 2019


Breakfast is served in the tiny kitchen/dining room – all very kitsch like the rest of the place. And breakfast is the same as everywhere else – is this what the locals eat?

Anyway, we’d read that the Fauzi Azur Inn runs free walking tours every morning so we set out to find it. This is part of the Abraham Hotel chain in Israel but whereas the hotel in Jerusalem was in a featureless block, the Fauzi occupies a two hundred year old Arab mansion.

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Inside, the courtyard is an oasis of trees, hanging plants, wicker chairs and water fountains. A handsome young guy greets us and the two other people on the tour. We follow him upstairs to a beautiful lounge area with a soaring ceiling intricately moulded and painted. Arched stained glass windows, a marble floor and antique furniture add to the elegance. We wish we could stay here tonight but we’ve already booked a hotel online.

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Our guide explains the history of Fauzi house then takes us out into the cobbled streets of the Old City. We visit other old Ottoman-era mansions, some left abandoned, a market, a coffee house where old men are playing a card game and drinking coffee. The room is cave-like with stone walls and honestly the biggest chandelier we’ve ever seen.

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We explore the narrow alleyways lined with solid limestone walls then it’s time to check out of the Vitrage and book into the Antique Guesthouse. This sits on a bend in a twisty laneway with a welcoming entrance of plants and flowers. This is another cute place full of Middle Eastern atmosphere – we’ve picked well again thanks to being able to see photos on Tripadvisor. After settling in, we head off to explore the sights of Nazareth.


This is where Jesus spent his childhood – Jesus of Nazareth, get it. Today Nazareth is the largest Arab town in Israel, with a mixed population of Christian and Muslim Arabs. It’s a city of churches and a place of pilgrimage for the world’s Christians, who believe it to be the site of the Annunciation – when the Archangel Gabriel announced the birth of Jesus to the Virgin Mary. (Google)

But there are two churches here who claim to be built on the spot of the Annunciation. One is St. Gabriel’s Church (also known as the Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation). It was built over the village spring, where the Greek Orthodox say was where the Archangel Gabriel first appeared to Mary. We look down into a dark stonewalled well to see the spring below. Some people are filling water bottles from a tap fed by the spring. In the upper church are lovely frescoes and we light candles for our darlings here and gone.


In the park outside we find Mary’s Well then head for the other Church of the Annunciation. In the floor is a large octagonal opening with a view of the lower level and the Grotto of the Annunciation. This church is really unappealing – I can’t like it.

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Next door to the Church of the Annunciation, within the same compound, is St. Joseph’s Church which stands on the site where Joseph once had his carpentry workshop.

So now we’re ‘churched’ out and head up the hill to the Shuk (market). After wandering around for a while we stop at a big restaurant for lunch but it’s soon invaded by a noisy group of pilgrims (everywhere on the Jesus trail) and leave to eat at a small place at the bottom of the hill near the fountain.

A rest in our cute stone-walled room then about six o’clock we set off in search of the Alreda Restaurant. We find it near the Greek Orthodox Annunciation Church and located in an aristocratic Palestinian family house built over 200 years ago during the Ottoman empire.


I’d heard about this place and it’s even better than expected. With stone exterior walls and old brass coated arched doors and windows we love it already. Inside is one open space with a pink stone floor, natural coloured walls, an old timber bar and tables and chairs all in wood plus stacks of atmosphere – I take dozens of photos for inspiration.


The restaurant is said to be the best in Nazareth serving traditional Nazarene recipes with a Mediterranean twist. We order small plates to share while being serenaded by Egyptian music playing in the background. At first we’re the only ones here but then a large dinner crowd arrives chatting loudly in Arabic and Hebrew.

Love, love this place but decide to move on to one of the bars we’d found yesterday. Another great night.

Wednesday 15th May, 2019

Nazareth to Bethlehem (Palestine)

Breakfast is help yourself in the dark downstairs dining room full of old world charm. The bus to Jerusalem is leaving in half an hour so, under sunny skies once again, we drag our packs down the hill to the main street. We wait for nearly an hour after it’s due and, seeing that this is the first stop, we realise that it isn’t coming.


One strange thing about Nazareth is that it’s hard to get here and get away even though it’s high up on the Jesus Trail. I guess most people come here on tours rather than relying on public transport like us.

Now with our bus not turning up, the only other option is to hire a driver. We ask at a couple of places but they want crazy prices.

Then suddenly Mark sees our bus pulling up on the opposite side of the road. We’re so relieved and really enjoy the trip back to Jerusalem which is a direct route today meaning we get to see a different part of the country.

Back in Jerusalem we catch a taxi to the Arab bus station over near Damascus Gate where the buses to Palestine come and go. We’re off to Bethlehem for the night!

Even though Bethlehem is only twelve kilometres from Jerusalem it’s part of the West Bank so Israeli transport is banned from entering. Only certain Arab bus lines can be used.

We pay only 5ILS on the blue 21 bus which takes us on a route through nearby Beit Jalla. As we near Palestine we see the huge concrete wall that cuts off Jerusalem from the West Bank. The Israeli government officially refers to it as a “safety fence” to keep out terrorists while the Arabic name for it is the “apartheid wall”.

Even though I read up before coming to Israel, I still only have a minute understanding of the very complex relationship Israel has with its Palestinian neighbours in the West Bank and Gaza Strip. Who’s right and who’s wrong??/ I’m totally confused!

There is even a border crossing where we have to show our passports.

Finally through, we’re on our way to Bethlehem. The bus drops us off at the top of a ridge where we catch a taxi to take us into the old city.


We wind down through narrow streets into the Old City to find that the guesthouse we’d booked this morning is in Star Street just a few steps from Manger Square. This is one of the top attractions in Bethlehem being flanked by two other major attractions – the Church of St Catherine and the Church of Nativity – talk about that later.


Our guesthouse is called Dar al Majus and entered off the street by a tall metal door. The guesthouse is inside a historical hosh, which is a compound of buildings surrounding a small courtyard. It’s a little oasis run by a friendly family. They don’t speak English but we manage to communicate anyway. Our room is located in the historical part of the building and overlooks the street and market stalls opposite. It’s huuuuge with our own bathroom, a queen bed, a single bed and a chill out area near the windows complete with floor cushions. But best of all is the architecture – stone walls, arched ceilings and rounded windows. It’s the best place we’ve stayed in this trip – plus it’s cheap!


Now we’re ready to take on more Jesus sights. Not bad going for a couple of atheists! It’s all about history anyway and visiting places we’ve heard about since our days at Sunday School. So the first stop is the Church of the Nativity.


Everyone associates Bethlehem with the story of the nativity; Mary and Joseph travelling on a donkey from Nazareth to Bethlehem for a census where Jesus Christ was born in a manger. The Church of the Nativity has been built on the spot where all this happened. It is one of the oldest working churches in existence today.

We enter through the Door of Humility, a small rectangular entrance that dates to the Ottoman period. The doorway was minimized to prevent Ottoman raiders from entering on horseback and pillaging the church. The wide nave is held up by forty four pink limestone collumns covered with paintings of Mary and Christ. On cue, a black robed priest with a long white beard crosses in front of the elaborate altar.

We’re just about to enter the doorway to the stairs leading down to the Grotto of the Nativity when a group of pilgrims beat us to it. We leave them to it.  Back out in Manger Square we head off into the maze of cobbled laneways of the Old City. They say you can get lost here and we do. At one stage we hit a dead-end at a family home where three young children come out to talk to us. They sing ‘Johnny Johnny’ for us, the same song that Abi and Elkie sing at home.


We love the traditional architecture of the old city with its curvy stone streets, sometimes topped by rocky arches, and domed houses with beautifully ornamented doors and windows.  We come across an interesting fresh food market where local Arab ladies shop for fruit and vegetables. We feel like we’ve stepped back in time a thousand years.


On dark we find that Manger Square looks especially beautiful with the Church of the Nativity all lit up as well as the striking Mosque of Omar, which looks a bit tacky really, covered in strings of fairy lights.


We sit in the crowded Peace Centre Restaurant – crowded because this is still Ramadan and now it’s time for the Muslim population to come out to play – and eat of course. Whole extended families are here ordering mountains of food and having a roar of a time.

After we eat we move on to the next street where we find a Bedouin bar – we’re the only ones here because I guess Muslim people and devout Christians don’t drink.


Next is a big hotel which is packed with people eating and drinking so we sit ourselves up at the bar for some excellent people watching.

Thursday 16th May, 2019

 Bethlehem to Jerusalem to Madaba (Jordan)

We don’t sleep in because we need to get back to Jordan today which means crossing the border. This could be easy or it could take hours so we want to give ourselves plenty of time. Our lovely hosts have set up breakfast for us in the underground dining room. In fact their whole house is underground – awesome!


We do the reverse of yesterday, getting a taxi to the top of the hill then wait for the Jerusalem bus to arrive. As we cross the checkpoint, Israeli soldiers climb on board to look at everyone’s passports. They stay on the bus the whole way. Back in Jerusalem we walk to a mini bus depot to get a lift to the Jordan/Israel border. This takes no time at all and we’re soon speeding towards Madaba in a taxi.

From the Dead Sea at 400 metres below sea level, we wind our way up and up to Mount Nebo at 820 metres above sea level. Mount Nebo is the site where the Old Testament says Moses saw the Promised Land. What he would see today is Jericho, Bethlehem, the hills of Jerusalem, the Jordan River valley and the Dead Sea. Maybe it wasn’t so ‘dead’ in those days because the Promised Land was also called The Land of Milk and Honey. Talk about climate change!


We’re staying at Hotel Saint John which is a featureless place but the only one really close to the main attractions. We wander around the shopping area and find some interesting cafes and restaurants. We do have an afternoon nap before heading for Haret Jdoudna.

This very atmospheric restaurant is set in a restored Ottoman house with a leafy courtyard in the centre. Like our experience in Bethlehem last night, the place is packed to the rafters and we finally give up waiting to be served.

Instead we head up to the roof top restaurant at our hotel. This has lovely views of this ancient city and much nicer to be in the cool night air anyway. Young people are up here smoking sheeshas but we stick to our alcohol.


Friday 17th May, 2019

Madaba to Amman to Dubai

We’re not leaving Madaba until five o’clock this afternoon so we have all day to check it out. It seems that everything we want to see will be in walking distance.

After breakfast on the roof, we walk up to Church of the Beheading of John the Baptist – sounds gruesome. Inside is a typical church but it’s the vault beneath the church that we’re here to see. Down a circular stone staircase we find the Acropolis Museum with a well dating back 3000 years – it’s still operational.


By now Mark is becoming totally Christianed/churched out and I’m over it as well. But we do have one more to go. This is St George’s Church at the bottom of the hill. The church is home to the famous (never heard of it) Madaba Mosaic Map which is the oldest known map of the Holy Land – 6th century! It’s made up of more than a million pieces of coloured stone. Very impressive but we hightail it out of there. No more churches please!


So now we wander around the shops and cafes but most are shut. Ramadan remember – but it’s also Friday so even less chance of anything being open in this mainly Muslim town.  We do find a few souvenir shops and buy an expensive hand-painted plate to remember this City of Mosaics. At another souvenir shop we buy Arab versions of Ken and Barbie for the dollies – funny.

Later we buy a small carpet from a Christian man who can open his shop today. And we’re lucky to find a tiny cave-like restaurant open as well. Lunch is fresh fruit juices, pitta bread and a vegetable hot pot.


We spend the rest of the afternoon getting ready for home then catch a taxi to the airport at 5pm.

Saturday 18th May, 2019

Dubai to Sydney

We fly out at 10 o’clock arriving in Dubai at 2am. The problem is, this is Al Maktoum International, Dubai’s second International airport and 65kilometres from Dubai International Airport where our Sydney flight will leave. We’re just lucky that we have plenty of time to get there and extra lucky that a bus is ready to leave right now. Things always work out.

At 9.45am we take off for the fourteen hour flight.

Sunday 19th May, 2019


Land in Sydney at 7.30 in the morning. A train home to our darlings



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New Zealand – North Island 2020



                                                    Our Itinerary

13/02/2020    Thurs Newcastle 7.30pm to Auckland 12.25 am Fri  
14/02/2020    Fri Auckland to Waiheke Island to Auckland  
15/02/2020    Sat Auckland to Rotarua  
16/02/2020    Sun Rotarua to Auckland  
17/02/2020    Mon Auckland 6.15am to Sydney 8am  

Thursday 13th February, 2020

 Newcastle to Auckland

We both work today, me till noon and Mark till 3.30pm. We drive our car to Newcastle West leaving it parked in the street near the TAFE. From here we drag our packs to Hunter Street to wait for the bus to Newcastle Airport. It’s a different viewpoint sitting high up in the bus on this familiar route.

After booking in we buy horrible and expensive airport chicken then stop to chat to Jeff Leonard who is on his way home to the Gold Coast.

Our Virgin flight leaves on time at 7.30pm. We only paid $215 each for this direct flight to Auckland so we’re surprised to be served a full meal on this budget airline. Not long after takeoff, the sun sets, glowing a golden red as it dips behind the clouds – beautiful.


Luckily the plane is only about half full so we have three seats each. And because the flight is less than two hours, I make the most of the space straight away. I try to sleep but it doesn’t happen. Anyway it’s good to lie down the whole way.

We can finally see the lights of Auckland below us, landing at 12.30 am on Friday morning. Surprisingly the airport is full as other planes must have landed around the same time. Through immigration and customs, we line up for a taxi. Our driver is a Middle Eastern man who must have farted all the way in from the city so the inside of the taxi stinks like a toilet – welcome to New Zealand!

Anyway, we fly along the freeway into the city where we can see the Sky Tower all lit up in gorgeous rainbow colours. It seems that our guesthouse is not far from it. We pull up at Frienz Backpackers in Victoria Street right in the city centre. The owners had sent us an email telling us how to get in as the desk would be closed at this late/early hour.

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No trouble getting in and finding our room on the fourth floor – there’s a lift fortunately. Our room is basic and shabby but ok. The bathrooms are shared and around a few bends in the corridor – a bit of a rabbit-warren as lots of these places are. It just adds to the appeal for us.

Straight to sleep.

Friday 14th February, 2020

Auckland to Waiheke Island to Auckland

Mark doesn’t sleep well in a different bed and I’m tired as well so we don’t get up till nine o’clock. We ring Lauren and the Dollies as they’re two hours behind and wouldn’t have left for school. After showers we check in at the desk on the first floor where there is also a chill-out area where young travellers are hanging out on their phones.

The first thing we want to do is hire a car for tomorrow and Sunday. The guy at the desk tells us of a travel agent they use in the city. Just walk down the hill to Queen Street which is just two short blocks away. Queen Street is Auckland’s major commercial thoroughfare running almost three kilometres south from Queens Wharf on the waterfront.

The travel agent is off a small side street, but when we ask about hire cars we’re told that there aren’t any. They’d apparently tried other places but they were all out – ‘it’s busy here on the weekends’. What the fuuuuuuuuck?

Ok, don’t panic just yet. What about buses to Rotarua? She said she’d see if there were any seats left? I’m just about to explode (quietly) but Mark says ‘let’s just go and have breakfast and ring around.’

So we do. We walk to the end of Queen Street till we come to the harbour. Lots of construction down here and we can’t find a café and I’m getting more cheesed off by the minute. Finally we see the lovely old port building right on the ferry wharf and where we find a nice café to sit down and sort things out. Mark makes a phone call and finds a car we can pick up in the morning. So the silly bitch at the travel agent was only talking about the car hire places they use – she could have told us!


Anyway, all good thanks to Mark’s calm nature and we enjoy a coffee and a hot chocolate while we wait for our 11.30am ferry to Waiheke Island – $45 each return (this is not Asia!). Hundreds are lining up and we wonder if we’ll get a seat. No worries and we easily find window seats inside.

The forty minute trip is lovely. We leave the Downtown Ferry Wharf then head out into the Hauraki Gulf cruising past the coastline and the small islands of Rangitoto, Motuihe and Motutapu. It’s nice to have a different view of the city and especially nice to be out on the water on this hot sunny day.


Waiheke’s ferry terminal is at pretty Matiatia Bay at the western end of the island. As we disembark we see ducks paddling on the shore – yes, very pretty here. We thought we might hire a motor bike but it looks like it’s just pushbikes or electric bikes and anyway the island is much bigger, and hillier, than we expected.

Waiheke Island is actually the second-largest island in the Hauraki Gulf with the biggest population with 9,250 permanent residents – another estimated 3,400 have second or holiday homes on the island. Apparently it’s a playground for the rich and famous – well, not quite but it does seem to be fairly upmarket.

From the ferry wharf we catch a bus to the beachy village of Oneroa which is sort of the capital. This is lively with fashion boutiques, cafes, art galleries and designer shops. Day trippers and locals fill the street creating a happy holiday feel. We can see why this island is so popular.

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Lunch is at the lovely Oyster Inn, with its colonial/tropical feel – gabled roof, wide verandahs, louvred shutters, swirling ceiling fans and tall palm trees. We take in the great seaviews on the restaurant verandah while we order a beer for Mark and a champagne for me – it is Valentines Day after all. And being on an island, we must have seafood for lunch so Mark has fish, salad and chips while I have calamari and salad.


Now we head back to the bus stop to catch a bus going who knows where. The island is only twenty kilometres long so we can’t get too lost. I sit next to a friendly lady from Wellington who has a holiday house here and a house in Auckland as well – yes, a wealthy person’s island. She tells us where to get off further down the hill but Mark has a map and we continue on. We get off at an intersection where we walk a long way in the sun to find one of the many vineyards around here.

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Now I hate wine, but visiting a vineyard is what everyone has to do on Waiheke. I don’t know the name of it but it has an open sided restaurant and bar – all very chic. We choose a wine tasting package with two whites and two reds. I hate them all so Mark has most of it.

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Back out on the road we wait for another bus to take us back to the ferry wharf. The scenery is very picturesque the whole way with a blend of vineyards, olive groves, beaches, farmland and forests.